Liqui-Moly Engine Flush

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Sep 15, 2020
Messages
166
I just used the Liqui-Moly Engine Flush, ran it for 30min instead of 10min it says on the label. Wow this stuff works great. Just be sure the engine is up to temp before using.
 
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I haven’t used the engine flush from them yet. I have used the fuel additives and so far they work good from what I can tell.
I've used it the last 3 changes, it's $10...figured why not. Did a before/after UOA and saw nothing meaningfully different between them but lower viscosity for the after flush sample. It's certainly not going to hurt anything.
 
I hope you dont come back and bad mouth the product if the engine bearing start doing a song and dance.
If he added the can to cold engine oil and idled for 30 min, it might be ok.

But adding it to hot oil and idling for 30 min is pretty sketchy.

Of course, sump capacity and viscosity of the existing oil are also factors. It all depends.
 
To some of the comments above:

I collected a sample before I added the flush. Then I added the flush (to warm oil), ran 10 min per LM's instructions, drained and collected a second sample which was lower viscosity than the first obviously due to the water-like viscosity of the flush. Just making sure you understand/think there was some confusion. Pre and post-flush samples below.
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Never understood flushes. What's being flushed out? All the gunk? How did it get there, and where's it going when it was loosened up? The gunk can only be on the engine surfaces, in the oil, or in the filter. How do we know it worked? And what happens if any ports or channels are blocked by the loosened gunk? A well maintained vehicle shouldn't need a flush, even after 200k miles. Modern oils are so fricken awesome that if the oil is changed every 5 - 7k miles and a good filter is used, you can take the valve cover off at 150k miles and the cams will look like they just rolled off the assembly line. And they're making oil better. Don't know how, but it's interesting.
 
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Never understood flushes. What's being flushed out? All the gunk? How did it get there, and where's it going when it was loosened up? The gunk can only be on the engine surfaces, in the oil, or in the filter. How do we know it worked? And what happens if any ports or channels are blocked by the loosened gunk? A well maintained vehicle shouldn't need a flush, even after 200k miles. Modern oils are so fricken awesome that if the oil is changed every 5 - 7k miles and a good filter is used, you can take the valve cover off at 150k miles and the cams will look like they just rolled off the assembly line. And they're making oil better. Don't know how, but it's interesting.
I don't disagree that modern engines/oils with reasonable OCIs will keep it clean. But the notion that anything is getting blocked etc. by bits isn't quite how this goes down or you'd hear about it b/c lots of people use these products...I think its a bit more gentle than that if you have anything that even gets cleaned.
 
If he added the can to cold engine oil and idled for 30 min, it might be ok.

But adding it to hot oil and idling for 30 min is pretty sketchy.

Of course, sump capacity and viscosity of the existing oil are also factors. It all depends.
Highly doubt it - idling is almost zero load which is why they recommend you idle vs. drive it. Figure if they tell you 10-15min the engineering safety factor here is probably hours to deal with your average person that doesn't read the direction....ahhahahaa
 
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