luge-guard
- Thread starter Big_Kat
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Lubegard red is not a mechanic in a can.
use the red in your transmission and just know it's going to provide preventative maintenance and less wear that the lowly t-iv fluid can.
use the red in your transmission and just know it's going to provide preventative maintenance and less wear that the lowly t-iv fluid can.
Lube guard is a well respected additive, that has been used in the automatic trans rebuilding industry for many years. When added to a new rebuild or even to a good seasoned tranny it will improve and stabilize the fluid against thermal breakdown. In some cases it will improve shift quality and stop torque converter lock up shutter. It has a friction modifier package to reduce friction and heat. It’s been endorsed by OEM's for many years. It will not "fix" a problem. As the others said - not a Mechanic in a can.
Lubegard is one of just a handful of things anybody should ever consider putting in their AT, IMO.
LG does as LG says (on label). Use with confidence.
LG does as LG says (on label). Use with confidence.
Originally Posted By: Big_Kat
T-IV fluid cant beat 4 bucks a quart at dealer. No problem with the tranny just wanted to see if it was OK to add for preventative maintenance
No need to add it for preventive maintenance, just do regular changes and you're good to go. IIRC, that fluid is shared with the tranny gears on your rig, I'd think you'd want to be careful about what you put in there.
T-IV fluid cant beat 4 bucks a quart at dealer. No problem with the tranny just wanted to see if it was OK to add for preventative maintenance
No need to add it for preventive maintenance, just do regular changes and you're good to go. IIRC, that fluid is shared with the tranny gears on your rig, I'd think you'd want to be careful about what you put in there.
Never used lubegard in a toyota. Works very well with lowly walmart DEXIII in GM applications.(I like Supertech DEX III :wink2). I have found that Redline D4 works best in toyotas specd for T-IV. Expensive, but can be left in service longer. Amsoil also works very well. I prefer D4. Take your pick.
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Originally Posted By: AzFireGuy79
Never used lubegard in a toyota.
I think LubeGard Black is for Toyota and Honda T-4 apps. It converts a good conventional Dex/Merc to T-IV.
I don't think there is any downside to adding it.
Never used lubegard in a toyota.
I think LubeGard Black is for Toyota and Honda T-4 apps. It converts a good conventional Dex/Merc to T-IV.
I don't think there is any downside to adding it.
I added a bottle of Lubegard red to new Toyota T-IV when I changed the OE fluid at 18K in my 2008 Corolla. I also added a Magnafine filter. IMO LG red improves any ATF although its probably not needed in synthetic fluid. I did add it with Mobil 1 when I changed the ATF in my Buick. I believe LG red is an excellent product based on the fact that many AT rebuilders use it.
Originally Posted By: pbm
I added a bottle of Lubegard red to new Toyota T-IV when I changed the OE fluid at 18K in my 2008 Corolla. I also added a Magnafine filter. IMO LG red improves any ATF although its probably not needed in synthetic fluid. I did add it with Mobil 1 when I changed the ATF in my Buick. I believe LG red is an excellent product based on the fact that many AT rebuilders use it.
What incentives do they get for using the product? Just a question!
I added a bottle of Lubegard red to new Toyota T-IV when I changed the OE fluid at 18K in my 2008 Corolla. I also added a Magnafine filter. IMO LG red improves any ATF although its probably not needed in synthetic fluid. I did add it with Mobil 1 when I changed the ATF in my Buick. I believe LG red is an excellent product based on the fact that many AT rebuilders use it.
What incentives do they get for using the product? Just a question!
Originally Posted By: MacGyver
Lube guard is a well respected additive, that has been used in the automatic trans rebuilding industry for many years. When added to a new rebuild or even to a good seasoned tranny it will improve and stabilize the fluid against thermal breakdown. In some cases it will improve shift quality and stop torque converter lock up shutter. It has a friction modifier package to reduce friction and heat. It’s been endorsed by OEM's for many years. It will not "fix" a problem. As the others said - not a Mechanic in a can.
+1 It is not a cure all but does help with heat, as well as TC shudder, and works as advertised. I've used it, and know transmission shops that recommend it.
Lube guard is a well respected additive, that has been used in the automatic trans rebuilding industry for many years. When added to a new rebuild or even to a good seasoned tranny it will improve and stabilize the fluid against thermal breakdown. In some cases it will improve shift quality and stop torque converter lock up shutter. It has a friction modifier package to reduce friction and heat. It’s been endorsed by OEM's for many years. It will not "fix" a problem. As the others said - not a Mechanic in a can.
+1 It is not a cure all but does help with heat, as well as TC shudder, and works as advertised. I've used it, and know transmission shops that recommend it.
Better to use the fluids that are specifically formulated to address those issues (shudder etc.) and have been fully tested without causing other problems that would be difficult, if not impossible, to attribute to the fluid. That final point is what 'they' bank on.
I, and I'm sure many of us, would be interested in seeing the OEM endorsements on headed notepaper ....
I, and I'm sure many of us, would be interested in seeing the OEM endorsements on headed notepaper ....
Originally Posted By: Whitewolf
Originally Posted By: Big_Kat
would you guys recommend any of the luge-guards products in a 07 corolla?
I would not recommend the use of those products or any other aftermarket 'additives'
I've been adding LG red to Honda Z-1 in my 2001 Accord (with the problematic BAXA A/T) since the first ATF change at 20K. I've also added a Magnafine filter. I believe it helps the fluid to run cooler and I attribute the fact that my A/T is still running great at 93K to this.
I am not a fan of the LG black which supposedly converts fluids to perform like others. I think you are better off buying the correct fluid. I am a fan of the red bottle LG because I believe it improves regular ATF. The 10 ounce bottle of LG red runs about $10 to $12. I think manufacturers make compromises to keep the price of the fluid down and LG red compensates for these compromises. The premium synthetic ATF's like Amsoil, Redline, RP, M1 etc... don't make the cost compromises and probably don't need LG red. For that matter ATF+4 and Dex VI probably don't need LG either but 'marginal' fluids like Dex III and Honda Z-1 can use all the help they can get especially if the OCI is extended.
Originally Posted By: Big_Kat
would you guys recommend any of the luge-guards products in a 07 corolla?
I would not recommend the use of those products or any other aftermarket 'additives'
I've been adding LG red to Honda Z-1 in my 2001 Accord (with the problematic BAXA A/T) since the first ATF change at 20K. I've also added a Magnafine filter. I believe it helps the fluid to run cooler and I attribute the fact that my A/T is still running great at 93K to this.
I am not a fan of the LG black which supposedly converts fluids to perform like others. I think you are better off buying the correct fluid. I am a fan of the red bottle LG because I believe it improves regular ATF. The 10 ounce bottle of LG red runs about $10 to $12. I think manufacturers make compromises to keep the price of the fluid down and LG red compensates for these compromises. The premium synthetic ATF's like Amsoil, Redline, RP, M1 etc... don't make the cost compromises and probably don't need LG red. For that matter ATF+4 and Dex VI probably don't need LG either but 'marginal' fluids like Dex III and Honda Z-1 can use all the help they can get especially if the OCI is extended.
http://www.lubegard.com/pdfs/OEMsuseLubegard.pdf
Any ANY Nissan using matic-D that had any 'chirp' issues during a shift required a couple bottle of Nissan Transmission Fluid Treatment. Never did find out if the supplier was Lubegard or Smartblend and could care less since I never recommend matic-D ATF for Nissans. Nissan PN 31003-31X61.
Lubegard's ATF cooler cleaner was also bottled under multiple OE part numbers.
I find that the aftermarket bandaid assists with all the poor and pathetic OE testing and lame licensing requirements.
And, for the thread starter's Toyota, I would use the Lubegard if you're stuck on using the pathetic dealer fluids. If you choose along the lines of Amsoil, Redline, Mobil1, Royalpurple,....... then you don't need it.
Any ANY Nissan using matic-D that had any 'chirp' issues during a shift required a couple bottle of Nissan Transmission Fluid Treatment. Never did find out if the supplier was Lubegard or Smartblend and could care less since I never recommend matic-D ATF for Nissans. Nissan PN 31003-31X61.
Lubegard's ATF cooler cleaner was also bottled under multiple OE part numbers.
I find that the aftermarket bandaid assists with all the poor and pathetic OE testing and lame licensing requirements.
And, for the thread starter's Toyota, I would use the Lubegard if you're stuck on using the pathetic dealer fluids. If you choose along the lines of Amsoil, Redline, Mobil1, Royalpurple,....... then you don't need it.
Some of you old codgers will remember back in the 70's
when GM transmissions would perform well for over 200K miles,
with no maintenence whatsoever.
They did this with the help of Sperm Whale Oil (SWO) which was
formulated into the ATF of the period. Then the ban on
killing Sperm Whales occured, and SWO was eliminated from
ATF, resulting in shorter lifespans for automatic transmissions.
Lubegard Red is an effective replacement for the SWO
and does prolong the life of transmissions, IMHO.
I've used it in the live grenade trans of an Explorer
for the last 130K miles and it hasn't blown yet.....
when GM transmissions would perform well for over 200K miles,
with no maintenence whatsoever.
They did this with the help of Sperm Whale Oil (SWO) which was
formulated into the ATF of the period. Then the ban on
killing Sperm Whales occured, and SWO was eliminated from
ATF, resulting in shorter lifespans for automatic transmissions.
Lubegard Red is an effective replacement for the SWO
and does prolong the life of transmissions, IMHO.
I've used it in the live grenade trans of an Explorer
for the last 130K miles and it hasn't blown yet.....
hey guys im thinking of using this lubegard in my chrysler transmission that uses ATF+4... Can anyone point me in the right direction on which one to use? Im thinking this one - http://www.lubegard.com/C-112/LUBEGARD+Automatic+Transmission+Fluid+Protectant
not sure what the differences are between the different variants, any help is appreciated
not sure what the differences are between the different variants, any help is appreciated
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