Maxlife - Attn: TallPaul

[blackdiamond]

I finally found a place in town that stocks the Synthetic Maxlife. I am very interested in running it in my Mazdaspeed 3 2.3L turbo engine when I make the switch to synthetic at the next oil change. I have a few questions/conerns that I would appreciate some help with:

(1) Do you know what the additive is that functions as the seal conditioner?

(2) Will it have any negative effect on new seals? I know that Valvoline advertises that it is fine for new engines.

(3) Will it have any impact on the turbo?

I like the idea of the Maxlife because it contains more anti-wear additives and the conventional/blend Maxlife seems to get excellent reviews and I think the synthetic should only be better. I would be running 5w30.

Thanks!

p.s. all opinions are welcome, I just know that TallPaul seems to have a lot to say about Maxlife.

 

[JGmazda]

Hey Black Diamond, I'm running the 5w30 in my Mazda Miata. I love this oil! It's by-far the best oil I have used in terms of oil pressure, quietness, burn off, $$$, smoothness. I realize much of this is subjective but... I've run Mobil and Castrol and even GC in my little 4-banger. Yes, they all didn't cause my engine to explode but? I just ran across country 2000 miles and didn't burn a drop of the Maxlife.

I also used to get some "hot tick" when running hard in the Phoenix summer temps with Mobil 1. Switching to Maxlife made that disappear. So did the startup HLA tick.

Don't worry about the additives! They won't hurt your new seals. If anything, they will keep them conditioned. Don't let anyone fool you, Maxlife Synthetic is a great oil and I'm sticking with it! Just do it!

Oh, BTW, Where's the new place that sells it? I'm always on the lookout!

 

[JGmazda]

Oh forgot... TallPaul will tell you how good this oil is... much better than I can!

 

[ThirdeYe]

I emailed Valvoline before about using Maxlife in newer engines and/or engines with newer seals and they said it was fine. I have a few quarts of it in my basement (although it's the blend, not the full synthetic). I got the blend at Kmart for $2.25 a quart, not too bad

 

[blackdiamond]

I found it at a local Shucks.

 

[JGmazda]

Yes... Kmart has a great deal 4qts for $9 on the blend. (dino Maxlife) I bought some of that too. You know you're hooked when you start buying oil just to stock up!

 

[ThirdeYe]

Or in my case, I just did my first oil change 2 months ago, and already have 75+ quarts since then. Keep in mind back in January, I didn't know the first thing about maintenance, let alone even how to change the oil on a car!

 

[JGmazda]

See!!!! I've got a friend who throws whatever he can find into his car. When I try to explain to him about "oil" i get this look of.... ????? I'm amazed his car even runs! Good for you though! Knowledge is power. I'm now an Oil addict.

 

[Merkava_4]

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Oh forgot... TallPaul will tell you how good this oil is... much better than I can!

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Yeah I think TallPaul has already gone to beddyby tonight, but he'll have a good answer in the morning.

 

[JGmazda]

LOL... Too funny. Yes, Valvoline should pay him for his support of their oils.

 

[VeeDubb]

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LOL... Too funny. Yes, Valvoline should pay him for his support of their oils.

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Maybe he's a closet Valvoline spokesman. Just joking Tallpall.

I've run Maxlife Syn in my VW 1.8t turbo since 30k (now at 69k) and the engine has run great. No oil consumption, good turbo response. mileage is a little #@$%! though, but it's thick so that's no surprise. My only concern is that I see a thin brown coat on the engine when I look inside the filler cap. Jag, who seems pretty knowledgeable, thinks that it is pre-varnish. I'm going to take apart my PVC valve and see if there is any junk in there to tell for sure.

 

[Merkava_4]

TallPaul -

As you can see, the board was actively talking about you while you were sleeping.

 

[blackdiamond]

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My only concern is that I see a thin brown coat on the engine when I look inside the filler cap. Jag, who seems pretty knowledgeable, thinks that it is pre-varnish. I'm going to take apart my PVC valve and see if there is any junk in there to tell for sure.

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What do you run for OCI? Other than visually, what negative effects does varnish have?

 

[blackdiamond]

Also, how fun will it be to take Maxlife 75,000 mile + oil into the dealer to put into a car with 5,000 miles on the clock. They are going to think I'm nuts.

 

[ThirdeYe]

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See!!!! I've got a friend who throws whatever he can find into his car. When I try to explain to him about "oil" i get this look of.... ????? I'm amazed his car even runs! Good for you though! Knowledge is power. I'm now an Oil addict.

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I've even worked my way up to changing spark plugs & wires, replacing my turn signals, replacing my air filter, replacing my power steering fluid, resetting my ECU and oil change reminder light, removing my valve cover and replacing the valve cover gasket and cam plug (which isn't easy, so I had some help getting the cover off), and next in line is replacing the PCV valve

I'm pretty proud of myself and two months progress and a lot of advice from members here.

I love the feeling I get of knowing I can do basic things that I can't believe some dealers would charge for and saving myself money in the long run, and being able to help others out

 

[B00SS]

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I love the feeling I get of knowing I can do basic things that I can't believe some dealers would charge for and saving myself money in the long run, and being able to help others out

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I love that feeling!

 

[TallPaul]

Don't know how I missed this earlier this am.

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(1) Do you know what the additive is that functions as the seal conditioner?

(2) Will it have any negative effect on new seals? I know that Valvoline advertises that it is fine for new engines.

(3) Will it have any impact on the turbo?

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I would assume the seal conditioner is a special blend of ingredients, possibly PAO being one of them. I would not expect any problems with new seals, since the great V says you can use this in new and rebuilt engines. As someone said above, I would expect the seal conditioners to mininize the deleterious effects of age and use on seals. Check with Valvoline, but I suspect Maxlife is up to it, maybe need the full synthetic.

 

[blackdiamond]

I was planning to run the full synthetic Maxlife. Should I anticipate any issues in the future if I chose to switch, or Maxlife is no longer available, to a non-High Mileage oil? My plan is to pick an oil and then go with it unless there is some obvious issue with it. A significant reduction in mpg from conventional to synthetic Maxlife might be one reason to give it up.

 

[TallPaul]

The only issue with stopping a High Mileage oil or any other seal conditioning agent is if the seals are not through the cleaning and rejuvinating process you might be left with leaks. If you switch and leaks develop you can simply switch back or try something a little more agressive.

My last motorhome had around 80,000 miles on it. The last 15,000 or so was Maxlife. Then I filled it with Group III and it started leaking. I added K&W Engine Oil Stop Leak and it stopped within 700 miles and I never saw more leakage in the 5500 miles longer that I owned it. I did put it back on Maxlife for the next OCI.

Why did it leak, probably the Maxlife had not finished doing its job when I switched to Group III.

But once the seals are clean and rejuvinated, you should be able to switch and not get any leaks.

 

[JAG]

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I've run Maxlife Syn in my VW 1.8t turbo since 30k (now at 69k) and the engine has run great. No oil consumption, good turbo response. mileage is a little #@$%! though, but it's thick so that's no surprise. My only concern is that I see a thin brown coat on the engine when I look inside the filler cap. Jag, who seems pretty knowledgeable, thinks that it is pre-varnish. I'm going to take apart my PVC valve and see if there is any junk in there to tell for sure.

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Off topic but the PCV valve is SO hard to get to. I gave up on getting to it. The Y-hose that connects to the valve cover vent hole is what's semi-easy to take off and inspect/clean. The black plastic piece (air regulator, apparently) at the other end of the Y-hose by the intake hose is another piece that should be taken out and cleaned with CRC electronics part cleaner.