Krown Rust or RustCheck?

[Kestas]

I've been rustproofing cars for over 20 years. I made a hobby out of it. I even picked the brains of corrosion engineers when I was working at Chrysler. Washing alone will not keep a car from rusting. It just helps by removing the dirt that can cause poultice corrosion.

Even a rustproofed car can rust out, unless you can guarantee 100% coverage and that it won't wash off.

I've been rustproofing my cars for over 20 years with a compound called Texaco Rustproofing Compound. I converted my paint sprayer to spray rustproofing compound. The compound needs to be reapplied every few years, especially in the high wash areas. But I've never had rust on the protected parts. The only rust I've had is from the outside in (rather than inside out) or in the A- or B-pillars, which are closed sections.

The key is that the rustproofing must be reapplied every few years. That's why many of you report seeing cars with "Rust Check" or "Rusty Jones" (Chicago) stickers that look like swiss cheese. People think that once a car is rustproofed it is good for life. How many of you think the average owner is going to pay (again) to have a 5-year-old car rustproofed? **not many** I know of no rustproofing that is good for the life of the vehicle.

I've had mechanics praise my work during buyer inspection. Nothing like rustproofing a car yourself for a job done well.

 

[Oldswagon]

quote:

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Originally posted by Dr. T:
I admit cars have gone a long way since `70's with respect to corrosion, but everything rusts. However, twice a year...that may be overkill unless it was a Rolls or Bentley or something....

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Oh, I realize that as well, which is why I have my cars done only once a year. I get mine done every year at the end of October, and I still have Krown seeping from the car from the year previous.

My father has had some bad experiences with cars rusting out on him over the years, which is why he has been so paranoid with his Chevelle. He used to drive a '65 Impala coupe he tried to look after, but rusted out even with frequent washings and the old '60's and 70's rust proofing technolgies. Even though it might be excessive having his car Krowned twice a year (even the Krown guys tell him that), it keeps him happy and his old Chevelle is still rust free.

 

[speedy341]

I think Dr. T is correct.

"Oiling" a car's underbody for rust prevention is different than the rubberized/tar based rustproofing we in the US are accustomed to.

When I bought my new truck I spent some time researching rustproofing. It's my understanding that the rubberized rust proofings can do more harm than good because as they harden and chip, water can get under them causing MORE damage. Oiling is a better alternative because it just (eventually) wears off. Unfortunately the tree huggers in the US put a stop to this because it's bad for the enviroment.

I decided to go with the wash occasionally option for rust prevention, but if it was available, I'd go with the oiling.

 

[Ferb]

Seeing as i'm in California (southern at that), i don't have to worry about salt spray and the like.

However, i'd like to spray some sort of sealant on my wheel wells and the underside of the front clip. I see some scaly surface rust that i'd like to avoid progressing.

Any product recommendations?

ferb!

 

[Kestas]

How about roofing tar?

 

[Baveux]

Don't know if its still true but Krown was the only rustproofing product recommended by tha APA here in Canada

 

[hk33ka1]

Krown is a non toxic product so the only real problem with the dripping is the mess. I can also attest to Amsoil HDMP staying on the diff covers and holding off rust. The recomendation by most oilers in Canada like Krown is spray once a year. As far as factory rustproofing goes, I still see a lot of late model cars with rust damage (underneath/inside and outer through paint). These people likely do not wash regularily either but there problem would be much less severe with a quality oil product applied such as Krown or Rust Check (and 40-50 washs a year). I agree with most of what Kestas had to say. Even a good product can be washed away in certain undercarriage spots. I do not care for the rubberized undercoats for the fact that if they are breached by moisture/salt it will creep under the layer causing corrosion. With quality oil or grease coatings as long as the coating stays on this will not occur.

Also for those who have used these products years ago many like Krown have updated or changed their products. The yellow T-40 that Krown has sprayed cars with the last few years is different than the old pink T-32 they used to use. Both are still available but only the T-40 is sold in barrels for spray shops to use.

[ October 07, 2004, 12:11 PM: Message edited by: hk33ka1 ]

 

[Dr. T]

So the question becomes, what's the best time to apply Krown....spring, summer, fall or winter??? Or does it even matter?

 

[BlazerLT]

quote:

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Originally posted by Dr. T:
So the question becomes, what's the best time to apply Krown....spring, summer, fall or winter??? Or does it even matter?

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Excellent question and most people think that fall is when you spray your vehicle with oil.

They are wrong.

For proper protection, you need to spray your vehicle in the spring before the heat and moisture of summer comes and causes rust.

No corrosion really happens in the dead of winter, it is in the spring and summer that the damage and rust happens seeing water and heat are catalysts for oxidation.

Cliff's Notes: Spray in the spring for best protection.

 

[Kestas]

My opinion is to apply rustproofing after any long dry spell - the hotter the better.

 

[Dr. T]

I might have to re-think the spring/summer thing then. To date, I've only done it during long, cold, dry spells...usually first week in Dec.. My thinking is to minimize drip/wash-off of the product.

 

[srivett]

Washing a car won't help. Just look at a Ford Explorer. They all rust out in the rear rocker panel area referred to as the "Dog leg". You'll also see a lot of Hondas rusted out in the back of the car just above the bumper. US cars actually have their bumpers rust out. This is because the salty sand gets piled up in these areas and can't be washed out by a machine (car wash). You need to wash it out by hand and saturate the area with oil.

Steve

 

[modvp]

In 1993, I started using Krown because it was a little cheaper than Rust Check (in Halifax). In my opinion, they both work equally well at preventing rust. The only draw back is the mess that occurs during the first few days following application.

 

[Mickey_M]

quote:

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Kestas:
.... The key is that the rustproofing must be reapplied every few years. That's why many of you report seeing cars with "Rust Check" or "Rusty Jones" (Chicago) stickers that look like swiss cheese. People think that once a car is rustproofed it is good for life. How many of you think the average owner is going to pay (again) to have a 5-year-old car rustproofed? **not many** I know of no rustproofing that is good for the life of the vehicle. .....

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The exception is galvanizing.

In certain areas of the car a good galvanizing job will last nearly forever.

Examples would be inner panels above the salt line, the insides of pillars, and the like.

I've used a cold galvanizing for several years for that purpose.

I also use it as an "undercoat" for repairs to the sound-deadening (aka undercoating) applied to the undersides of many American cars.

I've also had some luck extending the life of oil spray by mixing it 50/50 with paraffin. I had to rig a double-boiler to keep it sprayable, but once it's on there the drippage is considerably less.

 

[Kestas]

Don't bet on it. Galvanize (zinc coating) is a sacrificial coating. It's intended purpose is to preferentially corrode while protecting the steel. Once the zinc is gone, the steel begins to corrode. Ask any roofer who's repaired galvanized flashing. Ask any owner of a Chrysler product made in 85, where the bodies were 100% galvanized on both surfaces.

Galvanize will only buy you some time. After the zinc is gone you're on your own.

 

[Mickey_M]

quote:

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Originally posted by Kestas:
Don't bet on it. Galvanize (zinc coating) is a sacrificial coating. It's intended purpose is to preferentially corrode while protecting the steel. Once the zinc is gone, the steel begins to corrode. .....

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Which is why I added a qualification of "above the salt line". Keep it wet (e.g., wet rotting leaves) and anything will eventually fail.

One advantage of the cold galvanizing, though, is that you can get it on pretty thick and renew it.

For example, the floor of the trunk under the mat can be 1/8" thick with zinc.

In the kind of things I work on, if you can't see it, you can do what you want.

 

[srivett]

Is 110CDN plus tax a fair price for Krown undercoating? I have a receipt from 1996 with this price and I also got the same quote last week! I've seen prices as low as 50 bucks but the "you get what you pay for" may apply so what's the best deal out there? I initially had concern about having the rust proofing done during the winter but the guy I was talking to said he was willing to wash my car and let it dry over night (inside) before coating it the next day.

Also, are there any secret spots to have a 1992 VW Golf drilled? I will say that there needs to be holes drilled to coat the area between the rear panels and the rear fenders. This is the only spot I've found through-rust in my car. I have found rust UNDER the plastic coating between the body and the engine mounts/jacking pucks.

Steve

 

[BlazerLT]

Go for it, just do it in the spring before the summer heat activates the salt and acts as a catalyst for corrosion.

Never rustproof in the fall, only the srping after you have washed the truck and salt off completely.

Best to go to one of those carwashes with the underbody high pressure spray.

 

[srivett]

I just got a Krown Rust Control done on my car and my brakes suck now! The must have tried putting the oil on the dust shields because when I got home the oil had gotten on my discs and was then thrown out of my rims all over the tires. Fantastic... Next year I'll be going somewhere that uses thick snot like rust proofing.

Steve

 

[BlazerLT]

quote:

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Originally posted by srivett:
I just got a Krown Rust Control done on my car and my brakes suck now! The must have tried putting the oil on the dust shields because when I got home the oil had gotten on my discs and was then thrown out of my rims all over the tires. Fantastic... Next year I'll be going somewhere that uses thick snot like rust proofing.

Steve

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Whoa whoa there.

You want the stuff to drip so it will creep into the little nooks and crannies all within your body.

They will be doing mine this week too and yes, the brakes will be weird for a couple miles, but it will burn off.

Using stuff that is thick as snot will only go where they spray it and that is it.

Just next time tell them to not spary the brake discs as heavily, but remember, when you do your next brake job you will be thanking them.

Did you get the Krown done on Regent st?