Making brake lines

[Trav]

Very easy job to do, it just takes a little time and patience. Use NiCopp, it bends easy by hand or over a piece of pipe and flares very easily.
I use different diameter pieces of scrap plastic pipe depending on the size of the curve and bending springs for really tight bends. You can get a 1/4" spring at the hardware store for a couple of bucks.

Before you start the job source a flaring tool The OTC stinger is cheap and you can get it in SAE and Metric or a set that covers all, the set will cover most of the brake lines you will likely encounter.
For heavier lines this is not the tool, a more expensive hydraulic is better suited but for NiCopp the OTC is fine.

http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-6502.aspx

I cut the end of the line off right at the fitting and remove the fitting with a 6pt socket and ratchet. Mark the location of the fittings and take them down to NAPA or AA and get replacements. That's the fitting problems solved.

Remove the old like from its clips, if its hidden just cut it off and leave it, you can use the remnant to zip tie the new line to it.
Don't worry if its rotten or broken just lay them out and bend the new line in the same shape and length adding an 1 1/2" on each end for the line lost in the cutoff fitting, a couple of inches longer is fine you can bend that out of the way along the run.
Its better a little long than too short.

When you do the flares use a little brake fluid on the end of the line just before making the flare, it makes for a much smoother flare. Practice doing a few flares before attacking the cut piece of line and don't forget to but the fitting on before you flare the line.

 

[eljefino]

If a saturn Delco ABS VI loses all its fluid from pumping out an old line or taking too long to splice a new one in, it leads to a soft pedal that's really hard to cure. Try to skip the ABS.

 

[andyd]

The whole trick with rusty brake lines is to make them a preemptive strike. Not, a fix it when it breaks thing. My last 2 brake line jobs were like that. Over 40 yrs of brake line repairs, I can't add much to Elejefino's post. I use a cheap double flare tool. I also have 2 small tubing cutters and a little file. Follow the directions use a little brake fluid and be patient. Above all, don't forget to slide the nut on first

 

[supton]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
http://nh.craigslist.org/cto/5327342201.html

http://nh.craigslist.org/cto/5300135279.html


Looked at the Satun. It was nice to drive a stick again! But not that car. How it got a sticker this month despite at least two large windshield cracks and a loud exhaust leak is beyond me. Suspension was a bit loose, with the oddest power steering--boosted at low speed and not so once moving.

Looked at a Corotla but then realized the fuel lines were as bad as the brake lines, and then got cold feet on it. Well, the gas tank strap was about gone, and the subframe/whatever on the rear bumper was very crusty. Not to mention the missing rockers. The 1.6L/3AT sealed that deal.

 

[supton]

Originally Posted By: andyd
The whole trick with rusty brake lines is to make them a preemptive strike. Not, a fix it when it breaks thing. My last 2 brake line jobs were like that. Over 40 yrs of brake line repairs, I can't add much to Elejefino's post. I use a cheap double flare tool. I also have 2 small tubing cutters and a little file. Follow the directions use a little brake fluid and be patient. Above all, don't forget to slide the nut on first

Yep, I'd prefer to be proactive. I'm sure it'd be second nature--once I've done it for the first time.

 

[Trav]

Once you get the hang of making the flares its a very easy job. On one of my cars i swapped out the brake lines, evap lines and fuel lines with NiCopp. I took the time and did a really clean job, no more corrosion issues to worry about.

 

[andyd]

Trav, I am not disputing your description of NiCopp as superior material. As a professional, it makes sense to use a material that is easier to get better results from. My lines were formed by running 3/16 steel line off a coil into what clips survived getting rid of the old lines. Zip ties were used where clips were missing. Plumbing wise, it works great.It flunks craft wise because it is so ugly. When I was done, I painted the lines and covered the fittings with chassis lube. I don't see the truck outlasting the steel lines. I found flaring to be simple. Once I read the instructions that came with the tool. And followed them to the letter. A tubing cutter closes the end a bit as it cuts. That must be removed for best results. A fine file and something for a ream handles it.

 

[Merkava_4]

Clicky Here

 

[Trav]

Its not a question of being just a superior material it also saves a lot of time over the steel, it is easier for a pro and many times easier for the guy doing it at home to flare and bend.
It is a one time job, I see many aftermarket steel lines not having even close to the OE for corrosion protection, in the salt belt this is a huge difference especially if someone wants to keep the car more than a few more years.
This is one of those jobs a DIY can do that will be superior to a dealer of independent shop will do.

I have some nice bending tools but with NiCopp you can put them away, even with a bender you still need a bending spring to make the tight loop found in some ABS units and a piece of 2" plastic pipe for the coil at the master cylinder.
This stuff is so easy to free hand it makes the job of bending child's play.

Amazon has NiCopp 25 ft for $36 with free shipping

http://www.amazon.com/NiCopp-Nickel-Copper-Brake-Line/dp/B00A02C9H0

Compare that to steel at $22 for 25 ft at the local B&M store and the 10 bucks isnt looking like much of an additional expense for what you get.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/poly-...Term=brake+line

 

[KrisZ]

Originally Posted By: Trav
It is a one time job, I see many aftermarket steel lines not having even close to the OE for corrosion protection, in the salt belt this is a huge difference especially if someone wants to keep the car more than a few more years.


Yup I can attest to that. When I bought my, now sold, Ford Focus, it failed safety because the original rear brake lines were rusting at the fittings going into the pistons. The car was 9 years old.
I changed them with steel lines bought from Napa. I even coated them with rust proofing oil. Well, about three years later when I was selling it, those lines were rusting at the fittings again. Fortunately I sold the car as is.

No more steel lines for me if I ever have to do the job.

 

[supton]

Good info; I watched a couple of vids and maybe I'll try my hand at it some day. I'll at least fear it less. Now brake lines and other rust...

Originally Posted By: JC1
There are plenty of videos on youtube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yC-b28mpCA

Make sure you flare the ends and don't try to use only a compression fitting.



in that video... where was the rust on the car? It was rather shockingly clean!

Found this, which shows better how to use that tool. I thought I had that tool, but I don't recall having the smaller black part.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDNHQhExDOQ

 

[zzyzzx]

I've only done hard brake lines once. On a pickup truck. I used pre-bent lines purchased at a dealer. They were cheap and easy to buy. Meaning very inexpensive and ordered on day one and pickup up at the dealer on day two (which I though was odd for a 15 year old pickup). Installing them was challenging at times, but probably easier than doing it on a car.

 

[George7941]

You applied rustproofing oil on the brake lines when you installed them but did you renew it annually?

I spray the brake lines on my truck with Krown twice a year.

 

[Trav]

Just like body panels brake lines get corroded from inside and outside. All the rustproofing in the world isn't stopping the inside corrosion of the closed line.

 

[CT8]

I prefer to buy pre made brake lines when ever possible. It is time consuming to make brake line double flairs. Even more so to make them look real good.

 

[Trav]

The problem with that is many vehicles need the fuel tank and other parts removing, especially body on frame constructed vehicles.

 

[CT8]

I hate when things are designed as such. I try to buy pick up trucks as they are [easier] to work on for lack of a better term and seem to last a bit longer.

 

[George7941]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Just like body panels brake lines get corroded from inside and outside. All the rustproofing in the world isn't stopping the inside corrosion of the closed line.


If the brake hydraulic system is flushed regularly, would that not keep moisture off the insides of the brake lines and keep internal corrosion to a minimum?

 

[Trav]

Yes it would but not everyone is Bitog people, most people never even think of flushing the brake fluid.

 

[KrisZ]

Originally Posted By: George7941
You applied rustproofing oil on the brake lines when you installed them but did you renew it annually?

I spray the brake lines on my truck with Krown twice a year.


Well yes, the original ones lasted 9 years with zero rust proofing, so I figured the replacements would as well and I wasn't planning to keep the car beyond few years anyways.
Had I known what I know now, I would simply install NiCop lines like Trav is suggesting and don't even bother with steel lines. Rustproofing works, but it can only do so much with cheap materials.
If the replacement lines had good quality steel, they would've been fine, but most of them do not. They will rot one way or another, unless some extreme measures are taken.
But if extreme measures have to be taken, like rustproofing twice a year, then why use inferior product? NiCop eliminates all that hassle.