keys

[berge]

hello
bought 94wagon.
came with one key. works perfect on passenger lock and hatch lock.
drivers lock is impossible and ignition switch is next to impossible. I'm assuming car was broken into at some point and drivers lock and ignition lock were changed.

question is, how in the **** am I going to figure out what the key #'s for the drivers door and ignition switch are?

thanks

 

[berge]

I knew about these issues already. it's a 94 accord wagon with 130km/80miles from original owner with all service receipts from honda. she had remote entry from day one so probably didn't care about the driver lock but the ignition I knew about. she said she 'jiggles it' just right and it goes, and it does. the dealership, from the invoices I've seen, just soaked her on absolutely everything and sold her stuff she didn't need too. I think by the last 2-3 years, she was so disgusted by the dealer that she got rid of a fundamentally perfectly running car with some minor issues.

re locks. assuming the 'tumblers' are worn in drivers lock and ignition, can I just change the tumblers myself without having new keys cut? I have the factory service manual but have never tackled a 'key' problem in all the time I've owned honda's/ acura's.

thanks

 

[berge]

ok, I'm an idiot.

drivers door lock works now, I sprayed some wd40 in there.

ignition lock is still very stiff, can I spray some wd40 in there too, will it harm anything?

thanks

 

[Kestas]

I think you should fix the ignition tumbler pronto, while the key still works somewhat. Once it's completely frozen, I believe it'll cost many times more than a conventional fix. I don't know the setup with the Honda, but for most cars there's a hole in the tumbler body which allow you to insert a pin, then you can remove the tumbler with the key to have the locksmith fix it. This is assuming the problem is limited to the tumbler mechanism.

So much for Honda quality.

 

[berge]

now it turns bizarre.

I insert key into ignition fully, back off just a bit, and it turns no problem.
what's going on here?

worn key or worn tumblers?

thanks

 

[MN Driver]

I know somebody else that had this problem, the key to open the trunk is very difficult and the solution seemed to be to put the key in and pull it out very slightly and the lock would turn. He was going to bring it in and have a copy of the key made trying to slightly offset it the correct distance so that it would work properly. Perhaps you have a bad copy of the key, I've had quite a few issues with copying keys at hardware stores.

 

[Kestas]

I don't understand. How did you test drive this vehicle?... or did you take it off somebody's hands?

On most cars, the tumbler in the door should be removable. That can be dealt with by a locksmith. Your challenge will be the ignition tumbler. That is usually only removed with a working key.

What make an model do you have?

 

[Gary Allan]

For all you know they chose the wrong key blank. There are many that are identical that are only different in depth (not necessarily automotive keys).

 

[michael harris]

its either a blank was too long by like .050" or more or less. or.... the key machine is/was out of proper adjustment from the key side to the blank side..( something that is very common )
Go to an actual locksmiths shop , explain what is up and have one of the guys try the key and make a correct depth cut and try it on all of the doors, etc.
ALSO... wd-40 is not for locks, wd-40 initially helps a problem, but in short order the graphite that is suppose to be in there becomes a glob that will eventually render the lock near useless. clean the lock out with contact cleaner or brake cleaner well, let it completely dry then put a healthy dose of powder graphite in the cylinder and work the key in and repeat several times, you will be amazed at the results. promise.
**** no wd-40 on locks****
44H

 

[kloppilt]

Your problem seems to be a combination of worn locks (the driver side lock and the ignition are the most used locks on cars), and either worn or improperly copied keys.

If the key is not original inspect it to see if both sides match, you will be able to see if a groove on one side is deeper than the other.

You can take the key to a locksmith and have a key cut by a computer that will produce a key to manufacturer specs.

 

[berge]

I tried the same 'insert key and back off a bit' trick with the drivers door lock also, and, voila, it works perfectly.

Since this is the only key that came with the vehicle should I make a trip to the dealer or a locksmith. Isn't the dealer just going to make a copy of this key which doesn't work that well anyways?

thanks everyone, I really appreciate it. I was about to ante up $300+ for a new master lock set. hopefully this works.

thanks.

 

[Harvey]

Berge, I think you should follow Michael's advice and clean the locks and use the graphite, it'll save trouble in the long run.

 

[brian fix]

Clean lock with electrical contact cleaner,use lots,,run key in and out a number of times when saturated,,,also make sure key is GOOD,not worn or bent,,,,then after pins are clean and dry,use graphite or Triflow or similar just a bit,should help,if this does not work,new lock is in order,,or be repinned at a lock shop,,,,,,,,,BL

 

[keval85]

Had same problem with my pick-up,had new ignition switch from gm dealer installed with new key,painted old key red and use for door lock.

 

[berge]

at honda they pulled the key code from the VIN, and cut a new key with a computerized key cutter, without using the old worn key as a template. very impressive, I had never seen anything like this.

anyways, it works perfectly now.

thanks.

 

[berge]

'clean the lock out with contact cleaner or brake cleaner well, let it completely dry then put a healthy dose of powder graphite in the cylinder and work the key in and repeat several times, you will be amazed at the results'

for everyone that suggested graphite for extra smoothness, are we talking about a graphite spray, which I have, or powder?

thanks

 

[Kestas]

The spray uses a solvent carrier, which evaporates and leaves the graphite behind. The problem with that is that relubrication can add graphite to the point that it becomes a blob, hindering tumbler action. So, cleaning before lubing should help a lot.

Another issue is whether to use grphite lube or Tri-flow (synthetic lube with teflon particles). There is a remote chance that graphite can wreak havoc with the electrical contacts nearby.... and there's a lot of these contacts on modern cars.

I had Oldsmobile cut me a new key from the numbers on my 71 Cutlass. All the old keys were worn. Now I make all my copies from this key and keep this new key unused as a master.