Debating whether Krown or RustCheck is better? Fellow Canadians what do you use for rustproofing? Time to spray the Maxima before the cold stuff arrives. Suggestions and comments welcomed.
Krown Rust or RustCheck?
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Patman
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My personal belief is that Krown is better. I've had a few cars done there and saw some tests that they had (written by other sources) which showed them being superior. Not only that, but I've seen more than a few rusted cars that have the Rust Check sticker on them! I have yet to see a Krown car with any rust on it. I don't need to worry though, most of my car is plastic.
You might want to look at rubber rustproofing, which I'm doing to my car right before winter hits.
Regards,
Oz
Regards,
Oz
Rubber rustproofing? You mean undercoating?
Patman, what other independent sources are you referring to that shows Krown is a more superior product? I know Rust Check is ok but not the best.quote:
Originally posted by Patman:
My personal belief is that Krown is better. I've had a few cars done there and saw some tests that they had (written by other sources) which showed them being superior. Not only that, but I've seen more than a few rusted cars that have the Rust Check sticker on them! I have yet to see a Krown car with any rust on it. I don't need to worry though, most of my car is plastic.
Patman
Staff member
I just meant that inside the Krown stores they show articles written by other people that show Krown's stuff to be superior (although it's possible Krown paid these people to write this)
I prefer not to get this stuff done as it makes such a mess. I feel that the money you spend on rustproofing is better spent on car washes in the winter. You can buy a lot of car washes in the winter with $100!
I prefer not to get this stuff done as it makes such a mess. I feel that the money you spend on rustproofing is better spent on car washes in the winter. You can buy a lot of car washes in the winter with $100!
Patman, you did in the past rustproof your cars with Krown? I still wash the under carriage of the car in the winter time even if I rustproof.
Patman
Staff member
Yes, I did my 84 Laser twice and my 88 Dodge Shadow three times. Then I did my 87 Mustang GT after I had it painted the first time. I just found it too messy for my liking, that oil stuff came out of the cracks and crevices for months after the application was done.
http://www.ultracar.com/rustproof/flyer.html
Let me know what you guys think.
Thanks,
Oz
[ August 22, 2002, 01:30 PM: Message edited by: BOBISTHEOILGUY ]
Let me know what you guys think.
Thanks,
Oz
[ August 22, 2002, 01:30 PM: Message edited by: BOBISTHEOILGUY ]
Oz, one time application sounds like a basic rubber undercoating. They did not list what they use to spray your undercarriage. I would definitely give them a call and ask them what they use as the liquid.
[ August 22, 2002, 01:31 PM: Message edited by: BOBISTHEOILGUY ]
I use Krown. It seems to be a better product than rust check, but I can't say for sure. In any case, Krown is a few bucks cheaper and the local guys do a better job.
I know rust proofing is messy, but it really does make a huge difference. My area is very salted in the winter, and the cars that have been oil sprayed last much longer without rusting.
I know rust proofing is messy, but it really does make a huge difference. My area is very salted in the winter, and the cars that have been oil sprayed last much longer without rusting.
Has anyone ever tried to DIY on some areas of the car with those aerosol cans of Rust Check or similar products?
I know treatments like Krown or Waxoyl can drip, but Rust Check now makes an interesting GEL product and I'm tempted to try it in some areas....
I know treatments like Krown or Waxoyl can drip, but Rust Check now makes an interesting GEL product and I'm tempted to try it in some areas....
I have used both Rust Check and Krown in aersol cans. It works alright for touch ups, but it doesn't treat an entire car very well. When you pay to have the rust proofing applied, they use long wands that extend far into body panels. Plus, their systems shoot a high pressure spray that seeps into joints and crevices far better than you can do with a spray can.
I personally think that the rust proofing that drips is better than the non-drip stuff. The stuff that drips seeps into cracks and crevices that non drip struff wouldn't. It's the small cracks and crevices where moisture builds and rust begins, but the rust proofing in these areas will prevent this from ever occuring.
I've tried both and will only go to Krown. Rust Check melted half of my rubber door seals due to high petroleum distillate quantities. The Krown seems to be somewhat cleaner in it's application. Drips for only about 2 days...no big deal really. Patman, I still wash the car weekly as this takes care of the excess and surface salt build-up...remember a car rusts from the inside out!
I can't believe how many of you guys are advocating 3rd party rust-proofing. First off, cars all come with factory rust-proofing to some degree, and 3rd party rust-proofing will always void your warranty. Sure, the warranty isn't a concern if you have an old car, but I still can't believe anybody thinking this is a good idea.
I can maybe understand an under-body coating if you live in a heavily salted area, but drilling holes in your car and filling it up with goo is a bad idea, and I've never known anybody to say otherwise. I've seen many rust treated cars that are badly rusted, and the first place to rust is always the holes that were drilled to apply the rust-proofing! Just wash the salt off your car regularly and repair any rust spots complmetely when they do show up.
Even if rust-proofing did work consistantly, I'd still be more comfortable keeping my car clean and fixing rust on a case-by-case basis than carring around 25 lbs. of goo in the body panels and hoping for it to magically make my car last forever.
In the US, Ziebart is the biggest rust-proofer, and so many people know it's a ripoff that they've had to turn into more of a detailing shop to stay in business.
I can maybe understand an under-body coating if you live in a heavily salted area, but drilling holes in your car and filling it up with goo is a bad idea, and I've never known anybody to say otherwise. I've seen many rust treated cars that are badly rusted, and the first place to rust is always the holes that were drilled to apply the rust-proofing! Just wash the salt off your car regularly and repair any rust spots complmetely when they do show up.
Even if rust-proofing did work consistantly, I'd still be more comfortable keeping my car clean and fixing rust on a case-by-case basis than carring around 25 lbs. of goo in the body panels and hoping for it to magically make my car last forever.
In the US, Ziebart is the biggest rust-proofer, and so many people know it's a ripoff that they've had to turn into more of a detailing shop to stay in business.
Maybe I was being a little harsh. This might be necessary in Canada, and I'm sure some of you guys know more than I do about it. It just seems a little crazy to me.
Patman
Staff member
I agree with you, I'd rather spend my money on car washes, as I think keeping the car clean in winter does a lot to keep rust away. If the salt is only on the car for one day before being washed away it doesn't have enough time to attack. Plus if your car is parked outside a lot too, the extreme cold prevents the salt from being able to do it's thing, since you need heat and moisture in order for rust to form.quote:
Originally posted by BadBatsuMaru:
Maybe I was being a little harsh. This might be necessary in Canada, and I'm sure some of you guys know more than I do about it. It just seems a little crazy to me.
I strongly disagree. Clearly, you have never seen a vehicle that has had a quality rust proofing system like Krown or Rust Check. This stuff works wonders in preventing rust.
For instance, my father still drives a 1976 Chevrolet Chevelle Coupe (a very rust prone vehicle). The car is driven year round but is always garaged (non-heated). He has the car rustproofed twice a year at Krown (yes, my father was always a little parnoid about rust). The car doesn't have a spec of rust on it anywhere. The chassis is mint, as is the rest of the underbody. He recently had the car repainted (it was still wearing the original paint) and the body men could not believe how immaculate the body and underbody was on the car.
Washing salt off the car only works to a point. Sure it does help, but unless you are lay under your car and detail the chassis, your missing a lot of rust prone areas. Don't forget that salty spray that dirties our cars on the highways during winter also runs inside the cars bodies (through door drains, cowl, rockers, etc). Rust proofing helps prevent corrosion inside body panels, which are highly prone to moisture and typically have much less protection. Cars almost always rot from the inside out, especially in structural areas. Rust on the outside of the body is typically cosmetic.
Rust proofing does work. Anyone who lives in salt crazy areas (like Ontario) and knows how to make a car last is well aware of this fact.
Correct..washing the car only takes care of surface salt/dirt etc...corrosion begins from the inside out. For 3 months of the year in ON, the car is "bathed" in a salt-water mix that goes inside every crevice, groove, channel, joint, etc. that you cannot get out by "washing" the car....unless you did about 10-20 washes. Even then, the next day you'll be driving thru the stuff again...
Secondly, salt does NOT cause rust. It simply accelerates the corrosion process along with moisture and oxygen. So what you need is a "moisture-repellant" INSIDE the car and it's body structure...not just on the surface. In fact, this is the least needed place because you can readily access it to treat the corrosion.
Now, we're not talking about adding 100lbs. of stuff into the door panels...they still need to breath, so you don't want to occlude them. Not to be confused with Ziebart that uses a heated and then solidifying 'wax' product, the Krown product is basically a thin oil with many "tackifiers" added so that it sticks and coats the inside metal surfaces and acts as a moisture barrier. Furthermore, it "creeps" continuously to cover all surfaces...even those that haven't had the product applyed directly (due to access). That's why you don't need to re-apply more than once/yr.. The secondary benefit is re-lubing all the other moving parts on the car...it runs like a new car after the treatment.
I admit cars have gone a long way since `70's with respect to corrosion, but everything rusts. However, twice a year...that may be overkill unless it was a Rolls or Bentley or something....
Now, from what I understand such products (dripping oil from undercoating) are "banned" by the EPA in the U.S.. Can someone vouch for this??? Maybe that's why they're now nonexistant?
Secondly, salt does NOT cause rust. It simply accelerates the corrosion process along with moisture and oxygen. So what you need is a "moisture-repellant" INSIDE the car and it's body structure...not just on the surface. In fact, this is the least needed place because you can readily access it to treat the corrosion.
Now, we're not talking about adding 100lbs. of stuff into the door panels...they still need to breath, so you don't want to occlude them. Not to be confused with Ziebart that uses a heated and then solidifying 'wax' product, the Krown product is basically a thin oil with many "tackifiers" added so that it sticks and coats the inside metal surfaces and acts as a moisture barrier. Furthermore, it "creeps" continuously to cover all surfaces...even those that haven't had the product applyed directly (due to access). That's why you don't need to re-apply more than once/yr.. The secondary benefit is re-lubing all the other moving parts on the car...it runs like a new car after the treatment.
I admit cars have gone a long way since `70's with respect to corrosion, but everything rusts. However, twice a year...that may be overkill unless it was a Rolls or Bentley or something....
Now, from what I understand such products (dripping oil from undercoating) are "banned" by the EPA in the U.S.. Can someone vouch for this??? Maybe that's why they're now nonexistant?
Amsoil makes this product call HDMP(Heavy Duty Metal Protector)
Though I'm not in one of the regions that gets much snow and ice. I did spray some on the rear differential of my truck cause I spotted some rust. This over 1 1/2 years ago and when I look at the rear diff, it still has the stuff on there.
HDMP is comes in an aerosol can that goes on wet then dries to a wax like coating. I use it exclusively on my Motorcycle chain.
It would be interesting to see how well it works up north where you get the salt from the roads.
Though I'm not in one of the regions that gets much snow and ice. I did spray some on the rear differential of my truck cause I spotted some rust. This over 1 1/2 years ago and when I look at the rear diff, it still has the stuff on there.
HDMP is comes in an aerosol can that goes on wet then dries to a wax like coating. I use it exclusively on my Motorcycle chain.
It would be interesting to see how well it works up north where you get the salt from the roads.
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