I purchased this oil that was on sale from Amazon to use in my Ninja 650, I was looking for the date code on the container but couldn't find anything and the bottom just had information that was already molded into the plastic but there's a QR code on the cap so I scanned it with my phone and it tells you everything, the batch it was in and the production date. I haven't changed it yet as I'm still waiting for the crush washers to be delivered today but I do have a universal kit if for some reason they don't arrive. Not concerned about being almost a year old, I received SN+ but on their website it shows an older stock photo of SN but the documentation is SP. I know QR codes have been around for a longtime just thought it was neat for an oil manufacturer to do this.
Liqui Moly 10w40 Street Motorcycle oil
- Thread starter Merek
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It is neat to receive feed back... just as interesting is the fact that according to this oil analysis there is no moly in Liqui Moly...
It is neat to receive feed back... just as interesting is the fact that according to this oil analysis there is no moly in Liqui Moly...
I wonder what the formulation is currently, as opposed to over ten years ago.
I was able to change the oil today but the battery was gone. I had charged it before I had it inspected last month but evidently it didn't hold, I ended up having to jump it off my truck to let it warm up and then again after I was done to circulate the oil and check again. I found an Xtreme battery online from Batteries Plus but the terminal posts were not the correct size. The battery cables on mine are not flat, two of the sides are bent over which keeps the cable from twisting as you tighten the bolt. I ended up having to drive all the way back up there and returning it, 30 min each way............ The place I ordered batteries from before doesn't list this one anymore but on Amazon I was able to find the actual Yuasa one. I've seen this before with aftermarket batteries but it's rare, if they had rotated the posts 90 degrees it would've worked, however everything else was a correct fit.
I did find the date code on the Liqui Moly jug and listed as 06/24, I didn't notice it inside but outside in the sun I found it printed on there. I won't be riding again for at least 2 weeks by the time the battery is delivered and I'll have to add the acid and also charge it. I usually wait 24 hrs for the acid to soak in and then factor another one for charging.
I did find the date code on the Liqui Moly jug and listed as 06/24, I didn't notice it inside but outside in the sun I found it printed on there. I won't be riding again for at least 2 weeks by the time the battery is delivered and I'll have to add the acid and also charge it. I usually wait 24 hrs for the acid to soak in and then factor another one for charging.
I am sure this oil will do just fine in your application. I like their 10w-50 variant for my KTM.
The battery came earlier than expected and rode it last weekend. I think the clutch cable needs some lubrication and adjustment. I noticed a few times when riding that it could get stuck in between gears but working the clutch lever it slips right into gear.
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Molybdenum is a friction modifier, this is not good for the clutch. Additives such as molybdenum are used in the passenger car engine to reduce friction and save fuel, which is counterproductive on motorcycles with wet clutch.It is neat to receive feed back... just as interesting is the fact that according to this oil analysis there is no moly in Liqui Moly...
I think that depends on how the fluid/oil is formulated. Here’s a UOA of HPL’s primary fluid. It has 434 ppm of moly.
I'm a big fan of this stuff: https://amzn.to/43PGjlR
Its been great in everything ive owned (different viscosities of course)
Its been great in everything ive owned (different viscosities of course)
What level of moly is detrimental to a wet clutch? Can you share an analysis or post where moly has caused or been believed to cause a clutch to slip on this forum. I'm curious as that is a very definitive statement.
What bike have you had a problem with it in the oil? I'm getting somewhere with this. I've used Redline oil with well over 300 PPM moly in uoa after 5,000 miles (they advertise higher) and many others have as well in a wet sump and had zero issue.
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Molybdenum reduces the frictional performance, which is desired and important for the clutch in the oil bath. BMW even prescribes that you should not use additives of molybdenum in engine oil or in general (is in the manual)
BMW also promotes its own 15w50 Advantec Pro motorcycle oil with 155 ppm moly and 5w40 Advantec with 142 ppm moly...
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Back to my question, what level of moly is negative for performance? BMW oil they recommend seems to have plenty of it.
You do mention additives in engine oil, I'm not aware of many folks that add moly to their motorcycle engine oil, can't recall of that around here in thousands and thousands of posts. That seems to be creating an informational solution to a problem that doesn't exist.
What you are sharing doesn't have backing and a contradiction from BMW themselves with what you are professing.
When you say "or in general" do you mean the oil should have it neither?
Again, what experience have you had with clutch slippage and molybdenum in an oil?
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Molybdenum disulphide, or Moly for short, is used both independently as a dry lubricant and as an additive in lubricating greases. Dry lubricants reduce friction between two sliding surfaces. This is exactly what the clutch is undesirable for a motorcycle with wet clutch.
Manufactures know Moly is a desirable friction modifier but they also
know Moly the oil additive will not defeat our clutch in good operating condition...
They know that the primary cause clutch slip are high mileage...
mileage is the constant among all of the clutches that begin to
slip... not whether BMW factory oil is equipped with Moly or not...
High mileage is the constant where all clutches begin to loose grip
due to normal glazing and contaminates that build up over time...
Have you noticed no one complains about clutch slip when the bike is new???
However around the 50K mile mark owners may notice slip especially if
they do full power up shifts during the rigors of a track day...
If you wish high mileage clutch life then you have to invest is some
good old sweat equity... Under scrutiny you'll find that your slip was
due to normal glazing and contaminates...
Inspect the friction plates for glazing... make sure you have plenty
of material to work with... your shop manual states clutch thickness
in thousands of an inch or mm...
First removed the contaminants with Acetone... pick a hard surface to lay
over a 600 grit black dry emery paper... rotate the clutch plate in a
circle... you're just busting the glaze... don't get carried away
remove too much material... You should end up with a friction plate
looks dull like a new one as opposed to a shinny glazed one... recheck
thickness...
Next check the pressure plates for bluing caused by localized heat...
make sure they are not warped... consult the manual for a thickness
range... now removed the contaminants with Acetone and wire wheeled
them to erased the blue and also to generally scuff up the surface...
you should end up with a dull surface free of Blue marks...
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The misinformation and contradiction you are creating is escaping you. It's clear moly is present in modern motorcycle oils and does not cause a problem.
This is almost like an AI generated discussion with respect to the way your posting continues with your inability to address points of experience, address your argument versus the fact BMW recommends a high moly oil, etc.
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