Lifter Tick w. GC (?/!)

[ARMY_Guy]

Hello all. Happy Independence Day. I just did an oil change on the Jeep yesterday. I dumped 1 qt. of the Castrol Edge, and put in a qt. of MMO, drove 1000 miles and changed the oil and filter. After waiting 45 minutes to let every concievable drop come out, I put on a K&N filter & 6 qts. of German Castrol.

I have lifter tick. What gives? I thought the thinner oil would have easier flow and prevent it from happening - but its ticking. Engine's nice and hot, and yes its got more pep, but that tick is getting to me. Do tell.

-A
I6/4.0L 2002 Jeep Wrangler (X)
120,000 miles

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: ARMY_Guy
I thought the thinner oil would have easier flow

Thinner than what? GC is actually pretty thick for a 30-grade. Thicker than Edge at operating temp.

Is this your first time running K&N filter? I've seen people attributing lifter tick to a specific filter model before.

 

[HangerHarley]

There is some debate as to whether you need to go Thicker or Thinner to eliminate Lifter Tick. Particularly when it happens when Engine is Hot, not Cold.

MMO made your engine Peppier, that too is a common report. Thinner grades have also reported more "Pep" from an Engine. Some dont like Solvents in a motor, but MMO is an exception. So you removed one Quart and replaced with MMO. Changed Filter Only?

Why did you choose GC?

 

[RageOfFury]

Could be that the AMC 4.0L doesn't like GC and doesn't like the filter you used.

From what I've read on here and on various Jeep forums, Rotella 5W-40 is the best oil for the AMC 4.0L. You could give that a try and try another filter?

 

[ARMY_Guy]

Hey youz two. I chose GC because I bought it last fall when the sale was on. 1st time using it. K&N? Never had a problem before. I usually run Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck and a Mobil 1 or K&N filter, this last time I finaly ran a Pure One and 6 qts. of Edge.

That thin vs. thick saga will never end. Can't wait till someone comes up with a 0w50, if they already haven't. God bless America. And not the Tea Party! Thanks for the answers.

-A

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: ARMY_Guy
Can't wait till someone comes up with a 0w50, if they already haven't.

Eneos. They've had that grade for a while now.

Not sure that you really need 0w-XX oil where you are. I agree with Rotella 5w-40 suggestion.

First thing I'd do though is try a different filter with the current oil as that's probably a less pricey maneuver.

 

[aquariuscsm]

I don`t know about GC,but Syntec 10W30 gave my 3000GT the worst lifter tick imaginable. Replaced with conventional 10w30 and the ticking was gone,never to return again. It would always do it on a cold start,go away when warm,and then tick again on a "hot" start after the engine had sat for a few minutes and then started again.

 

[Warstud]

Is it ticking at startup or at operating temp?

 

[jtaylor]

you want 0w50, you get 0w50

http://www.jayracing.com/images/Eneos 008.jpg

 

[1345]

I just changed the oil in my 4.0 yesterday. I had Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w30 oil and a Mobil 1-301 filter.. This time I used maxlife 10w30 synthetic blend oil and a purolator PureOne PL30001 filter. It is now quiet and smooth running all the time.

 

[Mustang Man]

Give Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w30 a try. It is not as thick at GC and sells for less at Wal-Mart ($21 for a 5 qt. jug).

 

[Craig in Canada]

Originally Posted By: ARMY_Guy

I have lifter tick. What gives? I thought the thinner oil would have easier flow and prevent it from happening - but its ticking. Engine's nice and hot, and yes its got more pep, but that tick is getting to me. Do tell.

-A
I6/4.0L 2002 Jeep Wrangler (X)
120,000 miles


GC is thicker than US Edge (from everything I've read about US Edge). You can't go by the grade (ie. 5W30 vs. 0W30) you have to go by the PDS.

I can't use US Edge in my BMW because it isn't thick enough (but GC is).

From the little bit written here, it looks like your Jeep doesn't like thick.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

OP:
OW, 5W, 10W have nothing to do with thick or thin above freezing - Just winter gell point - all -25C and colder. GC never worked in any engine I tried it in so dont feel bad. Also I ABSOLUTELY dont understand ANY need for the MMO after running EDGE.

 

[fdcg27]

ARCO,
You have written of bad experiences with GC in the past.
I, OTOH, have really liked it in everything.
It seemed fine in the van when I used it in place of the Mobil 1 0w30 I usually used in it when it was still young, both Accords have done two runs with it, and were smooth and quiet, while the Subaru seems very happy with it as well.
I may on some mad day decide to try it in the BMW, although it is thinner than what BMW recommended for the engine when it was new, it does meet more current BMW specs, and does have a high enough HT/HS.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

fdccg27, You def have tried it more than I. It's good to know what apps it works in. The worst app for me was in a 2005 Suzuki Aerio 2.3L with about 35K on it on a winter oci and I was running the factory "Austrian" suzuki filter. I tried the Gold GC but still "made in germany". fdcg27, Were any of your OCI with the legendary green GC?

 

[fdcg27]

Yes.
I used it in the van long enough ago that it must have been green.
I think I recall wondering why the oil I put in it looked vaguely like thick coolant, but that was probably ten years ago.
I used it in the van merely as an alternative to Mobil 1 0W-30, not really realizing at the time that I was using a high spec Euro oil.
I used it in the Accords (gold) knowing what it was from having lurked here.
I have been using it in the Sube since I am of the opinion that the flat four benefits from a heavier oil than a starburst 5w30.
If it didn't, why would Subaru bother to provide a temp/visc chart allowing all sorts of heavier grades than the "prefered" 5w30 starburst, and why would Subaru then go on to permit the use of SL 20W-50 or straight thirty or straight forty?
Heck, the 15w40 you're using meets the engine warranty requirements.
I just bought five quarts of GC with Fram Toughgaurd (a good Fram) from AZ on an oil change special. I'll buy another five with filter, and then send off for the Castrol "get 50% off the second five quarts" deal. Backing out the real value of the filter (say $3.00), I'll end up with ten quarts of GC for ~$3.75/quart. Pretty good for an oil that meets specs most other grades of Syntec, or any number of other popularly available syns, can't.

 

[mechtech2]

The MMO may have cleaned something out in the valvetrain and now there is no varnish there to stop internal leaking of oil. There may be a bit more clearance in some part, now that it is clean.
Knowing exactly what is making the noise is critical to go further.