Low Oil pressure issues when cold?

[hansj3]

I have a 2015 Toyota Tacoma, it has the 2TRFE 4 cyl.

Having an odd issue. I first saw it last year but it was not that common.

Some of the time on cold startups, I would almost lose prime and the oil light would initially shut off and then turn back on.
By cold I was looking at negative temperatures more often than not.

Last year I was running a 0W20. I can't remember what, and a fram ultra, although it was admittedly a 3600 witch isn't exactly the correct application.


This year I am running Mobil 1 0W30 afe. I'm using the right application fram Ultra, The part number escapes me currently, and it's still doing it

When I notice the issue, if I shut the truck off and fire it back up. I have no oil pressure issues. The oil light will eventually go out, but not before the lifters start tapping so it's generally not a good thing.

I have zero issues in the summertime. Any thoughts?

 

[JavierH19]

That's really odd. As a last ditch effort I think i'd throw a tgmo filter on it just to eliminate that for certain though I don't think it's the issue. It's cheap enough to try but i don't think oil choice is the issue. If it was mine I'd use pup 0w-20. It's just known to pump super well compared to others but it's still not that cold for any 0w-20/30

 

[atikovi]

Unless it hasn't been started in weeks, the engine parts will still have a film of oil coating the mating surfaces. The oil light coming on is saying pressure dropped below say 6 psi, not that it dropped to 0. For a few seconds at idling speed, its nothing to worry about.

 

[Snagglefoot]

I have a 2015 Toyota Tacoma, it has the 2TRFE 4 cyl.

Having an odd issue. I first saw it last year but it was not that common.

Some of the time on cold startups, I would almost lose prime and the oil light would initially shut off and then turn back on.
By cold I was looking at negative temperatures more often than not.

Last year I was running a 0W20. I can't remember what, and a fram ultra, although it was admittedly a 3600 witch isn't exactly the correct application.


This year I am running Mobil 1 0W30 afe. I'm using the right application fram Ultra, The part number escapes me currently, and it's still doing it

When I notice the issue, if I shut the truck off and fire it back up. I have no oil pressure issues. The oil light will eventually go out, but not before the lifters start tapping so it's generally not a good thing.

I have zero issues in the summertime. Any thoughts?

What sort of air temperature are you talking about. I’m having some issues at -4 F on my 6.0 LS engine.

 

[hansj3]

Unless it hasn't been started in weeks, the engine parts will still have a film of oil coating the mating surfaces. The oil light coming on is saying pressure dropped below say 6 psi, not that it dropped to 0. For a few seconds at idling speed, its nothing to worry about.

For a few moments I wouldn't be so upset, but it's long enough for the lifters to depressurize and start clattering away. It can take upwards of a half minute to sort itself out. Thats
worrisome to me. It seems as though It actually has zero or very close to zero oil pressure. The truck is used as a commuter, It spends most of its life in the garage which is heated at right around freezing or so, so it only happens when it's parked outside, like when I'm at work, but still.

What sort of air temperature are you talking about. I’m having some issues at -4 F on my 6.0 LS engine.

I've seen it as high as 15° f, but usually it's right around zero or below. The engine has to be thoroughly cold so at least three to four hours.


Otherwise this engine was kept up rather well. The motor interior has looked very clean when I did the valve cover, It seems like it's been following the OEM 5000 mi oil change interval, and I know I've kept up on it through the last 25,000 miles, when I bought it.

 

[Snagglefoot]

What’s the oil pressure when driving at down the highway?

 

[hansj3]

What’s the oil pressure when driving at down the highway?

Unsure. The truck doesn't come with a gauge. I just looked it up as well, and it's a one-wire sensor so I'm 99% sure it's just an oil pressure switch, so I'm unable to even read live data.

It doesn't appear to have any oil pressure issues when warm, even with 0W20, on the hottest days, so I haven't thought it necessary to take a mechanical reading.

It's acting almost like the oil pump bypass pops open and is unable to close, or the pickup screen is kind of clogged maybe... But you figure it was clogged, you'd lose oil pressure when at higher RPM during cold, but it seems like it almost goes away when you rev it up a little bit.


Idk

 

[another Todd]

If the oil pick up tube has an o-ring seal, maybe the o-ring is not sealing when it is super cold and the pump sucks air.

 

[2000Trooper]

I found this thread on google. My 2016 started doing this recently so you’re not the only one. In the worst case the oil light remained on for a while. It seems like eternity when it happened but in retrospect maybe 5-10 seconds? I think one of the VVTI cam phasers is going out on mine. So I’m not sure if that’s maybe causing oil pressure to not build up as quick? im running tgmo yzzd3 filters which are bought from the dealer so they shouldn’t be fakes. I’m running 5w30 Kirkland synthetic. Before anyone pulls the trigger and blames the oil weight I’ve been running this oil for the past 100k miles and it’s not its first winter so I doubt it’s that.

I was initially googling hoping to find info on whether there is a case of oil pumps or some other component going out prematurely. Trying to figure out if it’s worth replacing anything else while I’m in there though the symptoms don’t seem to point to an oil pump. Oil light or not my winter cold starts(car has to sit over night as well) typically start with a rattled/clack clack clack coming from the front valve train area. Someone else on Tacomaworld with the same issue said replacing the camphaser fixed the issue. Judging by the sound that’s exactly where the sound is coming from and I was just going to bite the cost and replace both and whatever else. I just don’t want to pull the front of the engine twice. I’m not an expert on variable valve timing stuff but I’m hoping the camphaser is what’s causing the oil light issue. Maybe someone else can chime in?

Are you running a fumoto valve by any chance? I’ve had one on for two years and I’m wondering if that’s preventing “everything” from coming out and whether there is sludge/junk build up that’s slowly been clogging the sump screen. I’m pretty proactive with my oil changes and do 5k on the clock typically. Black stone has said I can go longer though I don’t. So sludge being the culprit is fairly unlikely but at this point I’m trying to rule out everything.