K1200S.....It finally got here!

[Jim 5]

Still trying to figure out the whacky signal-light controls. It was on a slow boat from Germany, but it finally came. It arrived with 1km on the odometer, so I knew I could do the motoman break-in on it. The dealership was under strict orders that if there was more than 5km's on it when I took delivery, the deal was off.

It asks for 10w-40 or 15w-50. I suspect I'll be using an HDEO like Rotella 15w40 or Supertech (on Sunruh's recommendation), if I could be sure Canadian supertech is the same stuff Sunruh gets where he lives. Later, I might move to amsoil 10w-40, but I understand these bikes take close to 8k miles before they start developing full power, which is rated at 168HP. This thing is so long, that even with all that power, I can't even loft the front wheel, let alone wheelie. It feels surprisingly light and nimble though.

The chainless, single-sided swing-arm (ring and pinion) final drive asks for 75w-90 (0.22L per fill), and I think I'll be using some redline or Castrol Syntec (from wally world).

Any thoughts on either the oil or diff fluid would be appreciated.

Anyhow, here's a few shots.

 

[Bill in Utah]

Nice.

Lets see if its R then its a boxer motor and K it is upright?

I'd love an 1980-1983 R100-RS or S model. Someday I just bay buy one and restore it.

I've had a lot of bikes through the year and as of last year sold every one of them. Back in the 80s even sold Yamaha, Suzuki and Kawasaki bikes at a dealer.

Fun times.

Be safe with the new bike!

Bill

 

[cos]

Nice scoot!

I though I had read somewhere that some newer BMWs had a sealed final drive unit (filled with a syn at the factory).

 

[harley145000]

cool bike

 

[02zx9r]

Very nice!

nice suomy helmet too!

I believe any hdeo would do well for you. Rotella is very popular. Steve (sunruh) tested the srt 15w40 in his dirtbike and it help up pretty well. I would not hesitate to use either rotella or supertech.

Have fun and be safe!

 

[Jim 5]

Originally Posted By: cos
Nice scoot!

I though I had read somewhere that some newer BMWs had a sealed final drive unit (filled with a syn at the factory).


So they used to say. After some final drive failures, they are now recommending that the fluid be changed after 1000km's (or was that 10,000km...I'll have to chase that down).

In any case, I'll be changing it at 1,000k and probably once a year thereafter.

 

[RWEST]

Very, very nice!!

Quote:
After some final drive failures, they are now recommending that the fluid be changed after 1000km's (or was that 10,000km...I'll have to chase that down).

Check out the forums - they're pretty good at letting you know the 'real world' requirements.

 

[Jim 5]

I was at the dealer today and found out that from 2007 onwards they change the final drive fluid at 1000km/600miles as part of the bike's first service.

 

[harley145000]

Hey 1200s with all that equipment in the back ground you could make you own bike lol

 

[Jim 5]

Read the manual front to back, and it specifies 10w-40 for conditions as cold as -20C and 15w40 for warmer than -10C.

Looks like it is going to be a good HDEO for the rest of this bike's life. Nothing special required!

 

[Jim 5]

Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Nice.

Lets see if its R then its a boxer motor and K it is upright?




That nomenclature sounds right Bill. This one has an inline 4 with some notable changes from standard bmw. First, it has a shared sump which is a first for BMW inline 4's if I'm not mistaken. This will hurt the UOA's. Second, the cylinders are tilted forward 55 degrees (making for a long bike) but with the effect of lowering the center of gravity.

The bike is surprisingly nimble and feels like it weighs dramatically less than it does (550lbs +). The lower center of gravity helps this, not to mention the 168HP. Should be an excellent sport-tourer.

Now to figure out where in the world to mount all of my junk like the GPS, the heated vest controller (a necessity in Canada) and the radar detector. I have to pick up the factory panniers and mount those. Plus, I have ordered the center stand (a factory option believe it or not) and will have to drill into the lower fairing to mount it.

 

[whitesands]

Nice! Choose your oil weight based on temps in your manual....Change the oil before 200 miles and get the metal shavings out as soon as you can...Alot of manuals recommend 600 miles but I would not wait that long...It might be a good idea for you to have more than one oil change by 600 miles.

I'm using Rotella 15W40 right now and it is working very well.

 

[CaspianM]

Nice bike.

 

[edhackett]

Quote:
So they used to say. After some final drive failures, they are now recommending that the fluid be changed after 1000km's (or was that 10,000km...I'll have to chase that down).

In any case, I'll be changing it at 1,000k and probably once a year thereafter.



It's not an easy job. There is no drain plug (unless added for 2008). You have to remove the final drive and turn it upside down to drain the oil out of the vent. This will be done at the 600 mile service.

You are right about the break-in. My K100RS used a bit of oil until 13K.

Ed.