Lexus 02 Sensor

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CharBaby

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01 RX-300 throwing a code P1150. Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circut Range/Performance Malfunction Bank 2 Sensor 1. I want to make sure that the sensor is the real issue. This is the only code # showing. The vehicle runs great with no glitches/burps, nothing! MPG is great at 20 mpg city and 24 highway(better then the EPA figures of 18city 22hgwy). I also want to make sure that Bank 2 is the one closest to me when I open the hood of the vehcile. Any input from BITOGers will helpful.

Thank much,

CB
 
Engine is the 1MZ-FE if I read correctly, and that sensor should be right in front of you as you open the hood.
Yeah, I'd clear the code and keep checking for a while before replacing it.
 
Apparently these a/f sensors tend to fail around 100k miles. If your RX has near 100k miles, the sensor is probably bad. The best price I found was from Amazon, around $130 for a Denso sensor, the brand I much prefer. Look up the Denso part number on the Denso website and then search that part number on the Amazon site. The things were rather tight in the manifold fitting, so I put the sensor's connector and wire through the hole on a long handle 22 mm box end and put the wrench on the sensor.
 
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
I also want to make sure that Bank 2 is the one closest to me when I open the hood of the vehcile.


Unplug that sensor and see if the new code that pops up is for Bank 2 or Bank 1. Then you'll know for sure.
 
An O2 sensor code can be thrown for a bad sensor, or a rich/lean condition, which causes the sensor to read high/low [injector, vacuum leaks, etc].
In your case, I would switch sensors from bank 1 to 2 and see if the code switches to that side. That would identify it as a sensor or another problem.
 
Originally Posted By: ChiTDI
Engine is the 1MZ-FE if I read correctly, and that sensor should be right in front of you as you open the hood.
Yeah, I'd clear the code and keep checking for a while before replacing it.


Yes, it is the 1MZ-FE(3.0 V6) engine. I replaced the sensor this afternoon. I'll keep an eye on things over the next week to see if the CEL returns.
 
Originally Posted By: ChiTDI
Out of cuiosity - Was there great resistance (rust) to removal?
Did you spray the threads or warm the engine?


No, I didn't warm the engine and there was little resistance...I just used a large Cresent Wrench to romove the sensor although after several turns, I had to spray the threads that were exposed(w/PBB) and work the sensor back & forth before starting the removal process again due to, I think I was getting into a dead spot. Little room to work in between the exhaust manifold and the radiator shroud(or what ever it was I was bumping up against). So far so good considering I didn't reset the code, Im just letting things go their own way. If the CEL doesn't come back on, Im good to go!
 
OOPS! Spoke too soon. The CEL came back on today the Sept. 14th. I clear the code and if it comes back on I'll have AZ read the code again to see if it's the same. Purchaced the sensor on 8-29 and installed it on 8-30 but did not clear the code cause the CEL was off at the time. Now on today it's back on so I pulled the fuse and it's off for now.
 
I pulled the ECU-B fuse, the only fuse that turns off the CEL. I only pulled it out for about 20-30 seconds. Is that long enough?
 
I don't think that I can return a $155.00 sensor to Advance Auto Parts just because Bosch A/F sensors don't work on Lexus'. I need to show reason! I'll have it coded again at Auto Zone and make sure that it not showing a different code#. Then I'll have to read continuity somehow and compare the readings to a known source.
 
Don't throw any more money at this thing before you get the car on some real diagnostic equipment.You maybe treating a symptom and not the cause,the only way to find out is on a real scan tool not just a code reader.

Ditto on the Bosch sensors in Toyota products.We had one that kept throwing codes with a brand new Bosch installed by the customer,switching to Denso (OEM manufacturer $90 at Rock Auto)cured it,we did confirm the sensor was the issue before buying another sensor.
 
This must be the fancy A/F sensor which is significantly expensive than vanilla O2 sensor. In any case, there are enough warnings about using Bosch anything on Japanese vehicles. Beg and plead to AAP and get the part swapped with OEM Denso/NGK part. This is assuming your original sensor was bad.

You really need a good scanner to look at the parameters of the engine or at least the O2 output.

How much are you willing to spend on a decent scanner?

- Vikas
 
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I could understand if I were getting many codes but, Im only getting P1150 which is that sensor, which is the origanal from the factory when new in 2001. The sensor is nothing special just expensive. Most places want $313.00-$325.00 for a OEM/Denso and that is just the part. Only after the fact did I find a Denso on Amazon for $150.00 + shipping.

Engine runs great, smooth, silent idle with good power and excellent MPG, better than the EPA rating. Getting 20 mpg city almost every tank and 24 highway. Only estimated at 18 & 22.

There is nothing else to say about the engine but awsome! It's just blowing a code! It was fine for 2 weeks after I installed it and prior, it was going off/on every couple of days.
 
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