Leaf Spring Questions- Lots of Questions

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I heard clunks from the rear axle and found the middle leaf on the passenger side broken. I have occasionally overloaded the truck - twenty sheets of drywall, 3/4 yard of gravel etc. I tied up the middle leaf back in place and that eliminated the clunking. I plan on replacing the complete 3 leaf assembly, not just the middle leaf. Having never dealt with leaf springs before, I have lots of questions.

RockAuto has one spring assembly for $246Cdn + $100 shipping. Dayton brand, likely American made
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2596132&cc=1432405&jsn=523
However Beattie Spring is considerably cheaper, at $85 US. Likely US made, will have to confirm.
https://beattiespring.com/collectio...eaf-spring-3-leaf?variant=12589779615853

The above springs are SRI 22-1221 and are listed for my truck at the two sites but is not the exact one my truck takes. My truck is supposed to have 22-1503 and I can get this one from my GM dealer for $523 Cdn. The differences between the two springs are not much and I can live with the small difference because of the large difference in price.

I can the Dorman version of the exact spring locally, 929-115.It is more expensive at about $400 Cdn. Dorman peddles a lot of Chinese made stuff, so I have ruled Dorman out. As an aside I read scrap yards that buy construction equipment will pay more for Caterpillar equipment because the steel is of high quality.

I have not checked with local spring shops to see what they can supply, I will do so before buying the springs.

Should I order both sides (two sets of springs) now, if I buy from a US supplier, to save on shipping costs? I understand if I replace just one side the rear end will not sit even. Also the middle leaf is a known weak item on GM 1/2 tons, so the driver side middle leaf will likely break some time in the near future if not replaced. I will be replacing the U bolts because I understand they are one time use only. GM wants the U bolts replaced when the springs are replaced.

I checked the fasteners (shackle bolt at the rear, hanger bolt at the front, U bolts at the axle and none are seized - thanks, Krown!), so I am not anticipating any difficulty replacing the spring. Anything to watch out for?

GM SI calls for dropping the fuel tank to replace the driver side spring. Seems to me the only reason is that the hanger bolt at the front of the spring is inserted from the inside and the nut is on the outside, so the fuel tank is in the way of withdrawing the bolt far enough to take the spring end off. I plan on leaving the tank in place and cutting the bolt off and inserting the replacement bolt form the outside, and using red loctite on the nut. Any issue with not doing it GM's way?

I will tighten the spring end bolts with the spring in its normal compressed state.

100_1179.jpg
 
$25 at local auto wreckers, dont over think it. Have fun doing the R&R they can be a devil at times. Or, take yours to the local suspension shop and they can replace just the broken spring. I've done that many times
 
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I know taking the truck to a spring shop will save me time and hassle. But the truck has never been back to the dealer since I drove it off their lot thirteen years ago. No one else has ever worked on my truck (except for an insurance collision repair when I was bumped from behind by a texter) and I would like to maintain my record. Something I take great pride in.
 
Get a pair from the junkyard much lower cost. You can visually tell if they are in decent shape or not most of the time. If not get another pair just much cheaper.
 
The springs are failure prone on the GM 1/2 tons ( in addition to fuel pumps, brake lines, front wheel bearings on 2wd and instruments panel gauges), so junkyard springs are going to be iffy. That is why I am leaning towards quality aftermarket springs.
 
I stuck one spring on my F150 when cornered by a state inspection. 23 years old at the time. Mail ordered it from some weird website I never heard of, but was cheaper than ebay, amazon, rock, etc. $80 IIRC.

Truck sits level and doesn't handle funny.

I wire brushed the threads of the u-bolts before starting and they came apart in one piece. I was shocked.

Your spring bolts are in shear stress and don't know their heads from their tails so your plan sounds good to me.
 
Originally Posted by George7941
I know taking the truck to a spring shop will save me time and hassle. But the truck has never been back to the dealer since I drove it off their lot thirteen years ago. No one else has ever worked on my truck (except for an insurance collision repair when I was bumped from behind by a texter) and I would like to maintain my record. Something I take great pride in.

Good man! I love you!!!

Scott
 
Originally Posted by DuckRyder
https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/findmyvehicle/

I would replace both of them and use the correct one.

I came across EatonDetroitSprings on Youtube and was impressed by the owner. Very knowledgeable on springs. Also like the fact that it is a multi generation family run business.

i am sure they provide high quality springs and wanted to buy from them. Called them and spoke to the daughter of the owner. That is when I realised that they mainly cater to classic/custom cars and not to daily driver cars. They did not stock springs for my truck and would have to fabricate them. I came across Beattie Springs and they looked like a quality business too, so I thought I would buy from them if I do not get them locally.
 
Maybe I didn't quite read your whole post correctly.

Do you indeed need new springs?
Can you get away with just slapping in some "Spring Helpers"?
You know, those ones that you add to the length of your current springs and clamp'em on?
Are you going to keep the truck for any further length of time?

I've done this a few times and have even transferred the helper springs to another vehicle.

*You raise the backend of the truck and let the axle hand free
*Then you slap on the spring helpers from beneath the bottom leaf and tighten up with the U-clamps
*Set the rear axle down

I think in today's dollars, it'd be about $60. This may only buy you time but, you can also leave them in forever, which is what I did. They come in different spring load rates.
 
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Originally Posted by Char Baby
Maybe I didn't quite read your whole post correctly.

Do you indeed need new springs?
Can you get away with just slapping in some "Spring Helpers"?
You know, those ones that you add to the length of your current springs and clamp'em on?
Are you going to keep the truck for any further length of time?

I've done this a few times and have even transferred the helper springs to another vehicle.

*You raise the backend of the truck and let the axle hand free
*Then you slap on the spring helpers from beneath the bottom leaf and tighten up with the U-clamps
*Set the rear axle down

I think in today's dollars, it'd be about $60. This may only buy you time but, you can also leave them in forever, which is what I did. They come in different spring load rates.


He has a broken leaf, not just weak ones. Why would you want to put a bandaid on it with helpers?
 
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Originally Posted by George7941
The springs are failure prone on the GM 1/2 tons ( in addition to fuel pumps, brake lines, front wheel bearings on 2wd and instruments panel gauges), so junkyard springs are going to be iffy. That is why I am leaning towards quality aftermarket springs.


If they are prone to failure, then half the ones at the wrecker will have already been replaced. If you buy new, you need to replace both, ($500+) and you will now double your labour. If you buy used you can just do one, as long as the truck sits level. A spring is not a replacement item that is going to add any value to the truck, or improve performance like replacing a worn out camshaft.

Don't over think this, I managed a fleet of delivery Vans back in the day, and a broken rear leaf spring is what I called Tuesday.
 
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If you don't mind the drive to Niagara Falls NY, Falls Auto Spring is a great shop for this type of thing.
 
I have drawn a sketch of the spring setup on my truck. As you can see the broken leaf causes a stress point on the main leaf and if the main leaf breaks I am in trouble because the main leaf locates the axle. So I need to fix this right away.

I have decided to just replace the broken leaf and will use new U bolts when I button everything back up. I am leaning towards getting this leaf
https://beattiespring.com/collectio...2-leaf-middle-leaf?variant=6186265739296

leaf spring.jpg
 
Well, you'll have to drive to get it, msg says no international shipping. And if they did the cost would be prohibitive. Stop looking online, and go down to your local spring/suspension shop. You'll have your part the same day, and they can even make one up if needed.
 
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They have an ebay site where they ship internationally
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Chevy-Silverado-1500-GMC-Sierra-1500-Replacement-Clip-Leaf-2-Leaf-Middle-Leaf/221790627194?hash=item33a3c0657a:g:LtQAAOSwjXRXYFkY

I will check locally and as long as it is not made offshore it should do fine.
 
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