Mazda Long Life Hypoid Gear Oil SG1

danbfree said:
The original SG-1 is actually 75w-85, otherwise 75w-90 is indeed totally fine as a weight, but it does needs to be both GL4 AND specifically have the right additives for hypoid gears, not random manual transmission fluid. Sorry, not trying to be a smart-Alec, but that point seems to keep being missed.
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Don't Subaru's differentials have hypoid gears? :unsure:

Subaru's manual transmissions are combined with a hypoid gear differential, so therefore the Motul gear 300 will have the right additives for hypoid gears :)

Maybe Liqui-Moly #20012 might work. It's advertised as GL4+ GL4/GL5, so it should also be good for this application.

If it is a hypoid differential that is not combined with any transmission, then why does it need GL4 and not GL5? What softer metals are used in a diff? They're usually used for synchronizers in manual transmissions, but I didn't know they'd be in a diff, too.

Ask Redline what they would suggest to use here. Their customer service is very good.

Honestly, I don't think the Mazda SG1 is that special or that you can't just use 75w90 GL5 from Walmart.

If you're really convinced the Mazda SG1 is something special, buy a quart and have a VOA done on it ;)
 
Greasymechtech said:
The, its needs to be only GL4 for diff/xfercase, is bull produced fertilizer.

Dropping from a 80w90 to a 75w85 is simply for MPG and not all that critical.

The xfer case isn't going to care whether its GL4 or GL5, and I would definitely use any random GL4 MT fluid without worry or any locally available GL5 too. There are plenty of 75w85 and 75w90 GL4 and/or GL5 gear oils.

I wouldn't use a GL4 in a rear differential. Dropping from a GL5 to a GL4 in the rear differential is a bit worrying. But, part time wimpy AWD systems don't send too much power back there for much time. So, its hopefully a lightly loaded at most, non stressed differential, and I'd wager Mazda is gambling with the typical US consumer and their warranty. Who cares about the longevity of a differential!!!!!
I would just use any 75w90 GL5 gear oil, preferably without LS additive, in the rear diff. There are GL5 75w85's if you want the MPG.

I prefer the 90 grade protection. If it were mine, I'd use Motul Gear300, Redline NS, Delvac1, or any equivalent Mack GO-Jplus 75w90.
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Gl4+ (GL4/5) is fine but they do use the softer metals and the GL5 only is corrosive to those softer metals and that is why they call for GL4 with hypoid additive pack. When you can find the Royal Purple for $14 a qt that meets these specs and will fill both the transfer case and rear diff there is no excuse, period, to not use the right stuff. This not like trying to argue you have to use Mazda brand motor oil, so it is irresponsible, reckless and dumb to even argue otherwise... On top of that, if you knew that starting with the '21 Mazda 3 AWD Turbo, the rear diff is in use constantly. There have been a lot of complaints of rear diff whine and flat out failures in our '21+ Mazda 3 AWD Turbo community, you have to be an idiot to try using the wrong **** and expect to get your rear diff replaced under warranty. I'm done arguing with nonsense, I'm out of here.
 
slacktide_bitog said:
Don't Subaru's differentials have hypoid gears? :unsure:

Subaru's manual transmissions are combined with a hypoid gear differential, so therefore the Motul gear 300 will have the right additives for hypoid gears :)

Maybe Liqui-Moly #20012 might work. It's advertised as GL4+ GL4/GL5, so it should also be good for this application.

If it is a hypoid differential that is not combined with any transmission, then why does it need GL4 and not GL5? What softer metals are used in a diff? They're usually used for synchronizers in manual transmissions, but I didn't know they'd be in a diff, too.

Ask Redline what they would suggest to use here. Their customer service is very good.

Honestly, I don't think the Mazda SG1 is that special or that you can't just use 75w90 GL5 from Walmart.

If you're really convinced the Mazda SG1 is something special, buy a quart and have a VOA done on it ;)
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Yes, as long as it's GL4 soft metal safe and has the hypoid add pack then yeah, I'm sure there are some good alternatives out there. And yes, normally hypoid oil is GL5, it's definitely a weird exception on what Mazda uses. The Royal Purple has been amazing for me and is only $14, I don't get all the skepticism, honestly.
 
GL4+ is a marketing term and isn't defined.

There is no such thing as "the right stuff". Wasn't that a movie?

Mazda switches from a 80w90 GL5 to a 75w85 GL4 with no mechanical or manufacturing changes and its the end of the world for some.

Failures on any forum haven't been proven to be caused by "the wrong ****". If there are failures, they need to be analyzed as to the cause. I have worked in a gear failure analysis lab so I have just a little more experience then idiots preaching on Mazda forums. Either the gear oil isn't protecting well enough and owners need to go UP the grade or GL scale, and not down like what Mazda did, or Mazda simply used an undersized or poorly manufactured diff/suppliers. You have to be an idiot to trust an automaker and their cost accountants, along with their ESG recommendations...... overly thin with lesser additives.
 
Greasymechtech said:
GL4+ is a marketing term and isn't defined.

There is no such thing as "the right stuff". Wasn't that a movie?

Mazda switches from a 80w90 GL5 to a 75w85 GL4 with no mechanical or manufacturing changes and its the end of the world for some.

Failures on any forum haven't been proven to be caused by "the wrong ****". If there are failures, they need to be analyzed as to the cause. I have worked in a gear failure analysis lab so I have just a little more experience then idiots preaching on Mazda forums. Either the gear oil isn't protecting well enough and owners need to go UP the grade or GL scale, and not down like what Mazda did, or Mazda simply used an undersized or poorly manufactured diff/suppliers. You have to be an idiot to trust an automaker and their cost accountants, along with their ESG recommendations...... overly thin with lesser additives.
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Yet you conveniently ignore the fact that GL5 additives are corrosive to the metals that call for GL4 to be used, and Idemitsu is not some small supplier, they make almost all Japanese car brand fluid. But GL4+ is not just a marketing term, it literally means that it meets GL5 retirements while also being SAFE to use with GL4 spec'd gears. Again, there is more nuance to this whole thing then you ever care to admit, I'm not gonna argue with just another confidently wrong internet rando know it all they can't admit that in fact they DON'T know it all.
 
Great thread, I've been thinking about this lately as our 2018 CX-9 is sitting at 58,000 miles and I'm looking to do these services soon. From what I'm gathering here looks like I'll be going with RP Max gear 75w90 🍻
 
pbm said:
I also used RP Max Gear 75w90 in the rear differential of my daughter's CX-30 and it seems to be working fine.
When I went to change the transfer case fluid in the front end it had a different fill plug than shown on a Youtube
video for the CX-5 (there was no YT on the CX-30 yet). The CX-5 had a big bolt type plug (24mm IIRC)...the CX-30 seems to have a smaller plug which uses a hex key to open. The problem I found is that the plug seems to be blocked from removal by the transaxle mount. I'm now wondering if I put it on ramps (rather than on jackstands with the wheels hanging) will it enable the plug to clear the mount?
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No, you are correct. For non-turbo Mazda 3 (and likely CX-30), the transfer case plug is blocked. In order to access, you need to drop the front end. I was going to have my mechanic do this on my non-turbo 2021 Mazda 3, and he said it was about a 8 hour job to do after they realized the plug was inaccessible. Mazda says only change if it gets submerged in water. Normally, I would change it every 50k miles, but in this particular case, it's going to be fluid from the factory forever. In the turbo Mazda 3, the transfer case plug is easily accessible.
 
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Lwnmwrboy5 said:
No, you are correct. For non-turbo Mazda 3 (and likely CX-30), the transfer case plug is blocked. In order to access, you need to drop the front end. I was going to have my mechanic do this on my non-turbo 2021 Mazda 3, and he said it was about a 8 hour job to do after they realized the plug was inaccessible. Mazda says only change if it gets submerged in water. Normally, I would change it every 50k miles, but in this particular case, it's going to be fluid from the factory forever. In the turbo Mazda 3, the transfer case plug is easily accessible.
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Yes...a few weeks ago I got a chance to put the CX-30 up on a lift and remove the bolt holding that bracket (with a twist jack under it for support in case it dropped). I couldn't get the bracket to move at all so I buttoned everything back up and made the same decision as you (factory fluid forever) unless I learn later that the dealer has a way of shooting the gear oil in through the drain plug. I'd want to see it done rather than take their word for obvious reasons.

I'm disappointed in Mazda for making this maintenance item non maintainable. I'm also disappointed that they're telling us we have to put up with the ridiculous "Battery Low...Start Vehicle" warning as mentioned in a recent thread I started. I have been considering a new Mazda SUV (probably a CX-5, CX-50 or maybe even CX-90 after the 1st year bugs are worked out) but I may reconsider that now.
 
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pbm said:
Yes...a few weeks ago I got a chance to put the CX-30 up on a lift and remove the bolt holding that bracket (with a twist jack under it for support in case it dropped). I couldn't get the bracket to move at all so I buttoned everything back up and made the same decision as you (factory fluid forever) unless I learn later that the dealer has a way of shooting the gear oil in through the drain plug. I'd want to see it done rather than take their word for obvious reasons.

I'm disappointed in Mazda for making this maintenance item non maintainable. I'm also disappointed that they're telling us we have to put up with the ridiculous "Battery Low...Start Vehicle" warning as mentioned in a recent thread I started. I have been considering a new Mazda SUV (probably a CX-5, CX-50 or maybe even CX-90 after the 1st year bugs are worked out) but I may reconsider that now.
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Our 2018 CX-9 has been great so far just turned 63,000 mi.

I agree though this battery service light thing is very strange and not acceptable. And this issue some of you are encountering with the transfer case is just ridiculous! It is serviceable on ours and I did it at around 60,000.

It's a shame you can't get it done on yours. If it makes you feel better the color of the fluid when I drained ours was very good, a mild amber. No gray or black or anything like that, and no metal that I could see. 👍
 
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panthermike said:
Our 2018 CX-9 has been great so far just turned 63,000 mi.

I agree though this battery service light thing is very strange and not acceptable. And this issue some of you are encountering with the transfer case is just ridiculous! It is serviceable on ours and I did it at around 60,000.

It's a shame you can't get it done on yours. If it makes you feel better the color of the fluid when I drained ours was very good, a mild amber. No gray or black or anything like that, and no metal that I could see. 👍
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When I D&R'd the FF rear differential fluid at 25K it was also a mild amber with very little metallic fuzz on the magnet so I'm hoping the transfer case fluid is the same. I realize that many people never even look at rear diff and front TC case fluid but as a BITOGer I'm into keeping every fluid fresh. Hopefully I'll find a way to get that TC fluid changed eventually. Thanks Mike.
 
pbm said:
When I D&R'd the FF rear differential fluid at 25K it was also a mild amber with very little metallic fuzz on the magnet so I'm hoping the transfer case fluid is the same. I realize that many people never even look at rear diff and front TC case fluid but as a BITOGer I'm into keeping every fluid fresh. Hopefully I'll find a way to get that TC fluid changed eventually. Thanks Mike.
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Sounds like a plan and I am definitely the same as you, that kind of thing would drive me nuts 😁
 
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pbm said:
Yes...a few weeks ago I got a chance to put the CX-30 up on a lift and remove the bolt holding that bracket (with a twist jack under it for support in case it dropped). I couldn't get the bracket to move at all so I buttoned everything back up and made the same decision as you (factory fluid forever) unless I learn later that the dealer has a way of shooting the gear oil in through the drain plug. I'd want to see it done rather than take their word for obvious reasons.

I'm disappointed in Mazda for making this maintenance item non maintainable. I'm also disappointed that they're telling us we have to put up with the ridiculous "Battery Low...Start Vehicle" warning as mentioned in a recent thread I started. I have been considering a new Mazda SUV (probably a CX-5, CX-50 or maybe even CX-90 after the 1st year bugs are worked out) but I may reconsider that now.
Click to expand...
I've only seen the battery low warning if I didn't close a door completely after sitting overnight. The only recourse I see for the transfer case is grinding away just a little bit of the bracket to access the plug. That's what my mechanic said he could do if I really wanted to change it, but he said if it was his vehicle, he would just leave it alone, which I agreed with.
 
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danbfree said:
Gl4+ (GL4/5) is fine but they do use the softer metals and the GL5 only is corrosive to those softer metals and that is why they call for GL4 with hypoid additive pack. When you can find the Royal Purple for $14 a qt that meets these specs and will fill both the transfer case and rear diff there is no excuse, period, to not use the right stuff. This not like trying to argue you have to use Mazda brand motor oil, so it is irresponsible, reckless and dumb to even argue otherwise... On top of that, if you knew that starting with the '21 Mazda 3 AWD Turbo, the rear diff is in use constantly. There have been a lot of complaints of rear diff whine and flat out failures in our '21+ Mazda 3 AWD Turbo community, you have to be an idiot to try using the wrong **** and expect to get your rear diff replaced under warranty. I'm done arguing with nonsense, I'm out of here.
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Thanks for your posts - I just changed the Mazda 3 2.5T Transfer Case / Diff Fluid today (18,000KM). I used the genuine Mazda SG-1 - if your car is under warranty you may want to stick with OEM fluids. ($40 A QUART) The rear takes a 23MM for the fill plug and 24MM for the drain plug. The front splash shield covering the transfer case has 4 push pins (hard to take out) and a bunch of 10mm bolts. Once that's off the transfer case fill plug is a 8MM HEX key and the drain plug is a 24MM. You will need a breaker bar for the front and BE CAREFUL when you're taking it off I fu***ed up my finger doing so. The transfer case was low in fluid, the rear was a bit low. Both fluids looked the same amberish with a tint of brown. The new fluid looked really clean going in. 1QT is sufficient for both the transfer case and rear diff.
 
greed_95 said:
if your car is under warranty you may want to stick with OEM fluids. ($40 A QUART)
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Thanks for the change details for others but it is literally illegal to make you use their fluids, you just have to use what is *rated* for, in this case GL-4 safe and specifically with hypoid additives, and the Royal Purple meets this (only one with that *exact* rating). It feels FAR better, as it has far more anti-friction additives while meeting exact spec and is much cheaper. If it was $10 more than the Mazda I'd py moreforit, it's that much better... As far as the transmission fluid, none other than the blue actual Mazda FZ fluid meets exact specs. So personally I'm not using OEM (nor a multi-car that says is suitable), but actual Aisin made FZ and can be found fairly cheap on RockAuto when in stock...
 
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