Low profile yet strong fastener remover?

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Okay guys, put your thinking caps on! Trying to get 2 17mm bolts off the S60's front control arms. I've let the bolts soak in PB Blaster and have no access to a lift or a torch. I have new bolts so no big deal if these break. It needs to have some sort of bend or flex so it can clear the sub frame's ledge and the engine, but also allow me to get some decent leverage. Lots of pulling causes the car to sway while on my stands, which is rather scary too. I am using 3 ton stands to hold the car up, but I keep the floor jacks in place as well. I've tried: Offset wrench with a 43oz ball pein, which allowed me to loosen the driver side. Long handled GearWrench 120XP 3/8" ratchet with a flex head. (Too much flex at the pin; I'll break it before the bolt.) This ratcheting device from HF: (Weaker pin than the 120XP.) https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-38-in-drive-long-reach-dual-flex-head-ratchet-67994.html The area I have to work with is where the guy's index finger is. The bolts are for the front most horizontal bushing. Passenger side shown in photo. Outer view of the bushing shown for clarity. Horizontal bushing at the right side of the photo.
 

ZeeOSix

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Don't fully understand the layout, but if you're not using a 6-point socket you are sure to round off the head. If that happens it will really complicate the whole ordeal.
 

dlundblad

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Here's a view of the control arm. The 2 bolts for that horizontal bushing is what's giving me heck. In photo 1 of my OP, the bolts are about where the guys index finger is.
 
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Do you have room for 1/2" drive tools here? HF has a long flex 1/2 ratchet, the extra leverage would probably do the trick, if a 1/2 drive 17mm socket and ratchet will work. Or a long breaker bar?
 

dlundblad

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Originally Posted By: Trav
You may have to jack the drive train up a little. Can you get the offset wrench on it?
Yes. I just need more leverage.
 
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I saw this one trick using a impact gun/chisel to dig into the head a little and drive it counterclockwise.
 
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have you tried a 17mm box end wrench? if it fits where you need it take a second 18-19mm box end and hook it onto the opposite-open end of the 17mm to double its length as a lever. Done this trick a hundred times on rusty car bolts.
 
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Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: Trav
You may have to jack the drive train up a little. Can you get the offset wrench on it?
Yes. I just need more leverage.
BF dead blow hammer!
 
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Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: Trav
You may have to jack the drive train up a little. Can you get the offset wrench on it?
Yes. I just need more leverage.
Have you tried connecting a long box-end wrench to the other end of the offset wrench to increase the length? This has saved me many times in tight angles. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ja7Ax45DGT8
 

dlundblad

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Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: Trav
You may have to jack the drive train up a little. Can you get the offset wrench on it?
Yes. I just need more leverage.
BF dead blow hammer!
The ball pein I used was a dead blow if that matters.
 

dlundblad

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Originally Posted By: maxdustington
If it will not budge with PB it is time to step up to atf/acetone.
Tried it.
 

dlundblad

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Originally Posted By: NoNameJoe
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: Trav
You may have to jack the drive train up a little. Can you get the offset wrench on it?
Yes. I just need more leverage.
Have you tried connecting a long box-end wrench to the other end of the offset wrench to increase the length? This has saved me many times in tight angles. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ja7Ax45DGT8
This may work if I can keep it balanced.
 

dlundblad

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Originally Posted By: Kawiguy454
have you tried a 17mm box end wrench? if it fits where you need it take a second 18-19mm box end and hook it onto the opposite-open end of the 17mm to double its length as a lever. Done this trick a hundred times on rusty car bolts.
It needs to be offset. The sub frame has a ledge that I need to clear.
 
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Hmm... I'd try:
  • short 3/8" socket and long ratchet/breaker
  • box-end wrench (XL-pattern, double box-end or double a set of combos for leverage)
  • jack up engine a bit and attack with some form of socket, swivel, extensions and/or impact
 

dlundblad

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Originally Posted By: RyanY
Are these bolts rusted or held by thread locker? This would determine whether you need to buy a torch or not.
Should just be rusted as I was able to break 2 of the 3 on the driver side. I have new bolts now so it doesn't matter of these break.
 
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