Manual trans shifting problems- not clutch!

[mark pruett]

I'm having a hard time figuring out what's wrong with my transmission.

I just got the clutch replaced, since the pilot bearing went out, and was squealing like crazy when the clutch was in and I was putting it into gear.
Clutch aside, I've been having trouble getting it to go into gear for a while. I thought it might have been the clutch, but since it's just replaced, I guess not. Here are the symptoms:

Stopped at a red light, with the transmission in neutral, it doesn't go straight into first- it hangs up about 60% of the time. If I shift it into some other gear and then back into first, it goes fine. It doesn't always want to go into the other gears either.

Sometimes, if I just pause a second, it'll go into gear without any force. Sometimes not.

No problems downshifting- no grinding, nothing.

I'm kind of bamboozled- it shouldn't be a clutch issue at this point, but what part of the transmission is it, and are there any work-arounds or techniques to minimize it?

 

[coal68]

only thing I can think of is synchros.

 

[Chris142]

Too much clutch pedal freeplay? Caused by incorrect adjustment if it's a mechanical linkage or air in the line if it's hydralic.

Or a bent disc.

 

[TallPaul]

I once had a bad hydraulically actuated clutch slave cylinder (leaking) that made it hard to shift into gear at a stoplight.

 

[Dave Hess]

Stopped at a red light, with the transmission in neutral, it doesn't go straight into first- it hangs up about 60% of the time. If I shift it into some other gear and then back into first, it goes fine. It doesn't always want to go into the other gears either.

This happens to alot of cars with a manual transmission. I have noticed this many times in my wife's Honda. Just put it in neutral, then rev the motor slightly / tap the gas pedal and it will smoothly shift into 1st gear. A quality transmission fluid helps too.

 

[srivett]

What kind of car is it? The A1/2/3 VWs are terrible for worn out shift linkages. My 1st gear is in a different spot every time I shift! Anyway, it only costs about 20 bucks in parts to replace the bushings and links so I'm doing that tomorrow. Having an out of adjustment clutch will give you a growl and no shift or a tough shift. If your car has a clutch brake push the clutch to the floor when shifting to 1st or reverse.

Steve

 

[mark pruett]

It's a 1995 Ford Ranger with the M5OD-R1 transmission.

I'm guessing it's not a clutch problem- the guys at the shop said that they put in a new clutch kit, so all the hydraulic gizmos should be ok.

Would bad synchros cause this? I thought they mainly came into play on downshifting, not upshifting.

 

[TallPaul]

quote:

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Originally posted by mark pruett:
I'm guessing it's not a clutch problem- the guys at the shop said that they put in a new clutch kit, so all the hydraulic gizmos should be ok.

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Mine is a M5OD, but a bigger one in the F150. And if they put a "clutch kit" in, I doubt they did any thing to the hydraulics. That is a totally separate system but for the interface at the slave cylinder. Normally they do a clutch they merely pop off the slave, install the clutch, and reinstall the slave. They should have tested it though and seen if there was still a problem.

Worn syncros could cause trouble too.

 

[shortyb]

If its been doing it since day 1, either poor design or sloppy tolerances. If not, it may be a worn cone synchro for first gear. This sychro spins up very fast and provides a "lock-out" of sorts. Keeps you from shifting into first at speeds that could cause damage. Usually allows smooth shift into first at very slow speeds or when stopped. I would try fresh transmission fluid or a switch to some of the transmission specific lubes. I just filled with a Specialty Formulations lube and it produced noticable, positive results.

 

[deepsquat]

I think your slave cylinder is either bad or needs to be bleed ..most likely bad

 

[Wasuchi]

I vote syncro, if it was clutch hydraulics it would probably jerk into gear (lurch forward) or grind as he was putting it into gear from a stop, at least that's been my experience.

 

[Drew99GT]

If they replaced your throwout bearing as well, I'd say all you need to do is adjust your linkage. Do you feel a lot of peddle freeplay? I know hydraulic clutches are self adjusting and all, but if an old clucth system is well worn, especially the throwout bearing, when you install a new one along with pressure plate and disk, the clutch release lever will now have a bit more slack because the pressure plate springs won't be sticking out so far because the linings/disk aren't worn. As they wear, the face of the pressure plate will get closer and closer to the flywheel as material is worn away, which forces the diaphram springs out more and the slack is taken up by the hydraulics. Vice versa when you install a brand new clutch.