I see a lot of fuel additives claim to reduce ring / bore wear. Does FP claim to reduce wear at the ring / bore interface, or is it primarily just a cleaner / combustion enhancer?
Lubricity of FP
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MolaKule
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Any cleaner that removes the hard carbon will reduce upper piston and ring wear.
FP is primarily just a cleaner / combustion enhancer. IT does have a certain amount of lubricity.
FP is primarily just a cleaner / combustion enhancer. IT does have a certain amount of lubricity.
Why do fuel injectors need lubrication? I'm guessing it helps reduce wear or deposits?
[ June 18, 2004, 01:43 PM: Message edited by: Bruce T ]
[ June 18, 2004, 01:43 PM: Message edited by: Bruce T ]
I just spent 20 minutes searching for it and can't find it.
There was a big thread in either this section or the interesting articles section that talked about why it's important.
There was a big thread in either this section or the interesting articles section that talked about why it's important.
Keeps your fuel injectors nice and lubed.
Would adding a dab of ATF to the FP help with upper cyl lubrication?
Is the Mola brew of FP and Neutra a better UCL than FP alone?
Is the Mola brew of FP and Neutra a better UCL than FP alone?
Don't know if it would help lube, but I'm sure it would help carbon form.
MolaKule
Staff member
No on the first and no on the second. The reason for the MolaBrew was to lower FP's ignition temperatures in Winter.
Neither Neutra Nor FP are upper cylinder lubricants in the most narrow chemical definitions.
Just read Terry's report on LC/FP;
At any rate, seems like keeping the upper cylinder and piston area clean and free of carbon along with the rings being kept clean with LC or ARX would do more than a UCL for reducing bore wear.
[ June 21, 2004, 04:30 PM: Message edited by: VaderSS ]
http://www.lubecontrol.com/id19.html
At any rate, seems like keeping the upper cylinder and piston area clean and free of carbon along with the rings being kept clean with LC or ARX would do more than a UCL for reducing bore wear.
[ June 21, 2004, 04:30 PM: Message edited by: VaderSS ]
MolaKule
Staff member
But again, wer're back to the definition of Upper Cylinder Lubricant (UCL).
An UCL deposits softer metal (with that metal having a very high temperature evaporation figure) on the valve faces and seats to reduce wear from impact and hot gas erosion.
FP lubricates the injectors and cleans the fuel system.
The bulk oil from the sump lubricates the rings, cylinder, and valve guides.
An UCL deposits softer metal (with that metal having a very high temperature evaporation figure) on the valve faces and seats to reduce wear from impact and hot gas erosion.
FP lubricates the injectors and cleans the fuel system.
The bulk oil from the sump lubricates the rings, cylinder, and valve guides.
MolaKule
Staff member
It depends on head design.
Some get lubrication from pooling, slinging, misting, drip, etc.
Detergent/Dispersant, low volatility of oil, tight fitting bushings reduce drip down.
Recall that exhaust gas is at high flow and high pressure so most of the oil gets blown back toward oil source.
[ June 22, 2004, 05:16 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
That makes sense. However, I am wondering if the oil that does flash on the valve stems would form hard carbon deposits taht would surely accelerate wear. Anyway to combat this?
BTW... I am curious, because I am a small block Chevy guy, and these things are notorious for eating guides. How can you slow / stop this?
BTW... I am curious, because I am a small block Chevy guy, and these things are notorious for eating guides. How can you slow / stop this?
MolaKule
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I know what you mean NovaDude. My older 350's seem to need new ones by 125,000 miles.
My machine shop guy found a set of hardend exhaust valve guides and installed them; no more problems and the engine is approaching 307,000 miles now. Sorry, don't remember brand name or supplier, but I do recall the machine shop guy said they had tighter clearances as well, which sealed oil and gasses a bit better.
I know some machine shops take these special alloy metal slugs and drill the holes to their own specifications to make EV bushings.
As the exhaust valve opens, there is an oil film that travels with the stem. If the oil is high in metallics (ash), then deposits could form. However, the stem is only down for a short time and comes back up for recooling and lubrication by the oil.
Some wear of the EV bushing emanates from the rotation of the exhaust valve.
Besides, most valve stems deposits I have had analyzed were from fuel, not modern oils.
My machine shop guy found a set of hardend exhaust valve guides and installed them; no more problems and the engine is approaching 307,000 miles now. Sorry, don't remember brand name or supplier, but I do recall the machine shop guy said they had tighter clearances as well, which sealed oil and gasses a bit better.
I know some machine shops take these special alloy metal slugs and drill the holes to their own specifications to make EV bushings.
As the exhaust valve opens, there is an oil film that travels with the stem. If the oil is high in metallics (ash), then deposits could form. However, the stem is only down for a short time and comes back up for recooling and lubrication by the oil.
Some wear of the EV bushing emanates from the rotation of the exhaust valve.
Besides, most valve stems deposits I have had analyzed were from fuel, not modern oils.
Concerning valve wear on the small block Chevys:
Make sure that you adjust your lifter preload [there is a wide range that will work fine] so that the rocker arm tip sliding on the valve stem has a centered pattern. A majik marker [or similar] can be used, then cycle the engine to leave a mark on the valve stem. Too much or too little preload will show a pattern from one side to center, or center to one side, thus cocking the stem in the bore, and resulting in increased wear. You want a pattern of just before center to just after. Of course, you may need to get pushrods that are longer/shorter to remain in lifter pre-load specs. This applies to hydraulic lifter engines. For mechanical lifters, you have to get the right pushrods, or adjustable ones.
Crappy factory stock alignment in this area is #1 cause of Chevys poor guide reputation [IMO].
Happy Motoring!
Make sure that you adjust your lifter preload [there is a wide range that will work fine] so that the rocker arm tip sliding on the valve stem has a centered pattern. A majik marker [or similar] can be used, then cycle the engine to leave a mark on the valve stem. Too much or too little preload will show a pattern from one side to center, or center to one side, thus cocking the stem in the bore, and resulting in increased wear. You want a pattern of just before center to just after. Of course, you may need to get pushrods that are longer/shorter to remain in lifter pre-load specs. This applies to hydraulic lifter engines. For mechanical lifters, you have to get the right pushrods, or adjustable ones.
Crappy factory stock alignment in this area is #1 cause of Chevys poor guide reputation [IMO].
Happy Motoring!
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