It seems to work well and after the first full can OCI of MoS2, only a half can should be sufficient for further OCI's.
Lubro-Moly Mos2 Antifriction Treatment
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The MoS2 presented nice 'feel' results during the previous OCI on Amsoil AZO. I added about 2/3s of a can. About 3/4ths of a can this time, I added 1,500 miles into the current OCI w/ PU.
The price has increased, but it's still cheaper than the LG BioTech Engine Protectant; which I have been interested in trying since it's a good company and would spike ester adds to the mixture w/ some moly as well.
If the price point closes enough with the MoS2 price rising, I'll try that. On top of the current oils I'm using not really expecting miracles, it is overkill but idc. Just having fun and taking in anecdotal feel for now.
I'm most interested in idle improvement or any fuel eco gains on the MoS2, I'd be more interested in extended oil life with the LG product.
The price has increased, but it's still cheaper than the LG BioTech Engine Protectant; which I have been interested in trying since it's a good company and would spike ester adds to the mixture w/ some moly as well.
If the price point closes enough with the MoS2 price rising, I'll try that. On top of the current oils I'm using not really expecting miracles, it is overkill but idc. Just having fun and taking in anecdotal feel for now.
I'm most interested in idle improvement or any fuel eco gains on the MoS2, I'd be more interested in extended oil life with the LG product.
The lubeguard bio tech added about 400 to 500 moly when I ran it in Redline 5w20. Of note, it also added about 500 to 700 phosphorous. The phosphorous was at 1900 and moly was nearly 1200 after running about 12000 miles. Wear was low, but would not use lubeguard if you have iesel particlate filter. I did post this uoa on here probably about two years ago.
TTT
I recently picked up a 300zx Twin Turbo. The engine had a dented oil pan with horribly low oil pressure. The Sump is 3.5qts, which has to feed 2 heads/turbos. A high number of 300zx Twin Turbo's you find on the road have dented oil pans, due to replacement engines being set on the pan during shipment. The extremely tight clearance between the bottom of the sump and the pickup, causes low oil pressure, which ruins the top end and turbo's.
I took the car on a 3,000 mile trip from MN to SC. Before the trip oil pressure peaked around 30psi at any rpm range. Factory spec is ~60psi @ 3k rpms, and ~15psi/1k rpm after that. I decided to take a chance not really knowing the severity of the problem.
I installed a magnetic drain plug, Rotella T6/Motorcraft FL400s, and a full bottle of MoS2. I did some spirited driving through the mountains, some high speed runs, and even though there was horrible lifter noises (and some knocking), I make it home after 3 weeks. I was dumb enough to leave the oil in for another 4 months until late spring.
No I did not get a UOA, which I should have done, but there was absolutely 0 metal shavings on the MDP. Which was wierd because my 240sx usually is covered in a fine layer of shavings (possibly from the timing chain). I replaced the oil pan with a non dented one, and oil pressure is prefect. Everything else looked great when inspected as well.
The fact here is, 2x turbo's; no oil flow; mountains, I should have not made it back, no questions. I believe MoS2 prolonged major damage from happening, and it will ALWAYS be in the engine of that car.
I took the car on a 3,000 mile trip from MN to SC. Before the trip oil pressure peaked around 30psi at any rpm range. Factory spec is ~60psi @ 3k rpms, and ~15psi/1k rpm after that. I decided to take a chance not really knowing the severity of the problem.
I installed a magnetic drain plug, Rotella T6/Motorcraft FL400s, and a full bottle of MoS2. I did some spirited driving through the mountains, some high speed runs, and even though there was horrible lifter noises (and some knocking), I make it home after 3 weeks. I was dumb enough to leave the oil in for another 4 months until late spring.
No I did not get a UOA, which I should have done, but there was absolutely 0 metal shavings on the MDP. Which was wierd because my 240sx usually is covered in a fine layer of shavings (possibly from the timing chain). I replaced the oil pan with a non dented one, and oil pressure is prefect. Everything else looked great when inspected as well.
The fact here is, 2x turbo's; no oil flow; mountains, I should have not made it back, no questions. I believe MoS2 prolonged major damage from happening, and it will ALWAYS be in the engine of that car.
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I got interested in this product too and found this document. I hope it will help clarify folks who are still trying to understand if it is colloidal or not.
MoS2–Anti-Friction is a colloidal, molybdenum sulphide (MoS2) based solid lubricant suspended in mineral oil stabilized by a special preparation process and formulated for use in vehicle engines (petrol and Diesel). Miscible and fully compatible with all commercially-available engine oils (mineral oils, partially and fully synthetic oils).
PROPERTIES:
Forms a friction and wear reducing “Moly” film on all sliding surfaces of the engine. The engine runs smoother, quieter, cooler, more reliably. Provides an extra measure of protection under extreme operating conditions, e.g. extreme temperatures, engine overheating under high loads, loss of oil, etc. Miscible with all motor oils.
BENEFITS:
Up to 50% less engine wear. Reduces oil and fuel consumption. Longer engine life. Safeguards against break-downs and repairs. Smoother more pleasant engine operation.
APPLICATION:
Added to the lubricating oils of engines, compressors, pumps and especially motor vehicle engines (Gas and Diesel). Mixes with all commercially available engine oils.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Add 5 % (50 ml per litre of oil) MoS2–Anti-Friction to engine oil. Can be added to engine oil at any time. One can treats up to 1.5 gal (6 liter) of oil.
MoS2–Anti-Friction is a colloidal, molybdenum sulphide (MoS2) based solid lubricant suspended in mineral oil stabilized by a special preparation process and formulated for use in vehicle engines (petrol and Diesel). Miscible and fully compatible with all commercially-available engine oils (mineral oils, partially and fully synthetic oils).
PROPERTIES:
Forms a friction and wear reducing “Moly” film on all sliding surfaces of the engine. The engine runs smoother, quieter, cooler, more reliably. Provides an extra measure of protection under extreme operating conditions, e.g. extreme temperatures, engine overheating under high loads, loss of oil, etc. Miscible with all motor oils.
BENEFITS:
Up to 50% less engine wear. Reduces oil and fuel consumption. Longer engine life. Safeguards against break-downs and repairs. Smoother more pleasant engine operation.
APPLICATION:
Added to the lubricating oils of engines, compressors, pumps and especially motor vehicle engines (Gas and Diesel). Mixes with all commercially available engine oils.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Add 5 % (50 ml per litre of oil) MoS2–Anti-Friction to engine oil. Can be added to engine oil at any time. One can treats up to 1.5 gal (6 liter) of oil.
MolaKule
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sooo....7qt oil fill.., How much MoS2 to add? Is the entire bottle too much for an oil that already has about 150ppm Moly to start with?
Originally Posted By: Johnny248
sooo....7qt oil fill.., How much MoS2 to add? Is the entire bottle too much for an oil that already has about 150ppm Moly to start with?
One can treats 5 quarts of oil. So you need roughly 1.5 cans. After the first run and the internals are plated I've found that I only need 1/2 as much to maintain the fuel economy benefits.
I have been using this stuff for years. It pays for itself over and over again in fuel savings. I'd like to see a series of uoa with this stuff in the sump and whether wear metals are affected.
sooo....7qt oil fill.., How much MoS2 to add? Is the entire bottle too much for an oil that already has about 150ppm Moly to start with?
One can treats 5 quarts of oil. So you need roughly 1.5 cans. After the first run and the internals are plated I've found that I only need 1/2 as much to maintain the fuel economy benefits.
I have been using this stuff for years. It pays for itself over and over again in fuel savings. I'd like to see a series of uoa with this stuff in the sump and whether wear metals are affected.
Originally Posted By: Clevy
One can treats 5 quarts of oil. So you need roughly 1.5 cans. After the first run and the internals are plated I've found that I only need 1/2 as much to maintain the fuel economy benefits.
I disagree that you need that much. I've found that half a can, 150 ml, is enough for a 5-quart capacity sump. Alternatively, one can add a full can at one oil change and then skip the next one; there's enough moly retained to suffice. I prefer the first method -- 150 ml per oil change.
With a 7-quart/7-liter sump capacity, then a full 300 ml can is more than enough.
One can treats 5 quarts of oil. So you need roughly 1.5 cans. After the first run and the internals are plated I've found that I only need 1/2 as much to maintain the fuel economy benefits.
I disagree that you need that much. I've found that half a can, 150 ml, is enough for a 5-quart capacity sump. Alternatively, one can add a full can at one oil change and then skip the next one; there's enough moly retained to suffice. I prefer the first method -- 150 ml per oil change.
With a 7-quart/7-liter sump capacity, then a full 300 ml can is more than enough.
Originally Posted By: Tornado Red
Originally Posted By: Clevy
One can treats 5 quarts of oil. So you need roughly 1.5 cans. After the first run and the internals are plated I've found that I only need 1/2 as much to maintain the fuel economy benefits.
I disagree that you need that much. I've found that half a can, 150 ml, is enough for a 5-quart capacity sump. Alternatively, one can add a full can at one oil change and then skip the next one; there's enough moly retained to suffice. I prefer the first method -- 150 ml per oil change.
With a 7-quart/7-liter sump capacity, then a full 300 ml can is more than enough.
So you disagree with the instructions then. Since the instructions state to add 50ml per liter of oil. Which is roughly a can and a half.
I guess you know better than the folks who make it though,right?
Originally Posted By: Clevy
One can treats 5 quarts of oil. So you need roughly 1.5 cans. After the first run and the internals are plated I've found that I only need 1/2 as much to maintain the fuel economy benefits.
I disagree that you need that much. I've found that half a can, 150 ml, is enough for a 5-quart capacity sump. Alternatively, one can add a full can at one oil change and then skip the next one; there's enough moly retained to suffice. I prefer the first method -- 150 ml per oil change.
With a 7-quart/7-liter sump capacity, then a full 300 ml can is more than enough.
So you disagree with the instructions then. Since the instructions state to add 50ml per liter of oil. Which is roughly a can and a half.
I guess you know better than the folks who make it though,right?
Originally Posted By: Clevy
So you disagree with the instructions then. Since the instructions state to add 50ml per liter of oil. Which is roughly a can and a half.
I guess you know better than the folks who make it though,right?
300 ml per 5 liters of oil = 60 ml per liter
300 ml per 7 liters of oil = roughly 43 ml per liter
So, is slightly more than the recommended amount better than slightly less than the recommended amount? And what do you have to say about adding only 150 ml per 5 liters? Better than adding nothing at all? or a total waste?
So you disagree with the instructions then. Since the instructions state to add 50ml per liter of oil. Which is roughly a can and a half.
I guess you know better than the folks who make it though,right?
300 ml per 5 liters of oil = 60 ml per liter
300 ml per 7 liters of oil = roughly 43 ml per liter
So, is slightly more than the recommended amount better than slightly less than the recommended amount? And what do you have to say about adding only 150 ml per 5 liters? Better than adding nothing at all? or a total waste?
One ounce MOS2 per quart does the trick.
This was my second favorite additive, I guess now I will make it number 1. Really thanks for posting the VOA Taylor, this was awesome. Molly is the proven anti friction element that has no downside, unlike ZDDP where too much is a bad thing for your exhaust. This is just great!!!
Originally Posted By: NHGUY
Its been 4 months without a post on the subject.Time to bump it up!
May as well.... Whats everyone's thoughts of using this stuff in an older high mileage car?.... benefits? concerns? etc.
Its been 4 months without a post on the subject.Time to bump it up!
May as well.... Whats everyone's thoughts of using this stuff in an older high mileage car?.... benefits? concerns? etc.
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