Kreen Update

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The sump usually takes 6 quarts of oil with an oversized filter to bring it up to the full level but after the cleaning it now holds 6 and 2/3 quarts to reach the fill line on the dip stick.

Maybe it cleaned out 2/3 quart of glop from the bottom of the oil pan.
 
I would say that if it was on the initial fill, after the change, when the oil went directly into the crankcase, I would agree.

However, this additional 2/3 of a quart of FS Strauss was added after the vehicle had been driven for about 10 miles and left to cool down for about 6 hours in 20 degree temps.

IMO...the additional 3/3 of a quart of new oil had filled the upper engine passageways and remained after the short run with new oil.

IMO....the oil and Kreen mix all dropped out with a Fury, even from the upper passageways, nooks and crannies when it was changed after a highway speed run at full operating temps. IMO...Kreen left no prisoners and everything dropped out into the pan when the drain plug was pulled.

IMO...if there had been any glop in the bottom of the pan during the Kreen run....it would have been liquefied during a long highway speed run with Kreen, with the engine running at full operating temperature.

Originally Posted By: Ken2
Quote:
The sump usually takes 6 quarts of oil with an oversized filter to bring it up to the full level but after the cleaning it now holds 6 and 2/3 quarts to reach the fill line on the dip stick.

Maybe it cleaned out 2/3 quart of glop from the bottom of the oil pan.
 
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This is one reason I've considered using Kreen, the PCV system cleansing effect. I have reservations about removing the breather chamber on my little Civic since it has to be done at oil change time, I'm sorta afraid it might be caked internally somewhat with the way the original PCV valve(possibly from the factory nearly 20 years old!!!) looked when I pulled it a while back catching up the regular maintenance on this car.
 
Originally Posted By: LckydevL



I wasn't planning on using any in the gas tank. But after hearing someone else having success with silencing the knock. When I change my oil tomorrow (1 more Kreen treatment just to be sure), I am going to try it in the fuel system and hope for the best.


Changed oil and other fluids today.

Wow, the oil flew out of the drain hole. Usually, I have to wait on it to drain but not this time. Oil was very thin and still had the Kreen smell even after burn-off. The oil on the dipstick really darkened up the last 500 miles. So it was definitely time for an OC.

I checked the older PCV valve (replaced about 2yrs ago) and it was a little sludged. Kind of surprised me. Any other time I have replaced the PCV it was always dirty. Not a sludgy slimy dirty but a dry dirty if that makes sense to anyone. Anyway, it does seem to have an effect on the PCV valve system.

Decided to go ahead with a new one instead of cleaning up the old one again. Went to dealership and found out that there is a revised edition for my PCV valve. The new one is just a shell. Doesn't have any spring actuated valve on the end or anything. A smaller hole on the bottom but everything else looks normal.
 
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Originally Posted By: LckydevL
Originally Posted By: LckydevL



I wasn't planning on using any in the gas tank. But after hearing someone else having success with silencing the knock. When I change my oil tomorrow (1 more Kreen treatment just to be sure), I am going to try it in the fuel system and hope for the best.


Changed oil and other fluids today.

Wow, the oil flew out of the drain hole. Usually, I have to wait on it to drain but not this time. Oil was very thin and still had the Kreen smell even after burn-off. The oil on the dipstick really darkened up the last 500 miles. So it was definitely time for an OC.

I checked the older PCV valve (replaced about 2yrs ago) and it was a little sludged. Kind of surprised me. Any other time I have replaced the PCV it was always dirty. Not a sludgy slimy dirty but a dry dirty if that makes sense to anyone. Anyway, it does seem to have an effect on the PCV valve system.

Decided to go ahead with a new one instead of cleaning up the old one again. Went to dealership and found out that there is a revised edition for my PCV valve. The new one is just a shell. Doesn't have any spring actuated valve on the end or anything. A smaller hole on the bottom but everything else looks normal.


Interestingly, there had been some confusion from folks I've spoken with regarding the VX model civic I drive. People keep confusing the location of the PCV valve. I think 94 models and onward had them along the Intake Manifold, where as the 92 at least has a valve seated into the breather chamber; which is under the cylinder runners of the IM itself...I found that sucker and pulled it: Slimy goo, nasty. It looks like the original PCV valve!!!

Anyway, using aftermarket Beck/Arnley brand which may/may not be OE, after I clean up some more will check to see if it's crud-filled again. My worries/concerns are if the prev owner allowed the car to get 'bad off' whether the chamber itself has any sludge, I doubt it but may eventually remove the chamber itself.

Depending on how the valve-train looks when I remove the Valve Cover Gasket, I'll know whether I'll use Kreen is this app sooner or later.
 
I am on my THIRD round of Kreen. This one is on fresh oil. The last oil had 5000 kms put on it mixed. It had two rounds of Kreen. Came out so black that, um never mind, it was black. I have a write up coming up this weekend. I have visible reduction in the aluminum foil thick layer of black poop on the engine looking from the peep hole.

Got pics!
 
MeaMurano we are all waiting to see your write up with Pics. I would have taken pictures if I could see past the filler hole on my T4R. On my 1997 T4R there is a black baffle obstructing the view of the valve train and into the engine.

The purpose of this black baffle....is still a baffle to me. Does anyone familiar with Toyota's know the purpose of the black baffle in the oil fill hole?

I'd sure like to know......because I'm baffled!
 
Originally Posted By: mongo161
MeaMurano we are all waiting to see your write up with Pics. I would have taken pictures if I could see past the filler hole on my T4R. On my 1997 T4R there is a black baffle obstructing the view of the valve train and into the engine.

The purpose of this black baffle....is still a baffle to me. Does anyone familiar with Toyota's know the purpose of the black baffle in the oil fill hole?

I'd sure like to know......because I'm baffled!
It covers gears under valve cover. I removed mine with good'ol dremel. One minus-- I can't add any oil or Kreen while engine runs, If I open filler cap it will spray me with oil(I guess).
 
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Thanks zyxelenator for the clarification and explanation. I guess it does serve a purpose. I'm no longer baffled by this black baffle.

It might protect the topside of the engine during an OCI at a quick lube. I've noticed how those guys shove the oil filler hose nozzle into the oil filler....that force and constant knocking would cause some damage if left unprotected.

Looks like Toyota has a good reason for having those installed.
 
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Mainly to not get spayed, protect gears and trap large debris.But if you change oil yourself, I would remove it. It's easier to monitor thru hole, than remove valve cover every time. I guess you have 1mz-fe engine? Then you got sludge factory and it would be more beneficial not to have baffle.
 
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Originally Posted By: mongo161
Thanks zyxelenator for the clarification and explanation. I guess it does serve a purpose. I'm no longer baffled by this black baffle.

It might protect the topside of the engine during an OCI at a quick lube. I've noticed how those guys shove the oil filler hose nozzle into the oil filler....that force and constant knocking would cause some damage if left unprotected.

Looks like Toyota has a good reason for having those installed.


Your guys are right again. Baffle is there to protect valve train from "over exuberant" quick changers.

http://www.toyotapart.com/CYLINDER_HEAD_COVER_BAFFLE_PRECAUTIONS_T-SB-0038-08.pdf

Joe
 
Not in my 1997 4Runner! I'm fortunate to have the 3.4L, 5VZ-FE.

This 1997 Toyota 4Runner is in no-way a sludge monster like the Corolla, Camry, and Avalon of the same era.

My T4R is equipped with a V6, dual overhead cams, 24 valves, 206 cu. in. Horsepower 183 @ 4800 Torque (lb-ft) 217 @ 3600 Transmission 4-speed electronically-controlled automatic.

I tried to get the 5 speed standard transmission, at the time of my purchase, since they were nowhere to be found in my market area, I had to settle for the automatic.
 
Okay... Here it is.

Like I said I'm on my third dose of KREEN on my 2nd OCI.


Below are the pics that made me thinking what can get this mess out of my engine... THe engine is a NISSAN VQ35DE (Murano 3.5 V6).

BEFORE KREEN:
IMG_3040.jpg

FIRST KREEN TREATMENT:
IMG_3209.jpg

SECOND KREEN:
IMG_3469.jpg

OCI:
IMG_3546.jpg

The oil from the first round consisting of 2 Kreen doses.
IMG_3572.jpg
IMG_3579.jpg
IMG_3596.jpg

PRESENT DAY WITH 1000 kms on the Kreen:
IMG_3591.jpg

IMG_3611.jpg

IMG_3615.jpg

IMG_3590.jpg
 
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