M1 synthetic grease

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Would it be a good choice for the ball bearings in the rear hub of my cross-country mountain bike?

Is there any reason I SHOULD NOT use it for this application?

Thanks in advance.
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Mobil 1 grease will work fine in bicycle bearings,how ever it tends to bleed alot,,and you should use NLGI 1 grade,,some bicycle shops carry small tubes of special bearing grease,,I would go this route for best performance,,,or if you got any Schaeffers 274 #1 laying around,this is what I use,,,,BL
 
quote:

Originally posted by LT4 Vette:
....Do you plan on doing a UOA for Havoline Synthetic??

Maybe....I'm thinking that with the Expedition's oil consumption issues, the make-up oil would taint the UOA results.
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But, I think I may do it anyway, just to check for any anti-freeze, fuel, things like that.
 
quote:

Originally posted by brian fix:
Mobil 1 grease will work fine in bicycle bearings,how ever it tends to bleed alot,,and you should use NLGI 1 grade,,some bicycle shops carry small tubes of special bearing grease,,I would go this route for best performance....

I have some Park Tools Polylube grease, but just thought the M1 stuff might be "better".
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WW,

I'd use the Amsoil Series 2000 racing grease...

It's still much less expensive per ounce than any bike grease @ $12.00/14 ounce tube and it will last at least three times as long as any conventional grease in a WB application. This stuff is absolutely tenacious once you get it on any sort of metallic surface.

I've used the Amsoil MP synthetic greases on my old bikes for wheel bearings, pedal bearings and headsets, but I haven't gotten around to tearing into my "LOOK" composite Tri bike just yet ...Actually, I'm not even sure now if the Shimano 600 Ultegra stuff is even servicable???

Tooslick
 
Thanks to all who responded. I rebuilt the '03 Shimano XT disc hubs this evening. After talking it over with myself, I said: "Self, just use the Park Tools Polylube grease that you already have & pick up some Amsoil Series 2000 racing grease for the next time you need to rebuild your hubs." Self agreed.
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often an NLGI #2 grease is too viscous for the freehub assembly. Sometimes it won't let the pawls engage. Although I've also used it with success in various hubs, it really does depend on the application.

DT Swiss use a (relatively light) Dow Corning Moly grease (they call it a 'paste'. It was opriginally developed for lathe and mill beds) in the Hugi star ratchet assembly. Chris King use a very light grease/heavy synthetic oil in their freewheel/'ringdrive', although they do allow a light non-detergent synthetic engine oil at a pinch. (can't remember the viscosity)

The grease is fine in the bearings, although can be a little 'draggy'.
 
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