Lifting car on center jack point, or pinch weld?

[shDK]

Hi all.

This weekend I will be changing to summer tyres on the family corolla cross.

My last car where too low to actually get my trolley jack under the subframe. And therefore I used the pinch welds. But after 8 years of changing tires. The pinch welds was getting bend.

On the corolla cross it is no problem at all to reach the center jack point on the subframe.

But what are you guys experience.

Can the center jackpoint on the subframe actually take lifting the car 2 times a year, year after year. Without damaging the subframe? And can I be sure it won't bend or warp the subframe from the weight of the car?

Thanks

 

[paulo57509]

If you have a Toyota service manual, it should show recommended lifting points. I prefer to use the recommended center lifting points.

I have the same issue with the Camaro. For this, I lift under the lower a-arm and then lower the car onto a double stack of 1x6 pine boards placed under the tire. This gives me enough clearance to then lift under the center cross member.

 

[dumkid]

you can lift under the subframe, assuming it's thick enough. some subframes don't hold the engine and are weaker than the subframes that hold the engine (motor mounts bolt to subframe vs bolting to unibody frame rails) also i wouldn't jack on anything that isn't tube, boxed, or less 1/8 inch, unless it's an approved jack point. i like to jack on the pinch rails, subframe where it mounts to the car, and subframe right by the lower control arms (like directly on the LCA bushing housing) i haven't damaged anything yet

 

[shDK]

you can lift under the subframe, assuming it's thick enough. some subframes don't hold the engine and are weaker than the subframes that hold the engine (motor mounts bolt to subframe vs bolting to unibody frame rails) also i wouldn't jack on anything that isn't tube, boxed, or less 1/8 inch, unless it's an approved jack point. i like to jack on the pinch rails, subframe where it mounts to the car, and subframe right by the lower control arms (like directly on the LCA bushing housing) i haven't damaged anything yet

I haven't noticed if the engine is mounted on the subframe. But it does have a lifting point marked in the users manual.

 

[hrv]

you can lift under the subframe, assuming it's thick enough. some subframes don't hold the engine and are weaker than the subframes that hold the engine (motor mounts bolt to subframe vs bolting to unibody frame rails) also i wouldn't jack on anything that isn't tube, boxed, or less 1/8 inch, unless it's an approved jack point. i like to jack on the pinch rails, subframe where it mounts to the car, and subframe right by the lower control arms (like directly on the LCA bushing housing) i haven't damaged anything yet

dont assume anything....Go with what Toyota has as lift points....

 

[dumkid]

I haven't noticed if the engine is mounted on the subframe. But it does have a lifting point marked in the users manual.

if it's in the manual, then it can't hurt to use it.

 

[Donald]

The factory jack for my Subaru fits at the pinch weld but lifting is actually done on either side of the pinch weld not the actual pinch weld. The pinch weld just holds the jack in place.

Look at how the factory jack actually fits at the pinch weld.

But a jacking point is an excellent place to lift the vehicle.

 

[CleanSump]

I bought an aluminum "racing" jack that sits low enough to get under most low sitting cars like Civics, Jettas, and BMWs.
Before that I'd drive up on short 6" x 2" boards to get enough height for the standard floor jack. That gains you about 1.5"
Your owners manual shows jacking points.

Edit: i also bought a rubber pad for the jack head that has a groove for pinchwelds.
Jack Pad (Amazon)

 

[Donald]

I bought an aluminum "racing" jack that sits low enough to get under most low sitting cars like Civics, Jettas, and BMWs.
Before that I'd drive up on short 6" x 2" boards to get enough height for the standard floor jack. That gains you about 1.5"
Your owners manual shows jacking points.

Edit: i also bought a rubber pad for the jack head that has a groove for pinchwelds.
Jack Pad (Amazon)

The problem I see with the jack pad at least for my Subaru is it's not the same dimensions as the factory jack and will put weight on the pinch weld. The factory jack puts no weight on the pinch weld. Only on either side of it.

 

[Snagglefoot]

One can always use pinch welll adapters, some as simple as a piece of 2x4 run over the table saw a few times.