Low use '69 Mustang 428CJ

[NYBob]

I stumbled on this site recently & spent many hours surfing around. I have a different application than what I have been reading here & would really appreciate some of your opinions…

I have a 1969 Mustang with a high compression 428CJ that was rebuilt about 15,000 miles ago (about 8 years ago). It was broken in with several changes of Castrol GTX 10w30 and I then moved on to Mobil-1 10w30 for the dry start advantages. I live in the northeast & the car is only driven about 1,000 – 2,000 miles per year & rarely in winter. The engine does not burn any oil & never needs any additions before my annual spring oil change.

I’ve been concerned about the SM standard & the lowering of Zinc & Phosphorous in general as the engine is stock with flat-tappet lifters. I recently changed to Royal Purple 10w30 (at $9.00 per quart!) as it was still listed with the API SF standard. I had considered Mobil-1 High Mileage 10w40, but I’m not sure if the HM additives would do more harm than good to an engine with only 15K on it... also the builder had recommended that I stay with 10w30.

With the low mileage & cold start-ups (often weeks apart), I would like to keep engine wear to a minimum, which is why I switched to synthetics in the first place. But, going forward, what kind of oil would everyone recommend that I use for my application?

Thanks very much & Happy New Year!

 

[Johnny]

to BITOG

Nice Mustang with a nice engine. I would stick with what you are doing right now. However I believe you can find Royal Purple for less than $9.00 qt. eBay can be you friend here.

 

[demarpaint]

My cousin had new in 1970 a 428 CJ Torino Cobra 4 speed. That was one fast car in its day, and with the mods he did to it, it was scary fast.

Frank D

 

[StevieC]

I know that many Amsoil oils have higher levels of ZDDP that others, you could also spring for a pre-oiler pump that will spray oil all over the engine before you turn it over.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: StevieC
I know that many Amsoil oils have higher levels of ZDDP that others, you could also spring for a pre-oiler pump that will spray oil all over the engine before you turn it over.

The pre-luber is a grear idea! I have a one I installed in a van that did a lot of sitting in the garage. Mine is mounted on top of the wheel well, and attached to a toggle switch. Flip the switch watch the oil pressure build, then start the car. No dry starts ever.

Frank D

 

[LC]

Have you looked into Brad Penn oils?
They make a great 10w30 for your CJ.

 

[StevieC]

I hooked one up for a friend using a relay to the ignition switch. He would turn the key to the ON position but without the engine running and the pump would activate, he would delay a few seconds then crank/start the engine which would then power the other side of the relay and cause the pump to stop and stay stopped. We then added a manual switch into the circuit that could be flipped to keep the pump off if the engine was being serviced and the key needed to be in the "ON" position without the engine running for some reason. (Dads a mechanic so I'm a geek!)

 

[demarpaint]

I could have hooked mine up that way, but went with the toggle switch instead. It is second nature when I go into the van to flip the switch. What is cool about it is you can actually see how much faster synthetic oil moves the pressure gauge when its cold out, than a dino of the same grade does.

You can also flip the switch after you've run an engine hard in very hot conditions, and use the oil to cool the internals down. You can also hook up the line that goes from the pump into the engine to drain the oil too, but I stick to crawling under it.

Frank D

 

[StevieC]

True... I hooked it up for my friend this way because he isn't the sharpest knife in the drawer and doesn't really get how it works, just wants "The best protection" for his classic. So I convinced him to use a good Syn and a pre-oiler.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: StevieC
True... I hooked it up for my friend this way because he isn't the sharpest knife in the drawer and doesn't really get how it works, just wants "The best protection" for his classic. So I convinced him to use a good Syn and a pre-oiler.


I think you gave him the best possible advise. The way you wired him up took all the thinking out of the equation!

Frank D

 

[StevieC]

Yup... I told him "So you put the key in, turn it to the ON position wait 5-10 seconds, then crank it till it starts" So easy anyone can do it.

I would install one on my SUV but it's a PITA with no room under the hood and a gazillion wires under the steering column.

I drive it everyday anyways...

 

[HTSS_TR]

Originally Posted By: NYBob
... I recently changed to Royal Purple 10w30 (at $9.00 per quart!) ...


I saw Royal Purple at Walmart in So Cal at $7.xx/qt

 

[OVERKILL]

I'd recommend an HDEO like Delvac 1 5w40/M1 TDT 5w40.

Was the engine rebuilt with stock clearances? Is the car raced? What kind of driving does it see?

 

[NYBob]

Thanks, everyone for your responses. I'll need to look into a pre-luber if I can keep it discreet. Otherwise the Delvac sounds like a possibility - I'm just looking for something that will cling for a long time & pump up quickly. I'm not sure if it will harm anything if I use a 5W weight.

The engine was rebuilt to stock clearances & parts (with the exception of hardened valve seats). The type of driving I do is typical cruising where I drive a lot around town & then blast it up & down the highway some

Brad Penn was mentioned earlier, I never heard of it - but looking at their website, it seemed interesting.

I have a couple of questions.
I've read on this Forum that many people don't like Royal Purple, are there any drawbacks to using it for such low mileages between changes?

Anyone have an opinion about ZDPlus? I could go back to Mobil-1 & just add 1/2 bottle of that if it is really compatible. Or should I just use Amsoil, it seems to be real popular & has plenty of ZN & Phos.

 

[OVERKILL]

Delvac 1/M1 TDT is one of, if not THE most robust off the shelf oil. It's got plenty of protection due to the fact that it's a heavy duty lubricant designed for diesel use.

Doug Hillary has done extensive field testing with this oil and has recently posted up some bearing pictures and some relevant information concerning its performance.

It is probably overkill for your application, hence my reason for recommending it

 

[txrhino]

Some of the guys on the mustang forums add the ZDDP plus stuff, but it is kind of pricey. I used Valvoline VR-1 for the first 1K miles or so on my '67 mustang. I then switched to M1 Turbo diesel 5W-40.

 

[TallPaul]

Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil is fine for street use and has about 1200 ppm zinc and phosphorus. Comes in 10w30.

 

[Ed_T]

What do you run for fuel in this beast? The stuff now is a far cry from leaded premium of ages ago...!

 

[mechtech2]

I am surprised that engine uses no oil.
Big blocks of that era [GM, Ford, Chrysler] all use oil.
Especially with 10-30.
Must be a nice rebuild - better than factory.

Anyway, I would suggest a 5-40 full synthetic diesel oil, like Rotella in that engine.

 

[NYBob]

I run OK on premium, but I can't advance the timing without it knocking. I think that it was a nice rebuid, I remember that the engine was so tight when I first got it back that it would hardly turn over & needed lots of gas to get going. I'm sure that's why it calls for 10w-30.

If I go with one of the diesel engine oils, will it have the correct level of additives for my motor? I've been following the debates on this forum & find it all facinating, but I'm leaning toward the Amsoil right now since I really want a nice clingy synthetic. I think that I still have quite a bit more to learn though.