Mahle Filters?

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Originally Posted By: sayjac

Also, nowhere did I quote you nor re: your display name in my post, very polite and pc imo. So with that said, if you don't wish to read my posts for whatever reason, opinion or perception you have, there is an 'ignore' feature on the forum of which you can avail yourself for my posts.
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Nope, I won't be ignoring you. I'll to continue to gaze on everything BITOG has to offer, from the gems to the trash.
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Originally Posted By: stephen9666
Originally Posted By: sayjac

Also, nowhere did I quote you nor re: your display name in my post, very polite and pc imo. So with that said, if you don't wish to read my posts for whatever reason, opinion or perception you have, there is an 'ignore' feature on the forum of which you can avail yourself for my posts.
cheers3.gif



Nope, I won't be ignoring you. I'll to continue to gaze on everything BITOG has to offer, from the gems to the trash.
11.gif


Cool, duly noted, your call. Though that may require a thick(er) skin sometimes too.
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Originally Posted By: stephen9666
My Hyundai got a bad knock with a Champ Labs made STP filter. I put on an OE filter and it went away. That was 45k miles ago.

In fact, here's a recording of the sound it made:



Wonder is there was something internally wrong/defective with that oil filter? Did you cut it open to look?

I just can't imagine how an oiling system can be that sensitive to an oil filter, especially if the oiling system uses a positive displacement oil pump. I'm not familiar with Hyundai engines, but maybe they use some kind of different oil pump that is effected by slight flow restriction differences from the oil filter?
 
The knocking is caused by defective anti-drain back valves. To me, the cartridge doesn't have this feature, so it shouldn't be an issue.
 
Originally Posted By: Philth
The knocking is caused by defective anti-drain back valves. To me, the cartridge doesn't have this feature, so it shouldn't be an issue.


Have any links? I'd be interested in reading them.

That isn't confirmed, that I've seen, but is just one of the theories. I've never seen any reliable info that proves exactly why the knocking happens. Everything I've read is just assumptions or guesses. Hyundai has never said why it happens, that I've read, at least.

But again, I've only seen one example posted of a knock with a cartridge filter, which I posted earlier. So I agree you'll probably be fine with whatever you use.
 
Originally Posted By: Philth
The knocking is caused by defective anti-drain back valves. To me, the cartridge doesn't have this feature, so it shouldn't be an issue.

Correct, the cartridge itself doesn't have an intergal adbv as a spin on/canister does. Any adbv device/mechansim would be in the cartridge housing on the engine. Again, that tsb is primarily directed at canister filter applications. As said though, based on some Hyundai specific forum reading I have little doubt that some unscrupulous Hyundai service departments may be quick to blame a non oem filter of any type, for totally unrelated engine issues, using said tsb.

Originally Posted By: stephen9666
....But again, I've only seen one example posted of a knock with a cartridge filter, which I posted earlier..... .

Which example was that? I must have missed it. The 07 Sonata 2.4 youtube you posted uses a spin on/canister filter.
 
Originally Posted By: stephen9666
My Hyundai got a bad knock with a Champ Labs made STP filter. I put on an OE filter and it went away. That was 45k miles ago.

In fact, here's a recording of the sound it made:



This video makes it sound like the knocking never really went away after the engine ran for a little while. If so, then it's more than just a leaking ADBV when the engine is off. If it was just the ADBV, then the knocking should stop after 5 seconds of running.

So was the engine always knocking near idle, even after it was ran and warmed up?
 
Originally Posted By: sayjac

Which example was that? I must have missed it. The 07 Sonata 2.4 youtube you posted uses a spin on/canister filter.

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/181-nf-200...e-knocking.html

And, I didn't just post that video. I took that video. That's my car. But, you may already know that.

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix


This video makes it sound like the knocking never really went away after the engine ran for a little while. If so, then it's more than just a leaking ADBV when the engine is off. If it was just the ADBV, then the knocking should stop after 5 seconds of running.

So was the engine always knocking near idle, even after it was ran and warmed up?


As you point out, some people incorrectly think the knocking is only at start up. The TSBs don't say anything about start up rattle. In my case it wasn't a start up rattle, it was a knock while the engine was running. When I made the recording the engine was at full temp and I had been driving it around when the knock started. I stopped at a nearby place and had a friend rev the engine. It sounds like it may be the timing chain hitting the cover, but that's just a guess.

Originally Posted By: sayjac
based on some Hyundai specific forum reading I have little doubt that some unscrupulous Hyundai service departments may be quick to blame a non oem filter of any type, for totally unrelated engine issues, using said tsb.

Have any links?

I don't remember seeing threads claiming that on Hyundai-Forums, but I may have missed them. Even though I'm no dealer hater, I don't doubt it could happen.
 
Originally Posted By: stephen9666
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix

This video makes it sound like the knocking never really went away after the engine ran for a little while. If so, then it's more than just a leaking ADBV when the engine is off. If it was just the ADBV, then the knocking should stop after 5 seconds of running.

So was the engine always knocking near idle, even after it was ran and warmed up?


As you point out, some people incorrectly think the knocking is only at start up. The TSBs don't say anything about start up rattle. In my case it wasn't a start up rattle, it was a knock while the engine was running. When I made the recording the engine was at full temp and I had been driving it around when the knock started. I stopped at a nearby place and had a friend rev the engine. It sounds like it may be the timing chain hitting the cover, but that's just a guess.


That's kind of crazy that an engine is so sensitive to an oil filter. Did you ever inspect the old filter to see if there was anything wrong or defective with it? I just can't wrap my head around an engine's oiling system being so sensitive to an oil filter, because any oil filter should flow way more than any engine can put out. Wonder if you got some piece of garbage counterfeit filter that was super restrictive or something?

Do these engines have a positive displacement oil pump, or is it some strange setup (ie, electric, constant pressure, etc)?
 
Zee, I'm with you. Someone needs to explain, in technical terms, how and why an engine would knock with one brand of filter and not with another. Not talking about startup noise (I'm a skeptic there too but let's not go there). There isn't enough restriction difference between brands generally to make any substantial difference in flow so I don't see what could be happening relating to the oil filter as the sole cause.
 
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
Zee, I'm with you. Someone needs to explain, in technical terms, how and why an engine would knock with one brand of filter and not with another.


Unfortunately, I've never seen any reliable explanation from Hyundai or a knowledgable source. There are some "this is what my mechanic told me" explanations, but I don't put too much faith in those.

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix

That's kind of crazy that an engine is so sensitive to an oil filter. Did you ever inspect the old filter to see if there was anything wrong or defective with it? I just can't wrap my head around an engine's oiling system being so sensitive to an oil filter, because any oil filter should flow way more than any engine can put out. Wonder if you got some piece of garbage counterfeit filter that was super restrictive or something?

Do these engines have a positive displacement oil pump, or is it some strange setup (ie, electric, constant pressure, etc)?


Well, I apologize to the OP for this thread going way off topic, but now that we're delving into this I'm going to take it farther off topic by sharing some info I found recently.

I wasn't able to inspect the filter. I took it to a dealer when it started knocking because I had just had it there a couple days before for another reason, so they agreed to look at it for free. They put on an OE filter and the knocking stopped. I forgot to ask for the old filter back, so I never was able to dissect it.

I've been googling this issue for a while and not too long ago I stumbled on to something that may be related to your point.

While thinking about this issue one day I decided to look at replacement oil pumps for this car, just to see what they looked like. This car uses an oil pump that's integrated into a balance shaft assembly that goes inside the oil pan. So, you can't buy just an oil pump, you have to buy an entire balance shaft assembly that retails for something like $600.

And, I found an SAE paper talking about the oil pump design, which is described as sharing the oil pumping duty between two smaller pumps. I'm not willing to buy the paper, but here's the link and the abstract:
http://papers.sae.org/2006-01-0405/
Quote:
The Balance Shaft/Oil Pump Module for the new Hyundai Sonata NF Inline 4-cylinder engine family combines excellent NVH (noise, vibration and harshness, or “pleasibility”) and power consumption performance with minimized contribution to oil aeration. A two-stage drive ratio step-up and a balance shaft operating shape control strategy help minimize drive system noise emissions. Oil system noise emissions are minimized by dividing work between two gerotor pumps, and by the avoidance of cavitation at high speeds. Oil system performance benefits include high displacement at low speeds without attendant high power consumption or risk of cavitation at high speeds. A jet pump is used to efficiently recycle unused engine oil at high speeds, to both preserve energy and to resist cavitation, by boosting inlet pressure to the low speed flow-supplementing gerotor.


So, is this oil pump design somehow related to the knocking some owners experience? I have no idea and I've never read anything reliable that makes a connection.

Here's an image from my service manual showing the balance shaft module, as Hyundai calls it (red rectangle added by me):
Sonataoilpumpbalanceshaft_zps1e600349.jpg
 
Can you post the top end? Curious about the variable valve timing, cam gear/actuator, oil control valve, etc. I've stated before on other threads that IMO its not ADB, its a flow restriction somewhere. Weak pump, block design/flow issue, like at the vvt, for example.
 
Quote:
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/181-nf-200...e-knocking.html


As I said, I didn't see the link example, must have missed it.

However I do have several cogent thoughts on that thread. It was the dealer's opinion that some as yet unknown aftermarket filter may have been responsible. Yet, his mechanic called [censored] on that opinion. An alternative theory could be that the filter, of unknown brand and origin (according to link) was improperly installed in the housing, or some other installation error like forgetting to istall or reusing that same lower o-ring gasket on the central stem in the housing. Several leaps in that thread that ultimately prove nothing regarding true causation imo.

As for the posted video, again canister filter, apples and oranges compared with cartridge imo.
 
Originally Posted By: sayjac
It was the dealer's opinion that some as yet unknown aftermarket filter may have been responsible. Yet, his mechanic called [censored] on that opinion.

My take was that his mechanic friend called shenanigans on it because he wasn't familiar with Hyundais or the TSBs warning about a knock with aftermarket filters. I'm sure many of our experiences with other vehicles would lead us to believe a filter wouldn't normally cause a knock, but evidently that's not the case with some Hyundais.

If you weren't familiar with this specific issue on Hyundais, it would be easy to think it was a bad diagnosis, because it's not a common issue on other vehicles.

The person who posted the thread in question also didn't seem to be aware of the TSBs before he posted. But in the end, he claimed a new filter fixed it. Now, could it have been an improper installation? Perhaps.

Originally Posted By: flagolfnut;1227524
The dealer is telling me that it can be caused by aftermarket filters and o-rings, so he is changing the oil and going to test the car again in the morning.

My mechanic friend is calling bull, that an engine knock is an engine knock and they need to honor the warranty. Tomorrow should be an interesting morning.

I will probably have to insist that they open up the motor...
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Can you post the top end? Curious about the variable valve timing, cam gear/actuator, oil control valve, etc.


Here are a few more pics.

I just had the valve cover off a few days ago and I took pics, but my girlfriend has the camera and she's on a trip right now so I can't access them.

I believe only the intake cam has VVT. I'm just going off memory and looking at the pics, though. I could be misremembering.

You'll see this is a basic timing chain design. The actuator, or the "CVVT Assembly," is attached to the intake cam.

Sonatatopend_zps51348106.jpg





Sonatavalveactuator_zpsf6e38944.jpg


Sonatatopend2_zps6179bb98.jpg
 
When I did my first oil change on our 2012 KIA I was surprised to find the previous KIA dealer oil change had been with a Mahle cartridge filter and Quaker State Conventional.

I replaced it with a Napa Gold cartridge 5,500 miles ago and no issues to report.
 
Quote:
...But in the end, he claimed a new filter fixed it.

So he may have thought based on the fact the dealer said they did an oil and filter change. Frankly sounded like the OP of that thread had absolutely no idea what caused his issue except for an idea suggested to him several times on that thread. The OP never said the tech told him the filter was at fault, but gave a general explanation which he was unable to repeat, of what can/could happen.

Again, many leaps in that thread with lots of room for doubt as to actual causation.

Back to the topic at hand, another member confirming a Napa Gold cartridge working quite nicely in his Kia engine.
 
But the facts of that thread are that his car with a cartridge filter was knocking, and replacing the oil filter as part of an oil change at the dealer fixed it. I don't think that's too much of a "leap."

But I digress, I'm done with this thread. I wish the OP luck with whatever filter he chooses.
 
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