Kohler Command - Year Round Oil

[jeepman3071]

5w40 or 10w30 synthetic is perfect for these engines year round. I even run 0w40 Castrol in mine just because I have it on hand from my car.

I never understand why people insist on running oversized filters on these engines, they don't need it, and it isn't improving anything. In fact it can only cause issues from:
-the filter sticking out too far and hitting/rubbing something
-oil taking longer to warm up and flow during freezing temps
-some of these engines have to fill the filter before the oil gets to the bearings, if your ADBV fails on one of these big filters it's worse

I've cut open OPE filters that were on for 10+ years, and they have never been clogged up. One was even on an engine where the oil was never changed, just topped off. The filter media was dark, but not full of debris.

 

[ripcord]

Agreed. If the drain back valve fails, a bigger filter takes longer to fill before the rest of the engine gets pressure. I had this happen with a CV16 and realized what was going on when I noticed the dipstick would read full before cold startup and half way down the hash marks after running awhile.

 

[dwendt44]

the oversized 3614 size doesn't rub on any body work or frame parts on
any tractor or zero turn I've seen.
Plus, as I partly fill the filter before install, a dry start isn't an issue for me.
Assuming you are using the proper weight oil for winter use, oil warm up
shouldn't be an issue either. 0W or 5W oil warms faster than a 10W oil.


My 2¢

 

[ripcord]

the oversized 3614 size doesn't rub on any body work or frame parts on
any tractor or zero turn I've seen.
Plus, as I partly fill the filter before install, a dry start isn't an issue for me.
Assuming you are using the proper weight oil for winter use, oil warm up
shouldn't be an issue either. 0W or 5W oil warms faster than a 10W oil.


My 2¢

The dry startup issue we were talking about is when the oil in the filter runs back into the crank case while sitting.

 

[Delta]

the oversized 3614 size doesn't rub on any body work or frame parts on
any tractor or zero turn I've seen.
Plus, as I partly fill the filter before install, a dry start isn't an issue for me.
Assuming you are using the proper weight oil for winter use, oil warm up
shouldn't be an issue either. 0W or 5W oil warms faster than a 10W oil.


My 2¢

Newer Cub's (MTD made) with the V-Twin Command will rub the steering linkage with a 3614. It's incredibly tight! I used a Hastings LF149 which is a little fatter and slightly longer than the Kohler filter.

You can see how close the arm is in this picture. After a month or so of use and a couple hard turns it did slightly dent the filter. They make a filter relocation kit, but at this point it's not worth it; gonna run a Kohler filter on it from now on.

 

[fozzdesy2001]

I just picked up a Cub Cadet 3240 with a 22HP Kohler Command to use primarily to push snow. However, I want to use an oil that also be good in the summer should I choose to mow with it. It calls for 10W-30 or 10W-40 above 32* and 5W-30 or 5W-40 below 32*. I'm thinking a full synthetic 5W-40 would be good year round...something like Rotella T6 5W-40. What are your thoughts?

I have to go with my favorite all-season oil Mobil 1 0w-40. Easy to crank when it's cold and handles all the heat of summer.

 

[dwendt44]

The dry startup issue we were talking about is when the oil in the filter runs back into the crank case while sitting.

The 3614 has an anti-drain back valve the would stop any flow back in through the oil pump.

My 2¢

 

[jeepman3071]

Newer Cub's (MTD made) with the V-Twin Command will rub the steering linkage with a 3614. It's incredibly tight! I used a Hastings LF149 which is a little fatter and slightly longer than the Kohler filter.

You can see how close the arm is in this picture. After a month or so of use and a couple hard turns it did slightly dent the filter. They make a filter relocation kit, but at this point it's not worth it; gonna run a Kohler filter on it from now on.

Yeah if there's risk of damaging the filter it's just not worth it. You are much better off running a stock sized filter. I replaced an engine on a fairly new zero-turn because the guy ran an oversized filter, backed up too close to something and damaged the filter. It was leaking oil, but since the engine is in the rear he didn't notice, and it seized while he was still mowing. Hopefully on a front-engined tractor you would notice, but just not worth the risk for no real benefit in my opinion.

 

[dwendt44]

Not familiar with Cub Cadets. BUT I did see a few Husqvarnas with
a similar set up with the steering shaft. IRCC, the 3614 would just barely clear.

So, with Cub tractors, use the tinny filter and sleep well.


My 2¢

 

[Astro_Guy]

5w40 or 10w30 synthetic is perfect for these engines year round. I even run 0w40 Castrol in mine just because I have it on hand from my car.

I never understand why people insist on running oversized filters on these engines, they don't need it, and it isn't improving anything. In fact it can only cause issues from:
-the filter sticking out too far and hitting/rubbing something
-oil taking longer to warm up and flow during freezing temps
-some of these engines have to fill the filter before the oil gets to the bearings, if your ADBV fails on one of these big filters it's worse

I've cut open OPE filters that were on for 10+ years, and they have never been clogged up. One was even on an engine where the oil was never changed, just topped off. The filter media was dark, but not full of debris.

Assuming no clearance issues, the summer benefits should be

• a small increase in oil capacity
• a small increase in surface area for oil cooling
• a lower price compared to the OEM filter

Personally I am willing to accept the first two benefits in exchange for a filter that costs half as much. That said, I don't understand why people put Fram 3600's on these motors. Way too big!

 

[jeepman3071]

Assuming no clearance issues, the summer benefits should be

• a small increase in oil capacity
• a small increase in surface area for oil cooling
• a lower price compared to the OEM filter

Personally I am willing to accept the first two benefits in exchange for a filter that costs half as much. That said, I don't understand why people put Fram 3600's on these motors. Way too big!

Aftermarket filters are preferred over the OEM in my opinion. They are half the price for a better constructed filter. Many of the OEM filters are cheap E-Cores with expensive paint. Something like a Fram 3614 is fine, I'm talking about the guys who run a 3600 or a Wix 51516 filter. Way too long and greatly increases the risk of damage. Sure, there is a slight increase in oil capacity, but it will be negated if the ADBV fails. I doubt there would be a measurable difference in cooling.

 

[Astro_Guy]

Aftermarket filters are preferred over the OEM in my opinion. They are half the price for a better constructed filter. Many of the OEM filters are cheap E-Cores with expensive paint. Something like a Fram 3614 is fine, I'm talking about the guys who run a 3600 or a Wix 51516 filter. Way too long and greatly increases the risk of damage. Sure, there is a slight increase in oil capacity, but it will be negated if the ADBV fails. I doubt there would be a measurable difference in cooling.

Heat transfer is drive by delta T, or the temperature difference between the hot and cold parts in the mix. Heat transfer in this application is via convection, meaning that a liquid or gas passing over the hot parts will carry the heat to somewhere colder. The factors worthy of consideration there are air flow and cooling surface area. Increasing the filter size will increase the cooling surface area with little or no effect on air flow.

That's an engineering analysis of why we agree.