Should the MAF be cleaned? (I use standard paper air filters.) Any tips or advice?
MAF sensor cleaning?
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I generally clean mine once a year or every 30k, when I change the air filter. I use a paper element also, but I have still cleaned goo off the element. I use CRC maf sensor cleaner and get it at Carquest for about 4.00 a can. (4.6 liter ford modular)
crc maf clearner as well. at least once per year. it is cheap, super easy and FAST! no reason not to do it IMO.
should be obvious, but do NOT touch the maf with the nozzle tip (or finger/q-tip).
should be obvious, but do NOT touch the maf with the nozzle tip (or finger/q-tip).
Buy a can of spray dedicated MAF cleaner.
It will last a long time and do many cars.
Take the MAF off to clean it.
Don't waste the cleaner on throttle bodies or brakes. It is special because it leaves no residue of it's own.
It will last a long time and do many cars.
Take the MAF off to clean it.
Don't waste the cleaner on throttle bodies or brakes. It is special because it leaves no residue of it's own.
You can use any electronics cleaner.
Back in the day of my thunderbirds, we would use qtips and windex. That worked fine with a delicate hand, but now I recommend using some electronic parts cleaner.
That works great.
Back in the day of my thunderbirds, we would use qtips and windex. That worked fine with a delicate hand, but now I recommend using some electronic parts cleaner.
That works great.
that's good advice too, i disconnect the MAF completely and spray it with the QD Electronic Parts Cleaner. I've even taken a Q-tip to it, but don't recommend it as the wires are easy to damage
You can not use any electronics cleaner. Many have lubricant in them. Others are unsuitable.
Be very careful about this.
A quick test is to spray whatever cleaner on a mirror and let it dry. There should be NO residue left.
Some brake cleaners can be used [non chlorinated], but just get the MAF cleaner. It works and is safe.
Be very careful about this.
A quick test is to spray whatever cleaner on a mirror and let it dry. There should be NO residue left.
Some brake cleaners can be used [non chlorinated], but just get the MAF cleaner. It works and is safe.
Will do!
There are two different types of MAF sensors today . One is the wire type the other is the thin film type.
In any case the safest product to use leaving no film residue or damage to plastics is CRC QD electronics cleaner or MAF cleaner they are the same product.
In any case the safest product to use leaving no film residue or damage to plastics is CRC QD electronics cleaner or MAF cleaner they are the same product.
JHZR2
Staff member
Just did two today - my 98 truck (had thin wires) and my 91 BMW (had a small round item that stuck into the airstream).
I dont know about their claims, but my truck seems to idle a tad bit smoother... being a 90 degree big V6, it has a little shake at idle, but it seems to have decreased!!!
JMH
I dont know about their claims, but my truck seems to idle a tad bit smoother... being a 90 degree big V6, it has a little shake at idle, but it seems to have decreased!!!
JMH
I cleaned the throttle body and the MAF sensor on my 97 Avalon--never been done before.
Now it idles at 1500 RPM rather than 750....
Now it idles at 1500 RPM rather than 750....
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
You can not use any electronics cleaner. Many have lubricant in them. Others are unsuitable. Some brake cleaners can be used [non chlorinated], but just get the MAF cleaner.
the QD Electronic Parts Cleaner leaves basically no residue, about 10X less than Brakleen (non chlor) and even less than isopropyl i would think
You can not use any electronics cleaner. Many have lubricant in them. Others are unsuitable. Some brake cleaners can be used [non chlorinated], but just get the MAF cleaner.
the QD Electronic Parts Cleaner leaves basically no residue, about 10X less than Brakleen (non chlor) and even less than isopropyl i would think
Unless your engine is running poorly, I see no reason to try to clean the MAF. Why fix what is working well and take a chance in making things worse. Seen too many MAFs screwed up cosing $$ to replace because someone had nothing better to do. I'm just getting lazy or long term experience is setting in? Ed
I've had good experiences using the QD electronics cleaner on the MAF sensors on both my old Hyundai Elantra and my fiance's Escort. Now off to Harbor Freight to get the security Torx bits needed for one on my Buick LeSabre. I figure 9 years is long enough between cleaning intervals.
Lots of guys on another forum have blown MAF sensors by failing to disconnect the neg terminal and then shorting them on SR or CAI intake tubes. Instant "limp" mode and no revs above 3k.
Yep, the MAF sensor is one of those you don't monkey with unless it is giving you problems. If aint broke...
if you run the oiled K&N filters you must clean your MAF. the wires turn black. i disconnect the MAF from the harness before removing so it's isolated when i pull it
That's why I ditched the K&N's. There should be some sort of action taken against these folks, oh wait that's what AEM dryflow and Amsoil EA Air filters will do!! It's funny if you call K&N about your MAF malfunctioning because of their product they tell you that you're on crack because, "when used properly"...whatever! Parts counter guys like K&N's oiled set-up because they sell MAF's and MAF cleaner to people that clean and reuse their K&N's. Dry dirt and cellulose fiber elements don't cause the wires in a MAF to get gummed up...bad PCV and oil type filters will though. Rant over...don't clean the MAF unless it looks gummed and/or presents issues. Just my $.02...rant now officially over.
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