Patman
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I've used at least 10 different K&N oil filters now and not a single one has ever had this problem for me. I just bought two more last weekend and checked them before I purchased them and they were perfect.
Machining debris on threads of K&N oil filter?
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All of the K&N 2009s that I've bought have been very, very clean--more so than other brands, I have noticed. I still, out of habit, run a magnet around the hole of my oil filters, though, just to see what I can get.
It's possible that someone returned that filter to the store after they had it on a vehicle and then had a change of mind about using it. I've noticed that, too--I have seen filters in the box on the shelf that have oily gaskets. You just know that someone oiled it up only to find that it wasn't the correct filter for the application or that the threads didn't match.
It's possible that someone returned that filter to the store after they had it on a vehicle and then had a change of mind about using it. I've noticed that, too--I have seen filters in the box on the shelf that have oily gaskets. You just know that someone oiled it up only to find that it wasn't the correct filter for the application or that the threads didn't match.
I have seen this at least once before with every major oil filter brand. I have to admit i do not see it often. I always check the filter out at the store. If I see anything I do not like I grab another one and check it out.
My experience has been that it is a sporadic occurance but when it happens it seems to happen in bunches. If you find one Brand Whatever filter on the shelf with the problem, you'll find more. Now it could be that the problem is more frequent than I have actually experienced, but if the first filter I checked was good, and all I needed was one filter, i didn't go digging into the rest.
I just went out and swabbed one with a Q-tip and all I got was some dark gunk, probably machining lube. I was not thrilled to see that the ABV appears to be nitrile rather than Silicone like the Pure1 I normally use. I just put in a Napa Gold for my daughter and noticed that it seemed to have a thicker cannister and Silicone ABV so I may have to go back to them.
I noticed before I installed a K&N HP2009 oil filter on my Focus that there was machining/tapping debris on the threads of the center threaded hole. I placed my finger thru the threads and the finger was covered with particles of metal.
I have also noticed this on other name brand oil filters--has anyone else noticed this ?
The filtered oil does go out thru the center threaded hole --correct?And wouldnt metal debris on the threads be a concern?
[ August 17, 2003, 12:51 PM: Message edited by: phoneman91 ]
I have also noticed this on other name brand oil filters--has anyone else noticed this ?
The filtered oil does go out thru the center threaded hole --correct?And wouldnt metal debris on the threads be a concern?
[ August 17, 2003, 12:51 PM: Message edited by: phoneman91 ]
I've noticed a lot of machining debris on the threads of the Supertech 3593 filters I've bought. This time, I took a small funnel, and slowly half-filled the brand new filter with gas, via the inlet holes on the side. I then emptied it into a white plastic container. The bottom of the container was littered with fine particles. A magnet was able to bring them into a little bunch, so I think these were iron shavings.
When I looked inside the filter, I could see more particles stuck to the inside of the center tube, including what looked like loose fibres from the media.
Is this what I've been feeding into my engine over the years?
Maybe I should buy a filter mounting plate, a small pump, and make a device to pe-flush the filters with kerosene before I use them!
When I looked inside the filter, I could see more particles stuck to the inside of the center tube, including what looked like loose fibres from the media.
Is this what I've been feeding into my engine over the years?
Maybe I should buy a filter mounting plate, a small pump, and make a device to pe-flush the filters with kerosene before I use them!
When I did the Grease oil filter study, I ran a very strong magnet in the filter neck and down into the filter core. I was preparing to make notes on how much metallic debris I found. None of the 20 had anything on the magnet, so I struck that row from my data.
I did notice that some of the Frams had quite a bit of machine oil on the baseplate and threads. Other than that, no real issues.
I did notice that some of the Frams had quite a bit of machine oil on the baseplate and threads. Other than that, no real issues.
I've noticed thread shavings on several brands of filters, and certainly Champion-made filters. (You'd think that spending near $10 for a filter would be sufficient to ensure that manufacturing stupidity like this isn't overlooked.) Before installing a new filter, I always spray some carburetor cleaner on an old toothbrush and insert it into the hole and spin it counter-clockwise, drawing out any loose shavings or paint chips. The same procedure should be used when dealing with escort services.
I lol'ed.
Champion Labs does not "Cut" the metal to make the threads. They 'roll" the threads. They stamp out their own backplate assemblies.
In the process of making the metal base plate, they machine the threads into the blank surface by rolling them. There "should be" no metal shavings that you can get when you cut the threads into the base plate.
The machining process does include the baseplate being "washed" with fluid to keep the heat out.
Naturally there are specifications for the threads and the pitch of the threads, along with tollerances which must be met. And QC examines every batch made.
From the machining process the batch is sent to a parts washer to remove the machining fluid off the baseplate and at this time the "cleaned" baseplate is then sent through the anti-rust stage.
When you get a new filter, you can take a towel and wipe the threads clean of the anti-rust remains that are deep inside the threads.
Cut threads do have a tendency to have metal shavings remain in the threads.
Rolled threads do not. But...if the die wears this can lead to some burrs in the threaded area. There is a preventative maintenance process as part of ISO 9000 Champ goes through to "predict" how long a individual die can last. Champ has their own maintenance department who maintains the dies. (there is an extra set of every die). So if a particular die has problems they adjust their maintenance schedules for reworking that individual die.
The differences between cut or rolled threads is explained here:
http://www.filtercouncil.org/techdata/tsbs/94-3R.pdf
I think people are getting confused with the junk they wipe out of the threads being metal. A magnet would tell you if it is. But the probability is that it is dirt that has accumulated in the threads with the wet antirust fluid when it dries.
[ November 13, 2004, 07:47 AM: Message edited by: Filter guy ]
In the process of making the metal base plate, they machine the threads into the blank surface by rolling them. There "should be" no metal shavings that you can get when you cut the threads into the base plate.
The machining process does include the baseplate being "washed" with fluid to keep the heat out.
Naturally there are specifications for the threads and the pitch of the threads, along with tollerances which must be met. And QC examines every batch made.
From the machining process the batch is sent to a parts washer to remove the machining fluid off the baseplate and at this time the "cleaned" baseplate is then sent through the anti-rust stage.
When you get a new filter, you can take a towel and wipe the threads clean of the anti-rust remains that are deep inside the threads.
Cut threads do have a tendency to have metal shavings remain in the threads.
Rolled threads do not. But...if the die wears this can lead to some burrs in the threaded area. There is a preventative maintenance process as part of ISO 9000 Champ goes through to "predict" how long a individual die can last. Champ has their own maintenance department who maintains the dies. (there is an extra set of every die). So if a particular die has problems they adjust their maintenance schedules for reworking that individual die.
The differences between cut or rolled threads is explained here:
http://www.filtercouncil.org/techdata/tsbs/94-3R.pdf
I think people are getting confused with the junk they wipe out of the threads being metal. A magnet would tell you if it is. But the probability is that it is dirt that has accumulated in the threads with the wet antirust fluid when it dries.
[ November 13, 2004, 07:47 AM: Message edited by: Filter guy ]
Yes, I can see how the metal has been pushed back to roll the threads. But the flakes I washed out of the filter *did* stick to a magnet, in clumps, just like iron filings. They had a silvery appearance. They were sliver shaped, with a metallic lustre.
But my car is still running fine, so I suppose no damage has been done. Any hard particles introduced with the filter, that are small enough to get into the bearings, will embed themselves in the soft metal and do no harm. The others will eventually get caught on the other side of the filter.
But my car is still running fine, so I suppose no damage has been done. Any hard particles introduced with the filter, that are small enough to get into the bearings, will embed themselves in the soft metal and do no harm. The others will eventually get caught on the other side of the filter.
If its a rare occurance that "metal shavings" exist in the filter casing....
Could it be that someone bought the wrong filter, tried to screw it on, force it on, eventually gave up, and returned the filter?
I've seen people hand a filter (wasn't prefilled) in the container back to a parts guy before, then watched him put it right back on the shelf. Since all the filter boxes are unsealed cardboard...it doesn't ever appear that someones opened the box or not...heck I always open the box just to make sure myself
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I noticed this when picking out an HP2010 once. It looked like the threads were a bit "beat up".
Could it be that someone bought the wrong filter, tried to screw it on, force it on, eventually gave up, and returned the filter?
I've seen people hand a filter (wasn't prefilled) in the container back to a parts guy before, then watched him put it right back on the shelf. Since all the filter boxes are unsealed cardboard...it doesn't ever appear that someones opened the box or not...heck I always open the box just to make sure myself
I noticed this when picking out an HP2010 once. It looked like the threads were a bit "beat up".
I may go through 20 filters on the shelf before I find one that does not have metal shavings in the threads.
I believe I brought up this same kind of thread about this last year.
I had went to a store and opened up whatever brand filter to check and found a "spring" looking deal that was the left over threads. Stretched out it was about 3 inches long!
IIRC this was a ST.
I've seen metal filings on every filter brand except Fram
Around here the Napa Golds/Wix seem to be the worst followed by Pep Boy's prolone brand.
Last weekend I found a Baldwin B2 at a truckstop. I sneakily removed the plastic wrapper.............I found metal shavings on the threads on this filter too!
I believe I brought up this same kind of thread about this last year.
I had went to a store and opened up whatever brand filter to check and found a "spring" looking deal that was the left over threads. Stretched out it was about 3 inches long!
IIRC this was a ST.
I've seen metal filings on every filter brand except Fram
Around here the Napa Golds/Wix seem to be the worst followed by Pep Boy's prolone brand.
Last weekend I found a Baldwin B2 at a truckstop. I sneakily removed the plastic wrapper.............I found metal shavings on the threads on this filter too!
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