M1 0w-40 FS vs Rotella T6 5w-40

[Fabulous50s]

What really is the difference? I'd like something with good additive package for use in small engines with no emissions, full pressure lubrication.

Also may end up in my Pentastar, and Toyota 1AR-FE 2.7. Both port injected.

 

[RDY4WAR]

Mobil 1 FS Euro 0W-40 is a much better oil than Rotella T6 5W-40. It has a lower Noack, better base oils, better VII, and better add pack. Rotella shouldn't even be in consideration for this engine. It foams easily, is volatile, and has a tendency to shear quite a bit. It's only saving grace is +40% more ZDDP than API SP oils, but M1 FS has the same higher ZDDP content. BROtella is a cash cow for Shell, formulated to the bare minimum CK-4 standard as cheaply as possible.

 

[Fabulous50s]

I see you read my posts!

BROtella is a cash cow for Shell

 

[edyvw]

As

What really is the difference? I'd like something with good additive package for use in small engines with no emissions, full pressure lubrication.

Also may end up in my Pentastar, and Toyota 1AR-FE 2.7. Both port injected.

Mobil1.
But, I just can’t help, is there oil without full pressure lubrication?

 

[Popsy]

But, I just can’t help, is there oil without full pressure lubrication?

I guess he meant as opposed to splash lubrication, lawn mowers type?

 

[Astro14]

For a small engine, either choice is better than what most small engines get. They’ll be fine running either.

That said, I would choose the M1 as the better oil, particularly if that is the oil I used in one of my cars, to simplify inventory in my shop.

 

[RaymondP]

This is a particularly interesting and timely post for me in understanding regular and diesel engine oil requirements. I am a regular user of M1 FS 0W-40 for my 2016 BMW 328i 4-cylinder fuel injector turbo. First thought as approaching 70K miles is to switch to the M1 Long Life FS with same/close to weight oil. Or should I continue as before? Driving is short to medium trips (5 to 20 mile runs), highway for 60% of the longer runs.

However, the REAL and relevant question is about my latest acquisition, a 1986 Catalina 34 sailboat. This has the original 3-cylinder M25 (21 hp) diesel engine, same engine modified for marine applications as the Kubota tractor engine. Previous owner was using none-synthetic diesel oil, I think 15W-40. Was planning on changing to Rotella T6 FS for the future, either 5W or 15W-40. Engine runs 20 to 40 hours annually, to get out of the marina before raising the sails. Will be changing the oil/filter every one or two(??) years, or maybe longer(?), given the low running time.

Clearly for gasoline vehicle applications the T6 was NOT a good idea. How about for my diesel engine, or would an M1 FS of appropriate (0W-40) weight be better?? Location is cold Michigan, but the boat is only operational May to October, then sits in its cradle on the hard.

 

[Fabulous50s]

As

Mobil1.
But, I just can’t help, is there oil without full pressure lubrication?

Yes, as opposed to splash lubrication that many <10hp engines use.

 

[zray1]

“…..I am a regular user of M1 FS 0W-40 for my 2016 BMW 328i 4-cylinder fuel injector turbo. First thought as approaching 70K miles is to switch to the M1 Long Life FS with same/close to weight oil…….”

I believe I read the answer to this on the Mobil website, maybe in the FAQ section.

Mobil says if the engine has been using “regular” Mobil 1 then don’t switch to the high mileage / long life. They go on to elaborate that the high mileage was designed for engines that had been using a conventional oil for years.

Z

 

[4WD]

I see you read my posts!

Wait - it’s not BreauxTella ?

 

[Lavrishevo]

This is a particularly interesting and timely post for me in understanding regular and diesel engine oil requirements. I am a regular user of M1 FS 0W-40 for my 2016 BMW 328i 4-cylinder fuel injector turbo. First thought as approaching 70K miles is to switch to the M1 Long Life FS with same/close to weight oil. Or should I continue as before? Driving is short to medium trips (5 to 20 mile runs), highway for 60% of the longer runs.

However, the REAL and relevant question is about my latest acquisition, a 1986 Catalina 34 sailboat. This has the original 3-cylinder M25 (21 hp) diesel engine, same engine modified for marine applications as the Kubota tractor engine. Previous owner was using none-synthetic diesel oil, I think 15W-40. Was planning on changing to Rotella T6 FS for the future, either 5W or 15W-40. Engine runs 20 to 40 hours annually, to get out of the marina before raising the sails. Will be changing the oil/filter every one or two(??) years, or maybe longer(?), given the low running time.

Clearly for gasoline vehicle applications the T6 was NOT a good idea. How about for my diesel engine, or would an M1 FS of appropriate (0W-40) weight be better?? Location is cold Michigan, but the boat is only operational May to October, then sits in its cradle on the hard.

M1 FS has more ZDDP than their other lines except for the racing 20w-50. Stick with it, there is a reason why this is factory fill for Porsche.

 

[RDY4WAR]

Wait - it’s not BreauxTella ?

 

[4WD]

View attachment 190719

I recall 5 years ago the Noack went:
Delvac
Delo
Rotella
Yet it sold like hotcakes

 

[RDY4WAR]

I recall 5 years ago the Noack went:
Delvac
Delo
Rotella
Yet it sold like hotcakes

I remember Rotella T4 15W-40 was 12.2% Noack.

Shell spends $55 million/yr promoting Rotella, to a populace largely uneducated in engine oils, knowing those people will believe just about anything you put on a label. The average customer couldn't tell you what CK-4 is, much less VOA/UOAs, cut open filters, or pull valve covers and oil pans. Shell knows that very well, as do all the majors. Performance doesn't sell oil, marketing does. That's why most all of the majors are in a race to the bottom where saving 3 cents a gallon on production cost takes precedence over improving the quality of the oil. There's no incentive to produce anything better than the bare minimum standard, and the customer isn't going to know the difference in performance. They will notice the price difference and some flashy labels though.

 

[edyvw]

This is a particularly interesting and timely post for me in understanding regular and diesel engine oil requirements. I am a regular user of M1 FS 0W-40 for my 2016 BMW 328i 4-cylinder fuel injector turbo. First thought as approaching 70K miles is to switch to the M1 Long Life FS with same/close to weight oil. Or should I continue as before? Driving is short to medium trips (5 to 20 mile runs), highway for 60% of the longer runs.

However, the REAL and relevant question is about my latest acquisition, a 1986 Catalina 34 sailboat. This has the original 3-cylinder M25 (21 hp) diesel engine, same engine modified for marine applications as the Kubota tractor engine. Previous owner was using none-synthetic diesel oil, I think 15W-40. Was planning on changing to Rotella T6 FS for the future, either 5W or 15W-40. Engine runs 20 to 40 hours annually, to get out of the marina before raising the sails. Will be changing the oil/filter every one or two(??) years, or maybe longer(?), given the low running time.

Clearly for gasoline vehicle applications the T6 was NOT a good idea. How about for my diesel engine, or would an M1 FS of appropriate (0W-40) weight be better?? Location is cold Michigan, but the boat is only operational May to October, then sits in its cradle on the hard.

In your BMW stick to ANYTHING that is approved for BMW LL01, and that includes Mobil1 0W40. Forget high mileage and other junk.

 

[dlundblad]

Mobil 1 FS Euro 0W-40 is a much better oil than Rotella T6 5W-40. It has a lower Noack, better base oils, better VII, and better add pack. Rotella shouldn't even be in consideration for this engine. It foams easily, is volatile, and has a tendency to shear quite a bit. It's only saving grace is +40% more ZDDP than API SP oils, but M1 FS has the same higher ZDDP content. BROtella is a cash cow for Shell, formulated to the bare minimum CK-4 standard as cheaply as possible.

Spoken like someone who works for the competition. Something being formulated (or built) to a bare minimum is the way pretty much everything goes. Are you saying XOM or Chevron doesn’t do this? Are you saying the manufacturer of your daily driver didn’t do this? Are you saying cost isn’t a factor when you make a purchase?

The foaming is something I have not heard of or personally experienced before be it in air or liquid cooled engines.

 

[350Rocket]

As

Mobil1.
But, I just can’t help, is there oil without full pressure lubrication?

Some outdoor power equipment. My 6hp Briggs and Stratton flathead and 9.5hp Briggs and Stratton OHV both have "splash lubrication". My Kohler twin OHV in my lawn tractor is full pressure lube.
I run the m1 0w40 in all of these as well as my 2005 Silverado and 1976 Oldsmobile 350 v8.

 

[edyvw]

Some outdoor power equipment. My 6hp Briggs and Stratton flathead and 9.5hp Briggs and Stratton OHV both have "splash lubrication". My Kohler twin OHV in my lawn tractor is full pressure lube.
I run the m1 0w40 in all of these as well as my 2005 Silverado and 1976 Oldsmobile 350 v8.

Yeah, didn’t think of it.

 

[RDY4WAR]

Spoken like someone who works for the competition. Something being formulated (or built) to a bare minimum is the way pretty much everything goes. Are you saying XOM or Chevron doesn’t do this? Are you saying the manufacturer of your daily driver didn’t do this? Are you saying cost isn’t a factor when you make a purchase?

The foaming is something I have not heard of or personally experienced before be it in air or liquid cooled engines.

I'm saying the A3/B4, A40, MB 229.5, and LL-01 approvals are superior to CK-4. It may be minimum standard, but at least it's a better standard.

I have nothing to gain from someone buying Mobil 1. I have seen enough failures with Rotella, along with poor KRL, PDSC, and TGA results, to know that it is an inferior oil to the M1 option. M1 FS 0W-40 beats T6 5W-40 in all of those tests. I've seen the foam issue a lot. I know some performance cars on the street that lose oil pressure to aeration and foam with Rotella, as well as motorcycles that get noisy and see nothing but foam in the sight hole. Changing away from it to a more appropriate oil fixed the issue, and yeah, I know it's JASO approved, but that is a really weak standard.

As far as cost goes, (Walmart pricing) M1 FS 0W-40 is $5.59/qt vs T6 5W-40 is $5.87/qt. That's with Rotella on sale also.

 

[edyvw]

I'm saying the A3/B4, A40, MB 229.5, and LL-01 approvals are superior to CK-4. It may be minimum standard, but at least it's a better standard.

I have nothing to gain from someone buying Mobil 1. I have seen enough failures with Rotella, along with poor KRL, PDSC, and TGA results, to know that it is an inferior oil to the M1 option. M1 FS 0W-40 beats T6 5W-40 in all of those tests. I've seen the foam issue a lot. I know some performance cars on the street that lose oil pressure to aeration and foam with Rotella, as well as motorcycles that get noisy and see nothing but foam in the sight hole. Changing away from it to a more appropriate oil fixed the issue, and yeah, I know it's JASO approved, but that is a really weak standard.

As far as cost goes, (Walmart pricing) M1 FS 0W-40 is $5.59/qt vs T6 5W-40 is $5.87/qt. That's with Rotella on sale also.

^This!
Any oil with MB229.5 will be step up.