LSPI { low speed pre ignition } is scary…GM 2.0T

[doublebase]

An automatic programmed for fuel economy is bad for LSPI. As with high load demands, it's too reluctant to downshift, causing the situation for LSPI to occur, but better fuel economy.

One could manually shift gears to maintain a relatively high engine speed when they are driving like they stole it.

That’s some interesting points there.

And I noticed it happening with my 2018 Chevy Silverado. When my Silverado would stay in OD on the highway when going up hills, the thing would lug and even misfire. Drove me nuts! I’d also get it pretty bad when I’d first start the truck and drive slowly. It would feel like a fish bite. Like a fish was biting a fishing line.

Traded the truck in with 52,000 miles on it. All easy highway miles, no towing, plowing hauling, working in it. It just couldn’t handle easy commuting. Babied. Imagine maybe if I drove it hard it would have been better.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

That’s some interesting points there.

And I noticed it happening with my 2018 Chevy Silverado. When my Silverado would stay in OD on the highway when going up hills, the thing would lug and even misfire. Drove me nuts! I’d also get it pretty bad when I’d first start the truck and drive slowly. It would feel like a fish bite. Like a fish was biting a fishing line.

Traded the truck in with 52,000 miles on it. All easy highway miles, no towing, plowing hauling, working in it. It just couldn’t handle easy commuting. Babied. Imagine maybe if I drove it hard it would have been better.

Sounds like you had a bad coil wire or a poorly indexed plug or two.
I always put my car in "S" when it starts lugging on hills. Then it will drop a gear. BC I was traditionally a MT driver and if the AT isn't doing its chores correctly I will be its Daddy.

 

[yamahaSHO]

After buying my wife’s 2008 Pontiac Solstice 2.0 T with the automatic transmission and only 32,000 miles I’ve done a lot of reading on this problem with the early, and to some extent the current DI engines and not just GM engines. Recommendation’s of different oils, to certain brands and octane ratings of gas to driving styles, to walnut shell blasting the intake valves to lessen or prevent LSPI have my head spinning. I’ve already changed the oil to Mobil1 5w30 EP, with a Castrol synthetic oil filter cartridge, but I’m wondering if I should drain a qt of the Mobil1 and add a qt of HPL engine cleaner for the first OCI. We foresee only driving it maybe 2,000 miles a year so if I do use the HPL cleaner I don’t know if it would do it’s job in that short of an OCI. So far in 500 miles no codes or hiccups of any kind and drives and handles great but the BITOG OCD seems to be creeping in.

Little bit older thread, but I just bought a Saturn Sky Redline with 9,300 miles on it and doing my research... and here is where it landed me. Particularly, looking at using an ester based oil like Motul 300v.

 

[Opelman]

Those were also sold in Germany as the Opel GT. All three lines were made in USA from what I understand. I told our Saturn dealer that I would sign on the dotted line immediately if he could get me one in US spec with Opel badging.

 

[edyvw]

Little bit older thread, but I just bought a Saturn Sky Redline with 9,300 miles on it and doing my research... and here is where it landed me. Particularly, looking at using an ester based oil like Motul 300v.

View attachment 183022

Don’t if you are not tracking vehicle. Much better choice is good street oil.

 

[yamahaSHO]

Don’t if you are not tracking vehicle. Much better choice is good street oil.

All cars are track cars.
Seriously, I bought this to be a backup car to my street driven track car, which I've always used 300v in with excellent sample reports:

I plan to AutoX the Saturn, probably this weekend.

 

[gman2304]

I plan to AutoX the Saturn, probably this weekend.

I see some mods in your future……

 

[yamahaSHO]

I see some mods in your future……

*present

 

[edyvw]

All cars are track cars.
Seriously, I bought this to be a backup car to my street driven track car, which I've always used 300v in with excellent sample reports:

View attachment 183028





I plan to AutoX the Saturn, probably this weekend.

That is why I am asking. Don’t get me wrong, I used 300V and have bunch on the shelf, but I use it only during track season. Street anytime off season and than during season sometimes.

 

[bhvrdr]

Little bit older thread, but I just bought a Saturn Sky Redline with 9,300 miles on it and doing my research... and here is where it landed me. Particularly, looking at using an ester based oil like Motul 300v.

View attachment 183022

The 300v competition oils are now formulated for LSPI mitigation. You should have no issues running that oil between track sessions. Track sessions themselves would be no issue as you'd never be at wot at low rpm.

 

[ShearStable]

After buying my wife’s 2008 Pontiac Solstice 2.0 T with the automatic transmission and only 32,000 miles I’ve done a lot of reading on this problem with the early, and to some extent the current DI engines and not just GM engines. Recommendation’s of different oils, to certain brands and octane ratings of gas to driving styles, to walnut shell blasting the intake valves to lessen or prevent LSPI have my head spinning. I’ve already changed the oil to Mobil1 5w30 EP, with a Castrol synthetic oil filter cartridge, but I’m wondering if I should drain a qt of the Mobil1 and add a qt of HPL engine cleaner for the first OCI. We foresee only driving it maybe 2,000 miles a year so if I do use the HPL cleaner I don’t know if it would do it’s job in that short of an OCI. So far in 500 miles no codes or hiccups of any kind and drives and handles great but the BITOG OCD seems to be creeping in.

Amsoil Signature Series.
100% LSPI prevention

 

[kschachn]

Amsoil Signature Series.
100% LSPI prevention

During the test. I’m not sure one could extrapolate that into saying that no engine, ever, would be affected.

Other oils pass the same test as well.

Based on zero LSPI events in five consecutive tests of AMSOIL Signature Series, XL and OE 5W-30 Motor Oil in the LSPI engine test required by the GM dexos1 Gen 2 specification.

 

[ShearStable]

During the test. I’m not sure one could extrapolate that into saying that no engine, ever, would be affected.

Other oils pass the same test as well.

Sorry! I should have posted this link with my initial reply. This has some good info in it, especially in regards to the longer an oil is used, the higher the chance LSPI can occur.

LSPI is Still Causing Problems - AMSOIL Blog

Automaker data from the field suggests that Low-speed pre-ignition (LSPI) is still a problem. A LSPI test for used motor oil seems likely.

blog.amsoil.com

 

[kschachn]

And? Again this isn’t unique.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

Little bit older thread, but I just bought a Saturn Sky Redline with 9,300 miles on it and doing my research... and here is where it landed me. Particularly, looking at using an ester based oil like Motul 300v.

View attachment 183022

Nice. My wife almost bought one herself years ago but the manual top was a bit of chore for her.

 

[yamahaSHO]

The 300v competition oils are now formulated for LSPI mitigation. You should have no issues running that oil between track sessions. Track sessions themselves would be no issue as you'd never be at wot at low rpm.

I did read that and I have a case of 10 cans of the new formula here. I have some of the older stuff as well, which goes in the SxS's, mower, and pressure washer now. That said, I sent Motul an e-mail with some clarification questions.

Nice. My wife almost bought one herself years ago but the manual top was a bit of chore for her.

Coming from my S2000, when it used to have the soft top on, the manual top is way more of a pain. The S2000 could be put down/up in seconds, without getting out of the car. It's now just a hard top with a roll bar and two race seats. Most of the interior is there and I am going to put the AC back in (removed it for the turbo setup when I lived in Denver, now live in AR and it's hot/humid).

The S2000 made me realize that I like convertibles, and I'm really liking the top down on the Sky. It's pretty unsafe if I were to roll it, but comparison, so it may not make it to an HPDE, unless we rent the track.

 

[Mainia]

Run premium, run LSPI speced oil and make sure to run two full tank fulls back to back of top tier injection clean like Redline SI-1, Amsoil, ect. right off the bat to make sure your injector are on the cleaner side. I would suggest ONE time use a ester based oil like Redline Performance 5w-30 Euro, Motul 300, or HPL ester based oils to do a cleaning of ring lands from carbon. I use to use Redline Performance 5w-30 Euro as my main oil, but could no longer afford their price gouge. I run it once a year now as a cleaning oil. Don't drive it in eco mode and enjoy it. Don't spend time worrying it may never happen, especially if you take measures lie above. I myself would buy a new set of OEM sparkplug coils to top it off. But that is just me.

 

[ShearStable]

Run premium, run LSPI speced oil and make sure to run two full tank fulls back to back of top tier injection clean like Redline SI-1, Amsoil, ect. right off the bat to make sure your injector are on the cleaner side. I would suggest ONE time use a ester based oil like Redline Performance 5w-30 Euro, Motul 300, or HPL ester based oils to do a cleaning of ring lands from carbon. I use to use Redline Performance 5w-30 Euro as my main oil, but could no longer afford their price gouge. I run it once a year now as a cleaning oil. Don't drive it in eco mode and enjoy it. Don't spend time worrying it may never happen, especially if you take measures lie above. I myself would buy a new set of OEM sparkplug coils to top it off. But that is just me.

Have you found Eco mode to negatively impact oil, or the engine?

 

[yamahaSHO]

Eco modes generally favor low engine speed, which generally uses increased load to get the vehicle going. I tried this one in our Ford Maverick. When it wouldn't get out of it's own way after a yield sign, I turned that crap off. I am probably going to remove the drive mode all together via Forscan.

 

[ShearStable]

Eco modes generally favor low engine speed, which generally uses increased load to get the vehicle going. I tried this one in our Ford Maverick. When it wouldn't get out of it's own way after a yield sign, I turned that crap off. I am probably going to remove the drive mode all together via Forscan.

Interesting..... I have been using Eco mode for years. But I also have never had any issues either with my maintenance schedules.
But Eco I find isn't good for commuting, as the agility is lost for the sake of saving fuel