Kohler 7000 pro series 26 HP oil

SA1

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Jun 18, 2023
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I have a new 26HP kohler 7000 series pro, I have 5 hours on it and would like to do a oil change, all I have on hand for oil is, Amsoil 100% synthetic small engine oil10w 40 is that weight ok to run in these engines or should I go no higher then 10x 30. Thanks
 
Didn't did get one with it, besides there usually outdated by 10 years or better, looking on line its all over the place, I was looking to see if anyone on here actually runs 10w40 in these engines or if there is a reason I shouldn't
 
I'd say any air cooled can do well on thicker oil for protection on small engines. There is a situation were a thicker oil could reduce power but your nowhere near that issue with 26hp. That amsoil would be excellent for your Kohler. There are several things to take into consideration about making the engine last forever. Like tractor itself, transmission, electrical, bushings, etc. that ultimately can decide wether the tractor is worth repairing. Needs change too. That oil should have less burn off too. How often do you plan on changing the oil? Just curious 🧐
 
I'd say any air cooled can do well on thicker oil for protection on small engines. There is a situation were a thicker oil could reduce power but your nowhere near that issue with 26hp. That amsoil would be excellent for your Kohler. There are several things to take into consideration about making the engine last forever. Like tractor itself, transmission, electrical, bushings, etc. that ultimately can decide wether the tractor is worth repairing. Needs change too. That oil should have less burn off too. How often do you plan on changing the oil? Just curious 🧐
Thanks for the reply, I'll change the oil here at 5 hours again at 20 and maybe again at end of summer, depending on how many hours are on it but it won't go over a hundred for the next one, the hydros will get done at 30 or 40 hours then again at around a hundred as well. I try to service my stuff adequately, car etc. I have a new 23hp Kawasaki Fr691v thats just POS can't keep it out of the shop., thats kinda why I went with the Kohler this time, this zero turn will be a back up to the Kawasaki if I ever get that engine running right.
 
Thanks for the reply, I'll change the oil here at 5 hours again at 20 and maybe again at end of summer, depending on how many hours are on it but it won't go over a hundred for the next one, the hydros will get done at 30 or 40 hours then again at around a hundred as well. I try to service my stuff adequately, car etc. I have a new 23hp Kawasaki Fr691v thats just POS can't keep it out of the shop., thats kinda why I went with the Kohler this time, this zero turn will be a back up to the Kawasaki if I ever get that engine running right.
Sounds like a solid plan and that's unfortunate on the Kawasaki. I think they do get bragged up a bit too much though and they experience faults like the other ones. Use them as intended and maintain them they should last a while. Kawasaki just not running right or something?
 
The kawi had issues from day 1 ( new ) I'm not going to say to much now as its in the shop,waiting for it to get opened up to see for sure whats wrong, I probably no and could speculate, but lets wait and see, either way its absolutely nothing I did to it, 110 hours on it, it just suck when you buy a new one thinking it will be reliable and you shouldn't have issues, then you have to go buy another new one, because the first one won't stay running.
 
Thanks for the reply, I'll change the oil here at 5 hours again at 20 and maybe again at end of summer, depending on how many hours are on it but it won't go over a hundred for the next one, the hydros will get done at 30 or 40 hours then again at around a hundred as well. I try to service my stuff adequately, car etc. I have a new 23hp Kawasaki Fr691v thats just POS can't keep it out of the shop., thats kinda why I went with the Kohler this time, this zero turn will be a back up to the Kawasaki if I ever get that engine running right.
I'm a big proponent of "change early, change often" when it comes to new engines. 1-2, 2 5, 10 hours. It can vary but generally when the oil comes out clean, I'll lengthen the intervals to more normal/appropriate for the conditions.
 
For less time than to write the opening thread, the information could have been obtained in the manual.
For less time then it took you to write something meaning less,you could have read my post, I wanted to see if people were running something heavier like 10w40.
 
I'm a big proponent of "change early, change often" when it comes to new engines. 1-2, 2 5, 10 hours. It can vary but generally when the oil comes out clean, I'll lengthen the intervals to more normal/appropriate for the conditions.
Yup your really right on that, that goes for any engine, in my new car I changed it after an hour, a 1k KM 2500 km etc. For anyone that ran particle/metal testing on oil or even seen oil samples will know why thats important,
 
For less time then it took you to write something meaning less,you could have read my post, I wanted to see if people were running something heavier like 10w40.
On a new engine, READ THE MANUAL. It won't hurt you.
 
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The Amsoil would work perfectly fine.

Small engines aren't hard on oil, but they do run hot. Personally I usually just use a HDEO like Rotella 15w40, cheap and easy to find.
 
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I like Mobil 1 15W-50 in mine.

Good feeling knowing it’s protected when running wide open for hours straight in 90°F+ ambient temps.

Also simplifies things that I only need to keep 1 oil on hand for the mower (the M1 15W-50 is also ideal for the ZT-2800 hydrostatic transaxles).

It’s also always on the shelf 3 miles away at Walmart.
 
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