Kitchen sink diverter valve

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JHZR2

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Hi,

My home has low pressure, so I've been trying to remedy anything that I can. One is a kitchen faucet diverted valve.

With it in, flow is like this:

96138ba1.jpg


I pulled the spout to see the diverter:

f8e5bbce.jpg


Which looks like this:

[URL]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j317/JHZR2/BITOG6/ae9fc654.jpg[/URL][/IMG

Putting it back together without the valve, flow looks like this:

[IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j317/JHZR2/BITOG6/ad9efca2.jpg

When I'm not operating the sprayer, nothing flows from it, I guess the valve on it's handle is sufficient to hold back the pressure.

But when I do spray, while what comes from the sprayer seems the same as ever flow wise (which is fine), there is a significant flow still from the faucet:

5bd03cca.jpg


So, my question is what is the issue if I was to keep that diverter valve out, just not install it again? I don't think we care about the faucet still flowing when using the sprayer. Are there any possible issues just leaving the sink without having that diverter screwed in?

Might a similar thing be causing our shower pressure issues?

Thanks!
 
Well, the diverter valve is actuated by water pressure. If pressure is not up to par, it won't work properly. That might have been your problem before. I don't think there's a problem with leaving it out, but you're really treating symptoms and not the cause, IMO.

I'd get a bladder tank, but first I'd clean out the shower head and take the aerators off the faucets and bounce the line pressure a few times to shake loose gunk and see how that helps. Flush the water heater, etc.
 
Where is the one in the bath? At the little pull-up thing to switch between flowing up or down???
 
Originally Posted By: greenaccord02
Well, the diverter valve is actuated by water pressure. If pressure is not up to par, it won't work properly. That might have been your problem before. I don't think there's a problem with leaving it out, but you're really treating symptoms and not the cause, IMO.

I'd get a bladder tank, but first I'd clean out the shower head and take the aerators off the faucets and bounce the line pressure a few times to shake loose gunk and see how that helps. Flush the water heater, etc.


Low pressure is a problem, but I e done everything mentioned.

Bladder on a municipal supply???
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Bladder on a municipal supply???
I don't see why not. A bladder tank with a pressure pump would help no matter where the water is coming from, I would think. As long as it doesn't allow backflow (which it wouldn't) it will likely meet any codes or ordnances.
 
My parents are on muni water but have a tank/pump in the basement to buffer a slow feed condition. I believe the builder, who built the house for his parents, installed this setup to accommodate the filling of a whirlpool bath, which would have taken hours to fill with the street feed gpm.
 
Originally Posted By: Warstud
Ask a neighbor how there pressure is.


I'm not particularly worried about that now. I've seen the inside of the watermain, I know the issues.

Id like to do what I can to reconcile them as best as I can, cheaply/free, where I can.
If I can remove a diverter from the sink and get totally acceptable flow, it sure beats paying for a bladder tank.

So my questions are (1) what am I giving up by removing this thing? And (2), how would I similarly mod the bathroom fixture, if it is possible at all?

Thanks!
 
And the sprayer still works... Well!

It's just that a lot of water still comes out the tap...
 
Your sprayer will be fine. No problem there. The mechanism was holding the line half closed due to low water pressure, but the shower/bath is a straight pipe. Nothing is going to get you more water pressure except, well...


More water pressure.
 
But isn't there a "diverter valve" that directs the water between the shower head and the bathtub?

Isn't there also something that one can drill out of a shower head to provide more flow?
 
Well, I figured you'd already took out any restriction disc in the shower head when you cleaned it. If you haven't, remove that thing and get after it with a drill. Mine came out with a little disassembly, and by progressively using larger drill bits you can tune the amount of pressure you want. I'd just remove the restriction completely, though, as it sounds like you want all you can get. The placement and design of these discs varies by brand, so you'll just have to figure the details out yourself.

That diverter valve you're talking about is (or should be and in my experience always has been) a full flow switch. It's either going to the tub or to the shower head, but either one gets 100% of the pressure. It shouldn't put any flow restriction on the line, regardless of which setting it's in.

They make low-flow shower heads, but those require line pressure to aerate the water so that it feels like more water is coming out than what actually is, so they most likely will give bad performance in this application.
 
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