Make your car last 200,000 miles -CR

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I made it 9 years/225,000 miles in my 95 Civic with just a few issues. Radiator, muffler x2, clutch master cylinder(warranty), brakes x 2 and CV boots. I had dealer perform maintenance per manual. I did skip the 2nd timing belt change at 190k miles(first at 100k). All issues cropped up past 150k miles.

I just could not stand the car starting around 160k miles when seat cushion was uncomfortable, struts were worn out and made terrible noises, rattles and creaks.

I put a for sales sign and sold it within two hours for $2000. My wife came home and said where's your car??? I said I sold it and bought a Subaru WRX wagon
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the next day. I will get rid of my WRX at 150k miles too.

150k is my goal
 
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I made it 9 years/225,000 miles in my 95 Civic with just a few issues...




You're the ideal candidate right there rj!
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That's about ~25Kmi/yr? Your typical 12-15Kmi/yr N.East driver would take so long to achieve 200Kmi, the drivetrain might be ok, but rest of the car would be shot.

Joel
 
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I made it 9 years/225,000 miles in my 95 Civic with just a few issues...




You're the ideal candidate right there rj!
cheers.gif
That's about ~25Kmi/yr? Your typical 12-15Kmi/yr N.East driver would take so long to achieve 200Kmi, the drivetrain might be ok, but rest of the car would be shot.




Agreed. The paint was bubbling around the back of the wheel wells and the rear bumper started to sag as the supports were totally rotten out underneath apparently according to a prospective buyer in hour one of my two hour auto sale.
 
Kelpie come to Michigan I can find you all the rusted out domestic's you want!I will say this much though Asian products built prior to the 1980's did not do well in salt covered roads here in the USA!!!Datsun's and Honda'a were the worst for this!!!I also understand that all companies make a few lemons!

Part's stores stock what sell's and order the rest. It is no accident that they have almost ever concieveable part for GM vechiles in stock most of the time!Need a lifter or piston for GM 60°V6 or an intake manifold for a 5.3V8 or a blower motor for a 1997 Astro Van no problem I am sure autozone has one in stock.Try to find those same part's in stock at any part store in Town for an Audi or Toyota and see what you see!
 
You know I just had to throw this in: Click here to see the story (and picture) of a Prius-I at over 316,000 miles -- and still on the original traction battery (and without the TSB upgrade for resealing parts in the original design battery pack).
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Need a lifter or piston for GM 60°V6 or an intake manifold for a 5.3V8 or a blower motor for a 1997 Astro Van no problem I am sure autozone has one in stock.Try to find those same part's in stock at any part store in Town for an Audi or Toyota and see what you see!




The Autozone in zip 20110 has a blower motor and a cooling fan assembly for a 1997 Toyota Camry in stock. AC compressor too. They also have pistons in stock for the 2.2L engine in that car. No intake manifold though (doesn't surprise me--they are usually dealer-only items), they do have the intake manifold gasket however, and I don't think lifters are used on that particular engine..
 
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Part's stores stock what sell's and order the rest. It is no accident that they have almost ever concieveable part for GM vechiles in stock most of the time!Need a lifter or piston for GM 60°V6 or an intake manifold for a 5.3V8 or a blower motor for a 1997 Astro Van no problem I am sure autozone has one in stock.Try to find those same part's in stock at any part store in Town for an Audi or Toyota and see what you see!



It's like that for a reason. Toyota engines need internal repair a lot less often than Chevrolet engines. How often have you EVER seen a cast aluminum Toyota intake manifold need replacement? I haven't heard of it. But I HAVE heard of GM plastic manifold failures left and right.


If the Toyota engine parts were in even the same class of demand that the old domestic engine parts are, then sure, you'd see them stocked. it's business 101, not a conspiracy. your post is pointless and you shouldn't have made it.
 
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Part's stores stock what sell's and order the rest. It is no accident that they have almost ever concieveable part for GM vechiles in stock most of the time!Need a lifter or piston for GM 60°V6 or an intake manifold for a 5.3V8 or a blower motor for a 1997 Astro Van no problem I am sure autozone has one in stock.Try to find those same part's in stock at any part store in Town for an Audi or Toyota and see what you see!



It's like that for a reason. Toyota engines need internal repair a lot less often than Chevrolet engines. How often have you EVER seen a cast aluminum Toyota intake manifold need replacement? I haven't heard of it. But I HAVE heard of GM plastic manifold failures left and right.


If the Toyota engine parts were in even the same class of demand that the old domestic engine parts are, then sure, you'd see them stocked. it's business 101, not a conspiracy. your post is pointless and you shouldn't have made it.



Have you ever seen a cast aluminum GM intake manifold fail? At least try to make some apples to apples comparisons here, especially since Toyota has jumped on the plastic intake manifold bandwagon too.

My friend had a 2000 or 2001 Solara 2.2L. He never needed any internal engine parts replaced, just the whole thing...at 60,000 miles.
 
I'm just glad my 2006 Saab 93 has a metal intake manifold. Maybe that's because it's turbocharged? Anyone know of any turbocharged engines with a plastic intake manifold?
 
The problem with virtually all high mileage vehicles is few are even close to meeting modern crash or emission standards. Would you like to be t boned in a 1990 Camry or a 2007 Camry? When you consider the danger to the occupants plus the higher emissions from these old vehicles (even those with fuel injection) it doesn't make sense to put yourself at risk. The smart buyer buys slightly used one or two year old vehicles (with ABS, side air bags, etc) and doesn't keep them as their primary means of transportation indefinitely unless they have collector value.
 
I see the word 'modern' thrown about quite a bit. BGK, when did 'modern' begin? 2007? 2000? Just picking at you, I guess you mean 'current' crash standards. BTW, how much do you think they have really changed in 10-20 years?
 
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I see the word 'modern' thrown about quite a bit. BGK, when did 'modern' begin? 2007? 2000? Just picking at you, I guess you mean 'current' crash standards. BTW, how much do you think they have really changed in 10-20 years?




Actually ALOT! There wasn't any kind of side-impact protection standard until 1997. There rollover standards were tightened up about 10 years ago, and they're pushing to tighten them up again. In 1995 they started testing offset frontal crash tests and most cars didn't do well in those tests until about 1998.

The only cars I feel safe in that are older than 10 years old are my old Jaguars with HUGE B-pillars, Volvos, and SUVs (only because they're up higher- however I'm risking rollovers because of the height). When I bought my '07 Volvo, I sold off a '98 Neon, simply because I didn't feel safe in it anymore, otherwise I would have soldiered on in the Neon for another 100k miles. After I saw a Dodge Ram stuffed into the passenger side of a Neon on my way to work one morning and the bumper of the ram cut through the b-pillar like it was made of hot butter, that was enough for me...!
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I'm just glad my 2006 Saab 93 has a metal intake manifold. Maybe that's because it's turbocharged? Anyone know of any turbocharged engines with a plastic intake manifold?




Yes. My Subaru Legacy GT with a 2.5L turbo motor (civilized version of STI motor). ALso the current 2008 gyration of the Subaru WRX has a similar setup.
 
Yeah some of the Toyota truck V6's had head gasket issues!! Their is no getting around that but it was select year's. I will also be the first to admit that not only do all companies make some lemons the vechile owner is partly to blame in many case's. I heard a Toyota Carolla that sounded very bad and I am sure it is becuase the Hottie behind the wheel has not checked her oil in a long long time. The car looked like it just rolled off the line as far as the interior and exterior were concerned. You could see slight puff's of burning oil or smoke comeing from under hood. She had obviously driven it dry or oil and maybe coolant as well. So sometimes the lack of PM is the killer.
 
A friend of mine just had the low-beam wiring burn up on a 2001 Honda Civic with about 120K on it. The wiring melted right where it connects to the multifunction switch on the column. The switch carries the entire load of the low-beam headlights.


See, that's why I went crazy with the Deoxit D5 on my Saab...

He's gonna put the headlights on relays (like they should have been from the factory...). Interestingly enough, there ARE headlight relays in this car, but they appear to only be for some sort of battery rundown protection--they do nothing to take the load off the multifunction switch, they only serve to disconnect the headlight circuit from 12V.
 
I just saw this article on Yahoo.com. I ran over here to post it. WAAAY late!

Anyway, what surprised me was how many bad bets were expensive foreign cars. So much for the whole 'you get what you pay for' line of thinking. And so much for the foreign is always better school of thought.
 
I don't understand this 'parts' availability issue.
Parts that don't need replacing frequently are not stocked.
What would you rather drive? a vehicle that has every part in stock at the local store? or a vehicle that doesn't?
Think a little!
 
IMO and my experience, making a vehicle last for 200K+ miles or decades takes
either a very large bank account or an outstanding shade tree mechanic skill set.

After a certain mileage, parts just wear out regardless of the make.Chevy, BMW, Toyota. Beyond typical tune up stuff like plugs & wires,you got to know how install exhaust parts like mufflers and drum brakes and flush the transmission - not just drain it like oil, but flush the fluid out. Automatic trannies can be troublesome (across all makes lately) and fluid should be replaced frequently,IMO the official flush interval is sorely insufficient.

Then there are inevitable electrical problems. At the very least go to be proficient with the multimeter and electrical/vacuum manuals. Also power window motors inevitably fail.

Then there are dents, like parking lot fender benders or deer accidents. So you should know body work and painting. I am not even getting into rust.

Water pump, fan belts, radiator, radiator hoses, timing belts.Good luck with the latter if you have a FWD V6, one of these side -mounted motors, especially foreign. I did timing belts once on a FWD V6 Mazda, took me 6 hours. The car had extremely poor engine bay design, very low serviceability factor IMO.

I had to take apart the throttle body to access the starter!! Once I put everything back together, it didn't run right!! Took me 3 weeks to realize I should have used a gasket instead of blue sealant stuff with the throttle body, because an air leak was created which confused the IAC sensor and
the car was stalling, and getting about 12mpg instead of usual 25. The fuel filter on it was another extremely difficult to reach part, buried in the engine bay. What a nightmare car it was.

Granted, all this was a learning experience but still not a DIY job for those not familiar with it. Domestics can be a pain also, like compact Ford cars. Very little room to wrench under there.

AC work? Conversion from R12 to the new system? Or compressor/clutch work. Big bucks, or DIY and you need expensive equipment for that, not to mention the paperwork.

Past say 180K you may need valve adjustment. So you have to tear into the motor. Timing belts need replacement every 80K miles according to manuals, but even timing chains may need replacement at high mileage. Another nightmare job.

Fuel pump go bad. It's a big job to drop the tank, and how do you do it if it's full and heavy? Injectors go bad, coil packs. Will have to replace the entire starting systems more than likely if the vehicle is 15+ years, depending on the climate - corrosion is a problem. Battery, starter and starter relay, alternator, cables.

The brake systems go bad. May have to replace the entire brake system from the master cylinder to brake lines to calipers. I once had a total failure of the brake system,let me tell you, it was scary. Turns out air got into the
master cylinder somehow, which damaged the brake fluid. A by product of air in the system is water. Water corroded the calipers and other parts, which were then sticking, overheating and failing. I ended up replacing *all* the parts
involved.

The vehicle was 17 years old at the time, 90K miles, and age is what did it to it. OK, I could have replaced the brake fluid more often, but with old cars, you never know what will fail next - and some of it is just dangerous. So if you become an expert with Ford EFI and reading trouble codes, you
may still need to become an expert in other areas, too.

There is a good chance the auto tranny may need replacement after 180K miles, can you do that? At least the very least you should frequently (like once per year) flush the tranny oil and install a auxillary tranny cooler because heat
is a major contributor to tranny failure. I think it goes like this: Heat destroyes the fluid, which no longer does its job and the tranny failes. You can also detect failure by smelling it, a toast tranny will have its fluid smell burned.

I think certain vehicles are more conducive to DIY work, like a compact pickup with a 5 speed? The engine bay is fairly open, but it's not going to get very good MPG.

I think the article above presumed that the mechanical work wouldn't get done DIY route... most people's aren't interested in changing time belts, you know.

The worst aspect of it, mechanic prices are expensive these days and absolutely exorbitant in large metro areas. I have been quoted - to overhaul the entire braking system $1,000. Timing belt, $800. Tune up, $500. This adds
up very quickly. If you are not a DIY type, budget at least $1,000 annually for repairs, maybe much more. Repairs can be expensive even via the DIY route,
as parts are expensive, e.q. catalytic converters, AC compressors on newer cars.
 
The expense of a vehicle when it gets old can vary greatly. Here, you see a lot of mid-'90s Infinitis in junkyards probably because they were nickel and diming their owners to death. On the other hand, I doubt it will take much to keep my truck going to 200K and beyond. There are no power window motors to go out, there are no power locks, everything is manual. Changing the transmission fluid is about as complicated as changing the engine oil, everything except the spark plugs are easy to reach, and the intervals for things like the timing belt are pretty long.
 
One thing not factored into CRs report is the shops that needlessly add repairs to a vehicle to pad their bill. That, and doing repairs to guarantee future problems. I read an honest mechanic once say that you just about need to be a crook to make any kind of good money in automotive repair. This lends more credence to pacem's statement that you need to be a DIYer to make it to 200K. People really hate to shell out money month after month on a scratch and dent car that doesn't impress anybody.
 
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