Magnefine Filter Question II

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Is the Magnefine really that good?

Do tranny's really make that much debris?

Does the magnet do much in there? I thought most of a transmission would be non-ferrous metals.

Anyone have pictures of one installed and how hard was it to do?
 
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If you have rubber lines connecting transmission to cooler its a snap. All metal probably harder.

Determine return line (the one that is slightly cooler).
Hold the Magnefine along the hose to see where it should go and not bang into other parts.
Cut off about 3-4" of hose and insert hose from cooler into inlet side Magnefine (the filter has an arrow for flow direction.) Put a water bottle or similar over the outlet side of Magnefine, start engine and verify ATF is coming out into the water bottle. If so stop end and connect up remaining hose.

The Magnefine has a magnet and 35 micron paper media filter.

If I had a truck I might go with a spin on filter as they filter to a better micron, but in many cars, no room and the Magnefine is much much better than nothing.

Buy from our sponsor and you will get free clamps. Not included if you buy from NAPA. You can email sponsor also and ask what hose size, although most are 3/8".
 
This is a picture of one installed.....in the line going back INTO the transmission from the coolers......so the flow arrow points toward the transmission.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1335969027011220610OiEiLN

You need to know the hose size.....then order the correct size filter. If things are super tight in there.....then you can get some high quality hose and use that to locate the filter so that you don't have any super tight turns, etc.
Each installation is unique.....
 
Here is a link to the first of 4 pictures that show details of the insides of the Magnefine filter.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2014962520011220610RLvddU

I realize that the installed picture is not the best.....kind of tight in there, and it is tough to get a good picture.

Here is a picture that shows a magnefine filter installed in my power steering line that is a bit more clear.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1334942382011220610PicgSc

The power steering line filter shows what I mean about adding some extra hose to make the installation better.
 
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Transmissions dont make debris unless they are grenaded. Ford even tells us to reuse transmission filters during rebuilds if it isnt contaminated.

An aftermarket filter is pretty much a giant waste of money. The magnefine in the picture is the EXACT same filter ford ships out in the reman tranny boxes to filter out the pieces from the cooler that joe blow doesnt flush out.

About your magnets...I have a big stack of them on my bench, they dont really serve a purpose but a visual indicater of, yup your transmission is blown, so I dont put them back in the trannys I build.
 
Originally Posted By: Rustyknife
Transmissions dont make debris unless they are grenaded. Ford even tells us to reuse transmission filters during rebuilds if it isnt contaminated.

An aftermarket filter is pretty much a giant waste of money. The magnefine in the picture is the EXACT same filter ford ships out in the reman tranny boxes to filter out the pieces from the cooler that joe blow doesnt flush out.

About your magnets...I have a big stack of them on my bench, they dont really serve a purpose but a visual indicater of, yup your transmission is blown, so I dont put them back in the trannys I build.


Rusty your statement is total bull pucky! Transmissions (when new) do make a TON of ferrous and non ferrous debris. I just did a pan drop, filter change, and magnafine install on my friends 2004 heritage edition F-150 with 55,000 mi on the odo. The magnet was covered in a metalic sludge about 1/4 inch thick and the fluid was very dark. The trans shifts fine, and with a top off of Valvoline full syn Mercon V fluid and the magnafine it should last for quite a while. I'm positive that the trans will continue to shed more ferrous particulate, but the magnafine and fresh sceen filter should keep what ever wear that is produced from normal operation from exponentially increasing the wear rate by contaminating the fluid further!
 
I will second that... When my tranny was new I changed the fluid every 10,000KM for the first 30,000 KM and the magnet on the drain plug was thickly coated with stuff and the fluid was a dirty colour. Since then I change it every 50,000KM and now there is hardly anything on the plug at all and the fluid comes out almost new.
 
yes, I'm just a lowly automatic tranmission specialist with Ford motor company for a living, what would I know? I dont care what ritualistic things you want to perform to your tranny to make it last forever, if it helps you sleep better at night thats great, but I will provide you with facts from my been there done that experiences. Take it or leave it.
 
So Rusty...what is ferrous metal in the trannys? The fins in the torque converter?

Do they make some debris at first break in?
 
I think with synthetic ATF and a filter such as a Magnefine you can certainly get more life out of a transmission, assuming its not a problem one to start with. There are a few cars that have a spin on transmission filter (some years of Honda CRV I think) so some vehicle manufacturers think inline transmission filter are a good idea.
 
Originally Posted By: Rustyknife
yes, I'm just a lowly automatic tranmission specialist with Ford motor company for a living, what would I know? I dont care what ritualistic things you want to perform to your tranny to make it last forever, if it helps you sleep better at night thats great, but I will provide you with facts from my been there done that experiences. Take it or leave it.


Sorry Bro, not impressed, I've personally opened up and rebuilt transmissions in everything from a Ford truck to porshce 914 and everything in between, and I'm telling you you are wrong. Regular maintenance and better filtration absolutely will extend the life of any automatic transmission.
 
Ford Motor Company (and every other as well) are primarily concerned with getting through the warranty period without repairs, and design vehicles around a 100k service life. Anything you can do to improve the odds helps, esp. if you want to keep the car for a long time.
 
Most of it is ferrous actually, but you typically dont see any wear on the gears and such unless a bushing has failed. If you see sludge on the magnet its metal from the friction but it shouldnt be there unless its been abused most likely the friction in the torque converter clutch, its common to take apart 150k mile transmissions and still see writing on the surface of the bands and friction discs....they dont wear out without a reason....I hear people say they wear out like brake pads all the time, but this couldnt be further from the truth.


But friction dust is always circulating in the fluid and causes no harm.

If the magnet looks like a cha cha cha chia pet, its done.

As far as break in for an automatic transmission...it doesnt really need one. Full throttle launches are fine right after install.

Main source of debris is the torque converter, if the clutch starts coming apart in the torque converter it can very easily wipe out the whole transmission.

I have taken many torque converters out of the box and had to send them back because you could visually see metal debris inside from manufacture...hope that answers what you wanted, feel free to ask questions, I'm glad to help
 
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Originally Posted By: Rustyknife
Most of it is ferrous actually, but you typically dont see any wear on the gears and such unless a bushing has failed. If you see sludge on the magnet its metal from the friction but it shouldnt be there unless its been abused most likely the friction in the torque converter clutch, its common to take apart 150k mile transmissions and still see writing on the surface of the bands and friction discs....they dont wear out without a reason....I hear people say they wear out like brake pads all the time, but this couldnt be further from the truth.


But friction dust is always circulating in the fluid and causes no harm.

If the magnet looks like a cha cha cha chia pet, its done.

As far as break in for an automatic transmission...it doesnt really need one. Full throttle launches are fine right after install.

Main source of debris is the torque converter, if the clutch starts coming apart in the torque converter it can very easily wipe out the whole transmission.

I have taken many torque converters out of the box and had to send them back because you could visually see metal debris inside from manufacture...hope that answers what you wanted, feel free to ask questions, I'm glad to help


So is the fact that the paint is burned off on the outside of my Vigillante convertor and showing a perfect outline of the clutch a bad sign?
LOL.gif
 
Ford actually has a part number for the Magnefine filter, because they expect it to be used when replacing a transmission.

TSB
00-23-10


* TRANSMISSION - FLUID IN-LINE FILTER KIT - REPEAT REPAIRS OF TRANSMISSION - SERVICE TIPS

Publication Date: NOVEMBER 6, 2000

FORD:
1980-1997 THUNDERBIRD
1980-2001 CROWN VICTORIA
1984-2001 MUSTANG
1985-1990 BRONCO II
1985-2001 RANGER
1987-1997 AEROSTAR
1989-1996 BRONCO
1989-1997 F SUPER DUTY, F-250 HD
1989-2001 ECONOLINE, F-150, F-250 LD, F-350, F-450
1991-2002 EXPLORER
1997-2001 EXPEDITION
1999-2001 F-250 HD, SUPER DUTY F SERIES
2000-2001 EXCURSION
LINCOLN:
1982-2001 TOWN CAR
2000-2001 LS
1998-2001 NAVIGATOR
MERCURY:
1980-2001 GRAND MARQUIS
1987-1997 COUGAR
1997-2002 MOUNTAINEER

This TSB article is being republished in its entirety to update model applications and model years.
ISSUE:

Contamination from prior transmission concerns or excess wear may be trapped in the transmission fluid cooling system. This debris must be removed by properly cleaning the transmission cooling system. After cleaning, some contamination may still remain. The remaining contamination may be reintroduced into the fluid cooling system of a repaired/replaced transmission causing premature or repeat failures.
ACTION:

After every overhaul or transmission exchange, clean, flush and backflush the transmission fluid cooling system which includes: fluid cooler, auxiliary cooler, cooler lines, and Cooler Bypass Valve (CBV), if equipped. Perform the cooler flow test to ensure proper transmission fluid flow volume on the transmission return line through the cooling system. Once proper fluid flow volume is verified install the Transmission Fluid In-Line Filter Kit (XC3Z-7B155-AA) in the fluid cooler return line (transmission fluid flow coming out of the fluid cooler going into the transmission). Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE

NOTE: THIS IN-LINE TRANSMISSION FLUID FILTER KIT CAN BE INSTALLED ON ALL TRANSMISSIONS WITH 8mm (5/16") AND 9.5mm (3/8") TRANSMISSION FLUID COOLER LINES.

NOTE: THIS IN-LINE TRANSMISSION FLUID FILTER KIT WILL ALSO BE SUPPLIED WITH ALL E4OD/4R100 AND OTHER FORD QUALITY REMANUFACTURED (FQR) TRANSMISSIONS. AFTER ANY OVERHAUL OR TRANSMISSION EXCHANGE PRIOR TO CONNECTING THE TRANSMISSION FLUID COOLING SYSTEM TO THE TRANSMISSION, FOLLOW THE STEPS BELOW.

1. Clean, flush and backflush transmission fluid cooling system.

NOTE:
 
So is the thought that these filters do not catch anything or that what they catch does not matter in a normal transmision situation? People have cut them apart and they do have stuff in them. It would seem better for your transmission to have that stuff in the filter rather than somewhere in the transmission.
I think we would all agree that there are better (lower micron) filters available, but they do take more room and in many cars there is really not a lot of room for a spin on and its associated mount.
 
It's probably less of an issue with trannies that don't have bands. There the drums shed forever. The stuff that the magnefine catches will not see the lubrication part of the circuit (on mine and a few others) before hitting the sump.
 
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