Lifting engine out for high mileage service?

[SZR48207]

For various reasons, I'm feeling compelled to try and remove the 4.2 V6 engine from my F150 to properly fix some issues that have been nagging for a few years. Truck is a 2002 and about to turn 150K miles in a few weeks.

1. Engine mounts are old and dried. Already have replacements but I couldn't change them out with the engine in the truck.

2. These trucks are notorious for oil pan gasket leaks. Factory pan "gasket" is a sloppily applied RTV with a half-circle silicone piece for the front of the pan. The crossmember doesn't unbolt so you HAVE to remove the engine to service the pan.

3. These trucks also seem to have oil leaks from the cylinder head gasket toward the rear of the engine. The oil all over the starter and back of the engine would indicate that is the case with my truck.

4. The IMRC actuators at the BACK of the engine have plastic bushings that wear out and eventually you get stuck with an OBD code for "IMRC Runner stuck open". Mine still seem to be attached but most don't last this long.

5. I plan on putting in a new thermostat and new radiator hoses. This would be a LOT easier with the engine out.

6. I'd like to pull the valve covers and see how the internals are. I've got some new valve cover gaskets waiting for this reason.


Honestly I can live with the worn mounts, do the radiator and tstat work with the engine in place, and I am going to try some ATP AT 205 on the next oil change to see if it helps the oil leaks.

The rest of the truck is fine and I'd rather get another 3-4 years out of it if I can (in that time I can save up for the down payment on my dream car).

Am I going overboard if I plan on lifting the engine out? I've never done this level of work before.

 

[ag_ghost]

I assume you have a Ford factory service manual set (not a Chilton/Haynes knockoff). Do most of the needed repairs specify pulling the motor?
Kevin

 

[SZR48207]

Originally Posted By: ag_ghost
I assume you have a Ford factory service manual set (not a Chilton/Haynes knockoff). Do most of the needed repairs specify pulling the motor?
Kevin


No FSM, but plenty of googling for this particular model truck says that pulling the engine IS REQUIRED for:

Oil pan
Engine mounts (unless you want to remove the exhaust manifolds -- no thanks)


The IMRC bushings can be changed by removing the upper intake manifold, which I have done before as part of an isolator bolt leak fix, but we're talking about 5-6 hours of work to get this done.

 

[DSparks]

Ive had 7 of those trucks with the 4.2 v6s and currently have 3 for my business..good engines imho...if it was me....id put the valve cover gaskets on it and I bet most of your oil leaks/mess will be gone...the mounts...if they arent physically broke in 2 pieces leave them alone..getting the exhaust manifolds off without snapping a bolt off in the head is a [censored]...Ive never had any mount issues with any of ours...all 2001-2006 trucks...bazzillion miles...

 

[GreeCguy]

Pulling an engine is a major job. While you can still do it under an oak tree in the back yard, (or front yard if your neighbors don't mind - in fact, if you have really cool neighbors, they might even come over to help, especially if beer is involved).

However, to maintain a certain degree of sanity, a good work area is a definite plus. Good tools are also a major plus. You'll need a good lift or hoist, plenty of wrenches and a lot of patience. Since this is your first time at the dance, give yourself at least a solid week before your truck is back on the road.

If you're going to go this far to fix a few things, you might as well fill your dance card with other little jobs to tackle while you're at it. If it were me, I would change EVERYTHING while I had the motor out - alternator, starter, water pump, spark plugs, and anything else that comes to mind. It would be a real bugger to pull the motor, fix the leak and motor mounts, bolt it all back together only to have your starter go south a week later when you could have swapped it so easily when it was on the lift.

Secondly, are you planning on pulling the motor and transmission together or are you going to slide around the backside of the motor and try to separate them in the engine bay? From my experience, it's so much easier to pull both units together. Granted, you're lifting more weight and have more to wrestle around, but you're rewarded later by not having to line things up in a cramped engine bay while standing on your head wondering why in the name of all things holy you decided to do this project to begin with, (however, beer does help in times like these).

If you do decide to pull both motor and transmission together, it's a great time to change transmission fluid and filter and give the ole transmission a general outside cleaning to make it look bright and new. If you're feeling really bold, you could even swap out the front and rear main seals on your transmission just for the heck of it since you already have it out and it can be easily serviced.

Remove the radiator before you pull the motor and transmission. Trust me on this one. Nothing is more depressing than a swinging motor heading straight for the rad. The kiss of death always results in a trip to your local parts store for a new radiator, served of course with a side dish of regret.

One of the major advantages today is the ease of taking pictures. I assume you have one of those new fangled phones that take pictures. Take pictures. Take lots of pictures. Take pictures from every angle of every single thing under the hood. Take pictures in process and pictures of when the motor is finally out and on the ground, (or in the tree, depending on where you plan on servicing the motor and transmission). That way, when you're putting everything back together, you have a ready reference guide to how it all lives and moves and has it's being.

Safety is VERY important. Don't do anything crazy or daring. NEVER EVER put your finger where you wouldn't put your peter, (my Dad used to say that).

Finally, if you do decide to do this, start saving cans now. Soup cans and coffee cans make great containers for nuts, bolts, screws, etc.

Good luck, be safe and keep us posted on this project.

 

[A_Harman]

Originally Posted By: GreeCguy
Secondly, are you planning on pulling the motor and transmission together or are you going to slide around the backside of the motor and try to separate them in the engine bay? From my experience, it's so much easier to pull both units together. Granted, you're lifting more weight and have more to wrestle around, but you're rewarded later by not having to line things up in a cramped engine bay while standing on your head wondering why in the name of all things holy you decided to do this project to begin with, (however, beer does help in times like these).



All good advice in GreeCGuy's original note, but I was nodding emphatically when I read this paragraph. I've been there a few times, and always end up cussing the job.

And another suggestion:

Take off the whole front clip of the truck to improve access. Leaning over the fenders to wrench on the engine forces you to hyperextend your knees for hours during the day. Not good.

 

[The_Eric]

Go for it! They're easy to pull.

Not everyone understands the thinking (some call it lunacy) behind this course of action, but it do.

There is plenty of room to work. Take your time and it'll be out before you know it.

 

[Doog]

Originally Posted By: DSparks
Ive had 7 of those trucks with the 4.2 v6s and currently have 3 for my business..good engines imho...if it was me....id put the valve cover gaskets on it and I bet most of your oil leaks/mess will be gone...the mounts...if they arent physically broke in 2 pieces leave them alone..getting the exhaust manifolds off without snapping a bolt off in the head is a [censored]...Ive never had any mount issues with any of ours...all 2001-2006 trucks...bazzillion miles...


Do this ^^^^

 

[drolds]

GreeCguy gave excellent advice. I just want to add that should you do the pull, replace the timing chain. One problem area to look at carefully is the fragile plate between the water-pump and the timing cover. These have been known to crack and be the source of a coolant leak on these particular engines. If yours is OK, be sure to reassemble carefully & use a QUALITY torque wrench.
If you are going to replace the head-gaskets & head-bolts, do a compression check before turning the first bolt. If the a valve-job would be needed, do it while the heads are off. If compression is quite good, you may be able to skip any head work.

Dr. Olds

 

[meep]

it's a neat activity if you have the time for it. 'Cree' nailed it.

1. when it's hanging from a chain, you will be amazed that you've done it, and it will seem much easier than you thought it would be.

2. you will get stuck a few times. can't reach the one bolt remaining. or you can reach it but can't get any power to it. during which, you will feel like you'll never, ever get there. that's why many wrenches, joints, angles, extensions, different sockets, help!

3. something will break. a stripped bolt. a connector you didn't see.

4. A/C requires thought. can you hang the compressor to the side? can you drop the condensor to the bumper out of the way, or do you need to remove/evacuate it and have it refilled after?

5. i'm not as invincible (the illusion of youth) as I used to be. every time you crawl under that thing, are you safe?

6. do NOT trust the chain hook provided by the factory on top of the motor. they bend. things shift. ALWAYS run a hardened bolt through the chain and bolt it into something solid. Extra safety chain never hurts.

7. if you separate them at the bellhousing and drop the trans, the trans jack has a chain sling to go over the transmission and secure it to the platform of the jack. USE. IT.

8. add to the seals. rear main. consider the front as well. inspect harmonic balancer to make sure the rubber in it is still good.

Note-- this may be a lot of work for a vehicle you're only looking at keeping another 4 years.

Note2-- finding a buddy who has done this before, or who is interested in helping, can be very, very helpful.

Above all, please be safe!

 

[JamesBond]

I wouldn't pull the engine for preventative maintenance when nothing is actually wrong.

 

[cptbarkey]

as long as you have another daily driver while the truck is having downtime, what is there to lose? budget at least $200-300 in parts, and enjoy if you enjoy projects like this do it! I personally love it as a hobby, but you have to have dedication and dont give up, over a long period of time.

 

[hattaresguy]

I'd just drive it oil is cheap. I wouldn't put that much time and effort into yanking an engine unless I was planning to keep the truck for years and years. If that was the case I'd yank it and replace it with a reman.

Clean it up and check for oil leaks, as said above it might be something simple like the valve covers.

 

[bdcardinal]

Ford pulling an engine and dealing with A/C, my experience is to have the system evacuated first. I find it much easier to do that and then not have to worry about having to disconnect lines and pulling the condenser to make access easier. Also they sell o-ring kits in the aftermarket for cheap, you want to replace all of those even if they look ok.

Also, this is the perfect time to powerwash the empty engine bay.

 

[The_Eric]

A/C can stay connected on this one.

 

[Schmoe]

If I'm not mistaken, I know on my supercrew, don't you have to lift the whole body off the frame to get to the engine? I know that's what they do if you have to have new heads put on from the dreaded blowing spark plug 5.4. But, this is a 6 cylinder. May have more room.

 

[andyd]

Fords aren't made to be repaired. I came to this conclusion replacing the clutch and brakes on the Rat.

 

[hattaresguy]

Most American cars are not, my Chevy is no different.

The big stupid trend now with pickup trucks is to shove the engine up under the cab for better handling I guess? This makes getting to the back a challenge.

 

[The_Eric]

If this is a 2wd, it shouldn't be too hard to do.

 

[Now]

Reddy45, For this forum, I'm new. By no means am I a pro at pulling and rebuilding engines. I've rebuilt 7-8 engines with experienced help close by. Replaced the head on an 86 22R with my wife to help me. Small hands are a blessing at times. Honestly, no one touches my vehicles except me unless it's warranty. I am getting to the age where I would like to hire a local mech. to do this dirty work.

Your V-6 engine is a good unit. We have a f-150 v-6 at work with 288k and it started it's life as a route truck. Truck was operated for 2 years with a vacuum leak and that didn't kill the valves.

To help those with more experience understand where you stand in this task, tell us how many times you've done this.

Start this project by removing the exhaust pipes at the manifolds. Very hot manifolds I might add.

Masking tape is your friend.

No matter what, do a compression test first. Replace that oil pump with a stock unit. High volume pumps are not needed for a tight engine.

If you pull the transmission with the engine drain the T-fluid first because it will do that for you on its on. Those plastic yoke adpt. do come in handy. LOL Been there done that

If this is your first rodeo good luck.