Mazda 0-20 vs PU 5-20 ???

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M6ser

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What would be a better choice for a Florida driver of 2014 Mazda 6 and it's super high compression and DI engine... ?

Does Mazda's 0-20 really present FE advantage over PU 5-20 ?

Also if new Mazda6 is filled from a factory with Synthetic Moly 0-20 would it be better to dump it and use Valvoline conv. oil 5-20 to break it in for 2-3K miles ?
 
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No , leave the factory fill alone and run it near the recommended time . 5W20 would be OK but 0W20 would be my choice if I was keeping the car for the long haul .
 
Whatever it was that was put in the crankcase for the FF is fine for break-in. I dump FF early, but not too early(3-5K).

In regards to fuel economy, I don't think you'll see any measurable difference between the two oils. Having said that, what does the manual say; only 0w20? 5w20 or 0w20? That will also might have a factor in your oil choice. I do disagree with Nitehawk saying use 0w20 for longevity though, both weights will take your motor the distance.

Both oils are plenty good BTW.
 
Mazda sells the same car world wide and specs 0-20 and 5-30 in the same 2.5l sky DI engine for different markets...
I like to dump stock fill after 100 miles and do engine break in with conventional oil for 1-2K , than OC to a blend of the same conventional oil + quart of Synthetic of choice to be used later and than after 3K miles on the blend switch to all synthetic for 5K miles and 10K miles for all future OC's...
Walmart online recently allows to buy 5 quart jugs of PU 5-20 for 26usd... and ship to home address.
 
i just think super high compression and DI of this engine maybe tough on oil and if PU is a stock fill for high compression Ferrari it should do well in Mazda
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: M6ser
Mazda sells the same car world wide and specs 0-20 and 5-30 in the same 2.5l sky DI engine for different markets...
I like to dump stock fill after 100 miles and do engine break in with conventional oil for 1-2K , than OC to a blend of the same conventional oil + quart of Synthetic of choice to be used later and than after 3K miles on the blend switch to all synthetic for 5K miles and 10K miles for all future OC's...
Walmart online recently allows to buy 5 quart jugs of PU 5-20 for 26usd... and ship to home address.


I can understand wanting to change the FF early, but your break-in technique is a little overkill IMO. If you feel the need to dump the FF very early, I would at least go 1-2K on it.
 
I think you are overcomplicating things. Why use conventional during break in? If Mazda gives u the car with syn in it, it means you dont need to break it in with conventional..if you dump it do so when u want (id go 2k miles) and replace with Full Synthetic and call it a day. Why go conventional to semi syn to full? Maybe im missing something but i dont see the point...
 
Mazda Skyactiv engines are broken in from the factory before being installed into the vehicles. Thats why you see very minimal fluctuation in wear metals very early on in the engine's life ( via used oil analysis ). Use 0w20 without fear, Mobil 1 0w20 is one of the thicker oils you can get in that flavor, i'd use that.
 
Originally Posted By: panthermike
Whatever it was that was put in the crankcase for the FF is fine for break-in. I dump FF early, but not too early(3-5K).

In regards to fuel economy, I don't think you'll see any measurable difference between the two oils. Having said that, what does the manual say; only 0w20? 5w20 or 0w20? That will also might have a factor in your oil choice. I do disagree with Nitehawk saying use 0w20 for longevity though, both weights will take your motor the distance.

Both oils are plenty good BTW.


Well I do live in the north , I guess that's why I like to use 0W20 it's better on cold start up and that is when a lot of wear happens plus 0 grades usually have a better base .
 
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Originally Posted By: M6ser
Mazda sells the same car world wide and specs 0-20 and 5-30 in the same 2.5l sky DI engine for different markets...
I like to dump stock fill after 100 miles and do engine break in with conventional oil for 1-2K , than OC to a blend of the same conventional oil + quart of Synthetic of choice to be used later and than after 3K miles on the blend switch to all synthetic for 5K miles and 10K miles for all future OC's...
Walmart online recently allows to buy 5 quart jugs of PU 5-20 for 26usd... and ship to home address.


Why the heck would you dump the factory fill after 100 miles and then use conventional working up to semi syn and then Full Synthetic ?....that's beyond logic .
 
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+1 nitehawk55. In addition, I would need to see something in writing that states Skyactive engines are broken-in at the factory. Until I see something, I think they are NOT broken-in at the factory. Ed
 
Leave factory full in.. All this junk about breakin with conventional logic is garbage on newer vehicles..

Leave FF in till 5k or so preferably till what owners manual says, then dump and go with whatever synthetic you want.. If manual says 5w20 is ok go with the PU.
 
I would also leave the FF in for at least most of the initial recommended OCI. Changing at 100 miles and going to a dino for break in is not necessary, IMHO. Mazda created the service schedule and spec'ed the FF oil with a full knowledge of what's required to break the engine in properly. (When in doubt, read the instructions.)

Both the Mazda 0w-20 and PU 5-w20 are very good oils and good choices for your engine. Either should get you excellent results. I'd lean toward the PU if it's easier to source, ie your walmart caries it.
 
Originally Posted By: M6ser

Does Mazda's 0-20 really present FE advantage over PU 5-20 ?


BTW, what does "FE" stand for?
 
Originally Posted By: 05LGTLtd
Originally Posted By: M6ser

Does Mazda's 0-20 really present FE advantage over PU 5-20 ?


BTW, what does "FE" stand for?


Fuel economy in this instance. In a used oil analysis it would probably mean iron.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: 05LGTLtd
Originally Posted By: M6ser

Does Mazda's 0-20 really present FE advantage over PU 5-20 ?


BTW, what does "FE" stand for?


Fuel economy in this instance. In a used oil analysis it would probably mean iron.


"Fe" would be iron. First letter always capital, second letter always lowercase. Sorry, but being a chemist that drives me crazy.
 
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