Maxlife ATF Compatibility

[kschachn]

To directly address the title of your question, the answer is “yes”. It says so right on the container and you even note that.

I used to chase the unicorn of Honda OEM fluid but I stopped that a long time ago. For a while I used DEXRON-VI but the last 100K miles or more it’s been Maxlife. In fact, I now use Maxlife in every one of my vehicles as they are all listed as compatible.

My experience is that it works fine. So far over hundreds of thousands of miles the transmissions haven’t grenaded nor are they messed up. They are fine, including the Honda.

 

[Carlostrece]

Is there something wrong with it right now ? You've mentioned nothing, so why does it need "evaluated" ?

Evaluate it in regard to whether AFT fluid should, or should not, be changed by examining the color of fluid and considering mileage and age. It's probably never been changed/serviced, but it still drives perfectly.

BTW - is the stock fluid supposed to be pink when new? It'd be nice to know that before I look at it. I want to see what color the used fluid is. Then I will also have a local transmission shop look at it to give me their pro opinion.

I don't yet know the mileage or visual condition of fluid. I'll figure that out next week when a neighbor is available to help me check the fluid level. I can't do that by myself because I can't walk. I get around quite well using a mobility scooter, but there's some things I can't do.

 

[Carlostrece]

The safest way to confirm is just send an email to Valvoline on their website. They answered my question the next day and that's during the weekend.

It's already been confirmed that Maxlife ATF is compatible with 2003 Honda CR-V based on what I read on Valvoline's website and what others posted in this thread.

What isn't yet known whether it's advisable to replace the old ATF. It might not be a good idea because it might be past the point of safely doing it. I'll figure that out next week and get a local trans shop opinion. If it's determined likely safe to change, I'll let the trans shop do it.

 

[Carlostrece]

I appreciate the people who advised caution about changing very old ATF. I understand the reason (possible worn clutches). Earlier I assumed it'd be OK to replace old ATF because the CR-V still drives and shifts properly.

Even though this 2003 Honda CR-V has suffered a lifetime of hideous neglect, everything about it still functions perfectly (except AC). This is why I have hope that it can be saved.

Taking into account the cautionary advice I received in this thread... I will proceed with caution and investigate and visually evaluate fluid myself. I might just decide to only top it off (with Maxlife) and NOT change it.

What color is stock Honda brand ATF when new? Pink? I'd like to know so I can better understand what I see when I look at color of the old ATF. I know that's a ridiculously newbie question, but I have no experience with Honda.

I'll also let trans shop look at it and tell me what they recommend. I'll let them do whatever they think best, but I still want to look at the old fluid myself. I want to see its color.

 

[kschachn]

What isn't yet known whether it's advisable to replace the old ATF. It might not be a good idea because it might be past the point of safely doing it. I'll figure that out next week and get a local trans shop opinion. If it's determined likely safe to change, I'll let the trans shop do it.

Yes it is known. Replacing the fluid will not cause an issue. This is an old rumor that has been extensively discussed on here. New fluid will not cause damage nor is the transmission "pas the point of safely doing it".

Worn friction material does not hold the transmission together.

 

[Starving Electrician]

Okay my opinion/some truth. One changing fluid in a transmission won't damage it. If it's damaged it's damaged dirty fluid isn't a miracle. Two max life isnt a bad fluid but is very different in formulation from Z1 or DW1. DW1 is Z1 with a batter base stock. So for me I would change it, and I would use genuine Honda DW1.

 

[Hall]

BTW - is the stock fluid supposed to be pink when new?

I wouldn't call it pink, but I'm color-deficient. It's definitely got a reddish tint, though I can't say if it's regular red, darker red, or lighter red - sorry.

 

[We're Metals]

What color is stock Honda brand ATF when new? Pink? I'd like to know so I can better understand what I see when I look at color of the old ATF. I know that's a ridiculously newbie question, but I have no experience with Honda.

 

[samiamz]

A few missing data points would be helpful.
What is the current mileage on the car? (I think that we would all be a bit more inclined to do a simple D&F at 100k miles than at say 210k miles. If the decision is made to service it, simple D&F with 3-4 qts of DW-1, drive it for 1000 miles, repeat with another D&F and this time drive it for 2000 miles and then do a final D&F. Thereafter you can follow whatever interval you are comfortable with - I follow 2 yrs or 15,000 miles, whichever comes sooner.

Is this a FWD or a AWD model? OP mentions that that the car drives well, except for the AC - but also mentions that it has been "hideously neglected". If it's going to get a trans refresh, then it likely deserves a rear diff service too.

Only the owner, the neighbor can decide if he would like a trans refresh, after considering the pros and cons. OP best role is to advise and counsel. Rest is up to neighbor. If things don't work out as anticipated, the OP should not be to blame.

With regards to fluids, I am a firm believer in using OEM fluid (DW-1 in this case) whenever possible. Why take a chance with a universal fluid, when the cost difference is maybe only $20-30 more? Again, not knocking on any aftermarket fluids - I'm sure that they have been fine with thousands of cars for millions of miles.

 

[Carlostrece]

I wouldn't call it pink, but I'm color-deficient. It's definitely got a reddish tint, though I can't say if it's regular red, darker red, or lighter red - sorry.

OK. So new Honda ATF is reddish or pinkish. Good to know. Knowing that, I can use the same traditional visual analysis and thinking that I would on an American car like my Buick.

Red or pink is good condition, but top it off.

Brown should be changed.

Black should not be changed by an amateur. Let a pro decide what to do. A pro will probably just top it off and call it a day, but it's their call and their responsibility.

 

[kschachn]

Black should not be changed by an amateur. Let a pro decide what to do. A pro will probably just top it off and call it a day, but it's their call and their responsibility.

Where are you getting this from?

 

[Carlostrece]

Where are you getting this from?

Chris Fix Youtube how to DIY video and many others recently. Also I read this on DIY websites years ago. It's classic knowledge that still applies. My local trans shop also recently told me this (in regard to my Buick in that case) and they're pros. Also many on BITOG (including this thread) are leery of changing ATF in a neglected transnission.

 

[kschachn]

Hmm. Okay.

 

[Glenda W.]

A fluid exchange will not cause a problem on a high mileage transmission. A “flush” I never recommend, especially with solvents and additives. Most shops upsell the flush…

 

[ARB1977]

Do it. I use Amsoil SS blue cap atf in the six speed. Change the filter while your at it.

 

[4329]

Chris Fix Youtube how to DIY video and many others recently. Also I read this on DIY websites years ago. It's classic knowledge that still applies. My local trans shop also recently told me this (in regard to my Buick in that case) and they're pros. Also many on BITOG (including this thread) are leery of changing ATF in a neglected transnission.

Changing fluid on a neglected transmission will NOT cause issues with transmission operation. However, carrying out a flush or other forms of cleaning will dislodge particles and may well block or reduce fluid flow in the valve body.

Try to apply common sense to this issue. When you drain the fluid, it is not being forced out and therefore will not disturb any particles attached to the internal parts of the transmission only loose particles will flow out with the fluid.

When you add new fluid it flows into the transmission gently and will not dislodge any particles.

 

[4329]

To directly address the title of your question, the answer is “yes”. It says so right on the container and you even note that.

I used to chase the unicorn of Honda OEM fluid but I stopped that a long time ago. For a while I used DEXRON-VI but the last 100K miles or more it’s been Maxlife. In fact, I now use Maxlife in every one of my vehicles as they are all listed as compatible.

My experience is that it works fine. So far over hundreds of thousands of miles the transmissions haven’t grenaded nor are they messed up. They are fine, including the Honda.

Perhaps someone on this forum can explain how any multi vehicle can work in many different transmissions given that different transmissions operate at different pressures, temps and have different clutch pack materials. The programs are also not the same.

We know that a manufacturer of an engine will call up a specification, viscosity based on operating temperatures, or an approval. This gives us a reference point in choosing the oil that will not create engine issues. What reference point do we have for transmission fluids.

People have used multi vehicle fluids with no issues and this is due to the fact that the additives from the approved fluid will be embedded in the clutch pack and may remain there over an unknown period of fluid changes thus creating the believe that the multi vehicle is safe to use.

It would be interesting to have new transmissions only filled with multi vehicle fluid to truly test these magic fluids.

 

[Carlostrece]

Perhaps someone on this forum can explain how any multi vehicle can work in many different transmissions given that different transmissions operate at different pressures, temps and have different clutch pack materials. The programs are also not the same.

We know that a manufacturer of an engine will call up a specification, viscosity based on operating temperatures, or an approval. This gives us a reference point in choosing the oil that will not create engine issues. What reference point do we have for transmission fluids.

People have used multi vehicle fluids with no issues and this is due to the fact that the additives from the approved fluid will be embedded in the clutch pack and may remain there over an unknown period of fluid changes thus creating the believe that the multi vehicle is safe to use.

It would be interesting to have new transmissions only filled with multi vehicle fluid to truly test these magic fluids.

I don't know how/why a multivehicle ATF can work well, but it can/does in compatible vehicles.

Example... I changed my 96 Jeep Cherokes AT from original fluid to Mobil One (multivehicle) ATF when that Jeep has 30K miles on it. I had it changed again at 90K miles (again with M1 ATF).

At 93K miles I sold that Jeep to a friend who then drove it to 410K miles without ever changing ATF. The engine finally had low compression in 1 or 2 cylinders at 410K miles. So he sold it at 410K miles. The transmission was still going strong at 410K with the the M1 ATF that I put in it at 90K.

So clearly M1 (multivehicle) ATF got the job done well in that Jeep for most of its life. It only had stock ATF for 30K miles. Then M1 multivehicle ATF for 380K miles and was still working good. (30+380=410)

I can easily believe that Maxlife (multivehicle) ATF could do the same.

How it does that, I don't know because I'm not an engineer or chemist, but I experienced M1 multivehicle ATF working great in that Jeep and 1 other.

In the case of Maxlife ATF, I suspect it might be better than OEM ATF in high mileage compatible vehicles due to more/better seal conditioners.

 

[JHZR2]

Chris Fix Youtube how to DIY video and many others recently. Also I read this on DIY websites years ago. It's classic knowledge that still applies. My local trans shop also recently told me this (in regard to my Buick in that case) and they're pros. Also many on BITOG (including this thread) are leery of changing ATF in a neglected transnission.

Maybe if an AT is severely neglected and a solvent flush knocks a lot of stuff loose that clogs a valve body… ok…

This is why you go slow and gentle. Partial fluid exchange to get new fluid, detergents, dispersants, fms in there. Then swap a bit more, then change the filter. Incremental improvement if nothing had been done and you have reason to be concerned.

 

[JeffKeryk]

Maybe if an AT is severely neglected and a solvent flush knocks a lot of stuff loose that clogs a valve body… ok…

This is why you go slow and gentle. Partial fluid exchange to get new fluid, detergents, dispersants, fms in there. Then swap a bit more, then change the filter. Incremental improvement if nothing had been done and you have reason to be concerned.

This is how I serviced our GS350 F Sport. 1st did a spill and fill with filter exchange. The fluid was worn but not burnt.
A year later I had a great Toy/Lex shop do a 12 quart flush via the radiator coolant line. I am confident the trans is well serviced. 115K on the clock, or thereabouts...
This is a great, dependable car. Even fun!