MAF and Throttle body issues? 2015 Nissan sentra sr

R_idling

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Montreal, QC
Hi,

I hope you are doing well...

I've had an issue with a persistant MAF sensor code.

I also experience rough idle when i stop at a light. Surprisingly, when my A/C is on, my idle is stable.

I replaced my MAF with a Hitachi model from rockauto, I did an idle relearn myself It was good for a while,
but then it restarted again.

When i went to the dealership for my transmission fluid change, they suggested I clean the throttle body, but would not do it because I had an "after market MAF".

Should i have the throttle body cleaned at an independant mechanic? Is there a chance this might improve?
Or should i just replace it the throttle body by an AISIN model?

Should i just buy a new nissan MAF(450$ vs 150$ Hitachi after market model) ?

What do you suggest? I don't know what to do anymore.

Thank you

PS: I had my spark plugs changed at a 95 000 km.
 
Seems like you may have a CAI. It is not an oiled unit is it?

I actually had a factory Nissan filter mess up my maf. The thing was soaked in mineral oil from the factory. After a cleaning with CRC MAF cleaner, Replaced the filter with a low efficieny STP and the car ran great.
Possible you have a connector issue?
Why does the dealer care if you have an aftermarket MAF on an out of warranty vehicle.

Q: 1) How does the car run/respond off idle? The primary lambda sensor is critical also here.
2) Are the spark plugs exact O.E. p/n that came out?
3) Do you run Top Tier fuel, have you installed an Injector cleaner recently like Cheveron Techron or Gumout Regaine?
4) Do you have a maf code currently?

Do not pay 450$ for an O.E. MAF.
 
Maybe Your Nissan dealer knows something about your Nissan that Rock Auto doesn't? Maybe the Hitachi sensor is not the same quality as the Hitachi? I don't know, but you may want to save up you $ and set up an appt. with you Nissan dealership to get it running right, unless they are known locally to be crooks. After that thought, ask around, find a reputable private local shop that has been in business 10 or more years, and brace yourself, they may fix it right also, using that same $450.00 sensor that they buy from your local Nissan dealer. Good Luck!
 
Seems like you may have a CAI. It is not an oiled unit is it?
Sorry, I am a noob.
If by CAI, do you mean cold air intake, my guess is no because the car is as it came from factory.

Could I have a cracked hose?

I actually had a factory Nissan filter mess up my maf. The thing was soaked in mineral oil from the factory. After a cleaning with CRC MAF cleaner, Replaced the filter with a low efficieny STP and the car ran great.
I have a generic WIX filter from rockauto that is not oiled. I could buy some MAF cleaner but since i replaced the previous one, I was thinking it might be useful to solve the problem at the source before cleaning the newer MAF?
Possible you have a connector issue?
It is possible but I wouldn't know how to diagnose it, and I do not have a private driveway to work on my car.
Why does the dealer care if you have an aftermarket MAF on an out of warranty vehicle.
It felt like they might have been trying to upsell me. They claimed that: reprogramming the ECM with my aftermarket MAF would damage their scanner,
Q: 1) How does the car run/respond off idle?
When I start, it's okay. After driving for a while, the idle becomes rough when i stop at a light.
The primary lambda sensor is critical also here.
Can I check that with an obd2 scanner? Where do I look?
2) Are the spark plugs exact O.E. p/n that came out?
I am not sure, I bought some iridium NGK sparkplugs when the idle issues first started. Thinking it would make a difference. It did not.

For the P/N, I can't tell. When the independent mechanic took it out, I didn't compare.
3) Do you run Top Tier fuel,
I get my fuel from Shell (87). Not premium but the quality seems decent.
have you installed an Injector cleaner recently like Cheveron Techron or Gumout Regaine?
No, I haven't
4) Do you have a maf code currently?
Not displaying right now, but I cleared one, myself, 2 weeks ago. I think the code is persistent in the background.
Do not pay 450$ for an O.E. MAF.
I am hoping i don't have to
 
Maybe Your Nissan dealer knows something about your Nissan that Rock Auto doesn't? Maybe the Hitachi sensor is not the same quality as the Hitachi? I don't know, but you may want to save up you $ and set up an appt. with you Nissan dealership to get it running right, unless they are known locally to be crooks. After that thought, ask around, find a reputable private local shop that has been in business 10 or more years, and brace yourself, they may fix it right also, using that same $450.00 sensor that they buy from your local Nissan dealer. Good Luck!
The nissan dealership that I went to felt like crooks. I am unable to find a reputable knowlegeable shop to diagnose my issue properly.

I don't mind paying the 450, if it actually fixes my issue. I am also concerned that my rough idle might be related to the throttle body.
 
The nissan dealership that I went to felt like crooks. I am unable to find a reputable knowlegeable shop to diagnose my issue properly.

I don't mind paying the 450, if it actually fixes my issue. I am also concerned that my rough idle might be related to the throttle body.
You don't think you can give it a cleaning yourself? It's not too difficult on most engines. I would watch some YT videos - I am sure there are dozens.
Another suggestion. Some of the bigger AP chains will do a scan for codes for free. If it still comes up MAF maybe try another brand - though the hitachi should be fine. While they are in there, if they could look at misfire counts on ea. cylinder. Also LT/ST fuel trims to see if the ECU is compensating for misfire or post TB air leaks.
good luck. Just don't throw parts at it. You can have stuck EGR, EVAP solenoid stuck open, gummed up PCV etc..
 
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