M1 EP 0w20/4000 miles/2020 Honda Accord 2.0T

[harborcat]

I posted Acura RDX 2020 with the same engine (stock, no modifications), 7400 miles on Mobil1 EP 0w-20, mostly highway driving, 4.0% fuel dilution from the same lab. I just changed oil again at 3300 miles, sending to lab again. I put Kirkland 0w-20. Boutique oil type will do nothing for fuel dilution issue. Cheap oil & frequent oil changes is the way to go. I am thinking of going to 0w-30, the viscosity drops anyway

I think I’m going to try 0w30 at the next change. We will see what happens. Thanks for your input.

 

[OVERKILL]

Its not because of faulty component, this is a new "norm" for Honda 2.0t. I see this is many reports for this engine.

Yes, this is due to a poor design.

 

[SammyChevelleTypeS3]

I posted Acura RDX 2020 with the same engine (stock, no modifications), 7400 miles on Mobil1 EP 0w-20, mostly highway driving, 4.0% fuel dilution from the same lab. I just changed oil again at 3300 miles, sending to lab again. I put Kirkland 0w-20. Boutique oil type will do nothing for fuel dilution issue. Cheap oil & frequent oil changes is the way to go. I am thinking of going to 0w-30, the viscosity drops anyway

Dont know any reason not to. I just did that with this last oc. I went from the 0w20 I been using to M1 Advanced 0w30. About 440mi on it so far and I am liking the way it sounds and is running. Going to test this run at about 3500 to 4000 if I do not see any quick raise in sump level or dark stinky oil (the Honda life monitor will be a 70%) but I am certainly not following that. All I know to do is keep an eye on it and do frequent changes and I hope to settle on an oil / grade that shows a few consistent uoa.

 

[Eddie]

I first look at the wear values, then look at the fuel dilution and NOT the other way around. Wear values are the important metric. Simple enough for most.

 

[tolian21]

I first look at the wear values, then look at the fuel dilution and NOT the other way around. Wear values are the important metric. Simple enough for most.

Are you saying that Honda’s 2.0t design is accounting for 4-5% dilution as normal operating conditions? Or you proposing to keep opening engine every 5k miles to look if wear is starting to develop instead of doing $35 UOA?

 

[FZ1]

46000 miles on car, maintenance minder 70%, 2 months since last change. This is my first uoa.
Car is modified with upgraded turbo, fbo, tune.
Others have reported fuel dilution with this engine, but my results are worse than I expected since this is a relatively short oci, I use 93, and most of my miles are highway.
Replaced with HPL premium plus 0w20. I was going to wait 5000 miles, but now will change at 4000 or maybe even less.
Thoughts?

Wear is ok.... Vis is low. I'd try a thin 30w like PP. .02

 

[Eddie]

tolian21. Read my post again and try to comprehend.

 

[Greasymechtech]

Wear that is collected by the oil filter, and anything outside of the range of the analysis, aren't seen. Trending is needed for 'consistency'. Comparison is also needed. UOA is just a tool. Just because it doesn't show wear, doesn't mean the engine isn't grinding itself down. Nothing worse than **** good UOA's and the engine fails from part failure, or sludge/varnish. UOAs aren't continuous and just a single point in time, hopefully repeated enough for usable data. My drainplug and/or filter magnet will show more than a UOA.

In this UOA, your failure is the visc and fuel. And, that fuel is needed for your tune... boost/compressionratio/safety!

BTW, last I talked to my colleagues employed by your automakers, they are definitely wear testing with excessive fuel. This implies plenty. Instead of solving a problem, they are working around it. They were definitely caught with their pants down. Consumers aren't paid for their R&D by the automaker!

4000 miles is a short interval. You could shorten it more, but depending on miles driven per years, a 3k interval could be a hassle. The other option is a 5w30, then a higher hths 30, and finally 40 grades.

Don't wait for parts failures to decide on changing grades. Once you went for the tune and upgrade, the OE oil grade and interval recommendations are null and void. The local waltonmart and autopart stores have a good selection of 30 and 40 grad euro/hdeo oils. Time to go thicker.

Are you monitoring oil temps and/or PSI?

 

[SammyChevelleTypeS3]

Yes, this is due to a poor design.

You are so right. Honda has been slipping in lots of areas since the late 90s. Actually if we had time and desire to graph automaker's failures over say the last 20 years I would venture to guess most would turn out close to each other with the exception of maybe 1 or 2. I know we are mostly aware of a couple who have really had lots of publicity for certain engine failures etc... For the most part I think if someone tries to do what is called for in the realm of predicitve and preventive maintenance they will likely get decent performance and maybe not the unexpected engine kaboom.
I can say I really only know of one person who had an engine failure. A pick up truck with a V8 engine that lost oil flow and pressure due to the poor way the previous owner had used it. It was older and used hard. Friend got it from someone since the guy could not pay him for boat motor repair work so he took it in trade to let his young son have it. They did not have it long before it imploded. He owned a shop and they had it rebuilt and back on the road in no time.

 

[harborcat]

Wear that is collected by the oil filter, and anything outside of the range of the analysis, aren't seen. Trending is needed for 'consistency'. Comparison is also needed. UOA is just a tool. Just because it doesn't show wear, doesn't mean the engine isn't grinding itself down. Nothing worse than **** good UOA's and the engine fails from part failure, or sludge/varnish. UOAs aren't continuous and just a single point in time, hopefully repeated enough for usable data. My drainplug and/or filter magnet will show more than a UOA.

In this UOA, your failure is the visc and fuel. And, that fuel is needed for your tune... boost/compressionratio/safety!

BTW, last I talked to my colleagues employed by your automakers, they are definitely wear testing with excessive fuel. This implies plenty. Instead of solving a problem, they are working around it. They were definitely caught with their pants down. Consumers aren't paid for their R&D by the automaker!

4000 miles is a short interval. You could shorten it more, but depending on miles driven per years, a 3k interval could be a hassle. The other option is a 5w30, then a higher hths 30, and finally 40 grades.

Don't wait for parts failures to decide on changing grades. Once you went for the tune and upgrade, the OE oil grade and interval recommendations are null and void. The local waltonmart and autopart stores have a good selection of 30 and 40 grad euro/hdeo oils. Time to go thicker.

Are you monitoring oil temps and/or PSI?

Unfortunately, there is no way to monitor oil temperature. I do follow coolant temperature, for what it's worth, realizing that oil temp is probably lagging behind as the car warms up. I do monitor PSI, AFR, knock control, fuel trims, etc.
I appreciate your other input. 30wt will be going in at the next change, probably at 4000 miles again.

 

[tolian21]

I got the same crappy numbers as you have, 3400 miles, same engine and same oil. My car is stock, and I am very light on throttle.

Mobil1 0w-20EP 3.4k mil; Acura RDX 2020

80-90% highway driving, 3400 miles (60% oil life left as per OLM). About 5 month. Mobil1 Ep 0w-20. Fuel dilution got worse compared to my last analysis 7400 miles. Car is stock, and regular driving I can't change oil any more often, viscosity has to go up

bobistheoilguy.com

 

[harborcat]

Glad to know I'm not alone. I have HPL PP 0w20 in now and will see if it was able to maintain viscosity better than the M1 in about a month. Putting 0w30 after that to be able to start with a higher viscosity, as others have suggested.