Low Oil pressure issues when cold?

[hansj3]

I have a 2015 Toyota Tacoma, it has the 2TRFE 4 cyl.

Having an odd issue. I first saw it last year but it was not that common.

Some of the time on cold startups, I would almost lose prime and the oil light would initially shut off and then turn back on.
By cold I was looking at negative temperatures more often than not.

Last year I was running a 0W20. I can't remember what, and a fram ultra, although it was admittedly a 3600 witch isn't exactly the correct application.


This year I am running Mobil 1 0W30 afe. I'm using the right application fram Ultra, The part number escapes me currently, and it's still doing it

When I notice the issue, if I shut the truck off and fire it back up. I have no oil pressure issues. The oil light will eventually go out, but not before the lifters start tapping so it's generally not a good thing.

I have zero issues in the summertime. Any thoughts?

 

[JavierH19]

That's really odd. As a last ditch effort I think i'd throw a tgmo filter on it just to eliminate that for certain though I don't think it's the issue. It's cheap enough to try but i don't think oil choice is the issue. If it was mine I'd use pup 0w-20. It's just known to pump super well compared to others but it's still not that cold for any 0w-20/30

 

[atikovi]

Unless it hasn't been started in weeks, the engine parts will still have a film of oil coating the mating surfaces. The oil light coming on is saying pressure dropped below say 6 psi, not that it dropped to 0. For a few seconds at idling speed, its nothing to worry about.

 

[Snagglefoot]

I have a 2015 Toyota Tacoma, it has the 2TRFE 4 cyl.

Having an odd issue. I first saw it last year but it was not that common.

Some of the time on cold startups, I would almost lose prime and the oil light would initially shut off and then turn back on.
By cold I was looking at negative temperatures more often than not.

Last year I was running a 0W20. I can't remember what, and a fram ultra, although it was admittedly a 3600 witch isn't exactly the correct application.


This year I am running Mobil 1 0W30 afe. I'm using the right application fram Ultra, The part number escapes me currently, and it's still doing it

When I notice the issue, if I shut the truck off and fire it back up. I have no oil pressure issues. The oil light will eventually go out, but not before the lifters start tapping so it's generally not a good thing.

I have zero issues in the summertime. Any thoughts?

What sort of air temperature are you talking about. I’m having some issues at -4 F on my 6.0 LS engine.

 

[hansj3]

Unless it hasn't been started in weeks, the engine parts will still have a film of oil coating the mating surfaces. The oil light coming on is saying pressure dropped below say 6 psi, not that it dropped to 0. For a few seconds at idling speed, its nothing to worry about.

For a few moments I wouldn't be so upset, but it's long enough for the lifters to depressurize and start clattering away. It can take upwards of a half minute to sort itself out. Thats
worrisome to me. It seems as though It actually has zero or very close to zero oil pressure. The truck is used as a commuter, It spends most of its life in the garage which is heated at right around freezing or so, so it only happens when it's parked outside, like when I'm at work, but still.

What sort of air temperature are you talking about. I’m having some issues at -4 F on my 6.0 LS engine.

I've seen it as high as 15° f, but usually it's right around zero or below. The engine has to be thoroughly cold so at least three to four hours.


Otherwise this engine was kept up rather well. The motor interior has looked very clean when I did the valve cover, It seems like it's been following the OEM 5000 mi oil change interval, and I know I've kept up on it through the last 25,000 miles, when I bought it.

 

[Snagglefoot]

What’s the oil pressure when driving at down the highway?

 

[hansj3]

What’s the oil pressure when driving at down the highway?

Unsure. The truck doesn't come with a gauge. I just looked it up as well, and it's a one-wire sensor so I'm 99% sure it's just an oil pressure switch, so I'm unable to even read live data.

It doesn't appear to have any oil pressure issues when warm, even with 0W20, on the hottest days, so I haven't thought it necessary to take a mechanical reading.

It's acting almost like the oil pump bypass pops open and is unable to close, or the pickup screen is kind of clogged maybe... But you figure it was clogged, you'd lose oil pressure when at higher RPM during cold, but it seems like it almost goes away when you rev it up a little bit.


Idk

 

[another Todd]

If the oil pick up tube has an o-ring seal, maybe the o-ring is not sealing when it is super cold and the pump sucks air.

 

[2000Trooper]

I found this thread on google. My 2016 started doing this recently so you’re not the only one. In the worst case the oil light remained on for a while. It seems like eternity when it happened but in retrospect maybe 5-10 seconds? I think one of the VVTI cam phasers is going out on mine. So I’m not sure if that’s maybe causing oil pressure to not build up as quick? im running tgmo yzzd3 filters which are bought from the dealer so they shouldn’t be fakes. I’m running 5w30 Kirkland synthetic. Before anyone pulls the trigger and blames the oil weight I’ve been running this oil for the past 100k miles and it’s not its first winter so I doubt it’s that.

I was initially googling hoping to find info on whether there is a case of oil pumps or some other component going out prematurely. Trying to figure out if it’s worth replacing anything else while I’m in there though the symptoms don’t seem to point to an oil pump. Oil light or not my winter cold starts(car has to sit over night as well) typically start with a rattled/clack clack clack coming from the front valve train area. Someone else on Tacomaworld with the same issue said replacing the camphaser fixed the issue. Judging by the sound that’s exactly where the sound is coming from and I was just going to bite the cost and replace both and whatever else. I just don’t want to pull the front of the engine twice. I’m not an expert on variable valve timing stuff but I’m hoping the camphaser is what’s causing the oil light issue. Maybe someone else can chime in?

Are you running a fumoto valve by any chance? I’ve had one on for two years and I’m wondering if that’s preventing “everything” from coming out and whether there is sludge/junk build up that’s slowly been clogging the sump screen. I’m pretty proactive with my oil changes and do 5k on the clock typically. Black stone has said I can go longer though I don’t. So sludge being the culprit is fairly unlikely but at this point I’m trying to rule out everything.

 

[ktmash]

Hey There!

Hopefully you can shine some light on this issue and what you did to fix it? This is the only forum on the internet that explains the EXACT issue with my 2015 2.7 Tacoma.

One cold morning after a remote start i had exactly this issue, Even described it as the lifters collapsed as you did. Since the first time i haven't seen / heard the lifters collapse but on all cold mornings at or below 25f the oil pressure light stays on for 15-20 seconds and the vvti gear may make a knock or two before going away and all is well.

I hesitate to say this is a VVTI related issue as i have spoken to a Toyota tech privately and he stated he has seen plenty of VVTI loud cold starts but they usually do not come with an oil pressure warning light.

I also checked oil pressure later that day (it was warmer maybe 50 degrees), had perfect pressure if not a tiny bit high at idle (30+ cold and 22 psi warm at idle), Cut the filter open absolutely no signs of clogging or metal and dropped the pan and everything looked pretty clean for 160k miles. I always run mobile 1 0w-20 high mileage with an OEM filter at 5k intervals.

Does anyone have any ideas??

 

[emmett442]

As someone has previously mentioned, many times these symptoms are a problem on the suction side of things. Pump-to-pickup tube leak.

 

[ktmash]

As someone has previously mentioned, many times these symptoms are a problem on the suction side of things. Pump-to-pickup tube leak.

I was hopping OP could hop on and confirm that was the issue. Plan to drop the pan and replace all seals this weekend.

 

[hansj3]

Last year I pulled the pan and checked. Slapped it all back together and had no luck. I don't know what the total history on this truck is as I bought it used, But the bottom end of that motor was sparkling clean.

Running 0w20 and 5,000 mile of oil change intervals.

I was hopping OP could hop on and confirm that was the issue. Plan to drop the pan and replace all seals this weekend.

Wouldn't go through that effort unless I had another issue to address. Last year was pretty warm here in Minnesota, But like I said it still didn't fix the issue.

It's been in The 20° region, and I'm not having issues with short cold soak, 4 and 1/2 hours from the time I get to work until lunch, and 3 and 1/2 hours after lunch till I get home. I get to park in the garage. So, no overnight Cold soak.

This year I did three things. I changed the oil with Valvoline 0w20 restore and protect and a fram Fe 3600 synthetic endurance, I threw in a pint of rislone engine treatment, and I removed my oil control valve (VVTi) and cleaned it with brake clean while actuating it


No idea whether the oil or filter had any impact, I've always run a decent full synthetic and haven't had issues otherwise. I've tried a bunch of different filters though. They've never seemed to change anything. (Synthetic endurance filters do advertise high flow so eh?)

But there was some stiction in the oil control solenoid. Soaking it and running the action seemed to clean up some gunk behind that could have been binding up the solenoid.

There's a filter in there as well, separate from the solenoid, But if that's clogged up that would cause a completely separate issue. It's a good thing to check, and they're 10 bucks from the dealership but I wouldn't worry about it. They are both on the driver side of the cylinder head in line with the intake manifold openings. The filter is the plug just below The V6 guys do note that they do Coke up over time.

If you want to go through dropping the pan, and have a four-wheel drive truck, just know that it's rather difficult. You have to drop the front axle to get enough clearance, and even then I think it's very difficult to pull the pickup without dropping the upper pan. At that point it's easier to pull the motor.

If you come up with anything let me know please. I still don't know that I've fixed mine, But like I said I'm not seeing issues where I might have seen a few now

 

[hansj3]

I found this thread on google. My 2016 started doing this recently so you’re not the only one. In the worst case the oil light remained on for a while. It seems like eternity when it happened but in retrospect maybe 5-10 seconds? I think one of the VVTI cam phasers is going out on mine. So I’m not sure if that’s maybe causing oil pressure to not build up as quick? im running tgmo yzzd3 filters which are bought from the dealer so they shouldn’t be fakes. I’m running 5w30 Kirkland synthetic. Before anyone pulls the trigger and blames the oil weight I’ve been running this oil for the past 100k miles and it’s not its first winter so I doubt it’s that.

I was initially googling hoping to find info on whether there is a case of oil pumps or some other component going out prematurely. Trying to figure out if it’s worth replacing anything else while I’m in there though the symptoms don’t seem to point to an oil pump. Oil light or not my winter cold starts(car has to sit over night as well) typically start with a rattled/clack clack clack coming from the front valve train area. Someone else on Tacomaworld with the same issue said replacing the camphaser fixed the issue. Judging by the sound that’s exactly where the sound is coming from and I was just going to bite the cost and replace both and whatever else. I just don’t want to pull the front of the engine twice. I’m not an expert on variable valve timing stuff but I’m hoping the camphaser is what’s causing the oil light issue. Maybe someone else can chime in?

Are you running a fumoto valve by any chance? I’ve had one on for two years and I’m wondering if that’s preventing “everything” from coming out and whether there is sludge/junk build up that’s slowly been clogging the sump screen. I’m pretty proactive with my oil changes and do 5k on the clock typically. Black stone has said I can go longer though I don’t. So sludge being the culprit is fairly unlikely but at this point I’m trying to rule out everything.

I was hopping OP could hop on and confirm that was the issue. Plan to drop the pan and replace all seals this weekend.

Hey guys, just a heads up, I honestly think I got it this time.

Cleaning out the oil control solenoid for the vvti system has made a huge improvement in how long my oil light stays on.

I just started my truck at lunch, It's currently -1 when I got to work it was -7 Fahrenheit, and my oil light just flickered for a half second, or about what a normal car would do at these temperatures.

It's been cold here in Minnesota for the past couple days, and I don't think I've started my truck when it's been above. 20° f. No issues. I will have to see when it gets truly cold around here.

My best guess, Is that The oil control solenoid is contained with a spool valve, and the spool valve travels towards the solenoid, into a blind hole.

I'm guessing that when it's cold it kicks over there and gets trapped in in some sludge. It's never meant to operate stuck like that, and when it's stuck like that it bypasses oil back down into the pan, dumping pressure . Seems I was able to clean it out with some brake clean. I didn't even bother with the filter I posted, although I probably should.

 

[ktmash]

Hello Everyone,

I have some information!

As stated before i had a very specific issue of my engine being very cold and unable to pickup oil pressure for an extended period of time, Sometimes it would solve its self after about 20-30 full seconds, OR it wouldn't and would run on no oil pressure and sound very loud until you blipped the throttle every so slightly. I can not speak for others on this forum but i will post the pictures of my damaged pickup tube.

You must pull the upper pan to take off the pickup tube as this is a pretty poor design and the pickup tube does not bolt to the oil pump in any way, It is sandwiched between the upper oil pan and the bottom of the block (this may be different for other 2015's depending on your manufacture date) For this reason a shrinking cold o-ring makes perfect sense to me since its literally just floating in the pan rather than being bolted to the bottom of the oil pump.

Once i pulled the pan i immediately saw how the o-ring was out of round and pretty flat, I took my finger and ran it around the o-ring to feel for splits and this piece of plastic completely fell off in my hands. You can see pretty clearly the o-ring is pretty smashed and misshapen.(Disregard the Debris in the pan, VERY windy day to take it outside for a picture. I have already cut open my oil filter and saw absolutely no metal)

I am not sure why the o-ring groove is not a full circle and why it had these tabs holding the o-ring... As seen here the new one is MUCH beefier, maybe Toyota say this coming?

Here is another one showing how flat the old o-ring truly is. (My eyes tell me the pickup is also slightly warped but that could just be me)

This job took me about 6.5 hours including an hour hold over for the RTV on each pan. I will say this is completely impossible if you have a 4wd, You are better off dropping the entire front axle or pulling the engine as the other gentleman mentioned on this thread.

The truck has not been fixed for long but i can say i have had absolutely no issues, I will be curious to see how it acts in 20 degrees or below because that is usually how cold it had to get for the symptoms to show up. I have a theory that you could possibly mitigate this issue with an old school additive or seal sweller of some sort but due to me not having a 4wd and being this is one of the main commuters i wanted more of a solid answer.


In doing this and ordering parts i did learn that there was a mid year change somewhere in 2015 and 2016, I believe if you have an early 2015 you may be lucky and have a metal pickup tube, (Don't quote me on that) and 2016 is a completely different pan design.

Just want to give a huge thank you to everyone on this forum as they all played a role in finding this issue, Fingers crossed this was it! Thanks for the suggestions guys.



Edit ------


I would like to add that i did run an engine cleaner for i want to say about 150 miles before attempting this fix, I was hoping it truly was something dirty but in my opinion the issue started to get worse after doing so, Maybe it shrunk and cleaned the gunk from the o-ring? Lol

 

[ktmash]

We had a cold night, Low of 9 degrees.
Last time i had ice on the windshield the light stayed on for 23 seconds and the VVTi gear started to knock.

Today, After the new pickup tube and seal the light was off before i even let go of the key. I am pretty confident this was it, As i tried the engine cleaner before the 23 second incident. Only thing that has changed since is the pickup tube.

I hope this forum helps someone down the road.. Good luck guys! this one was a doozy