K&N Gold Oil Filter HP-1003

[SWHeat]

I took this thing off on 3-22-06 and then had it tilted for a few days with little oil drainage. I then put it face down in the drain pan and then later on a paper towel for over a week. I cut it open today to see what it had caught inside. The thing was still FULL of oil after being face down for over a week and tilted for a few days. I couldn't believe it. What a mess I made. Good thing I had paper towels handy. I should have opened it up over the drain pan, but was not expecting that much oil from previous experience.

Also, it did a good job filtering from the particle count posted here earlier. This engine must have some sludge in it as there was quite a bit sludge in the filter, more than I've seen in other filters during an Auto-RX treatment. Same Engine, different car. I have not done an Auto-RX treatment on it (2000 Prizm 1.8L 1ZZFE), but Terry suggested I do so in his analysis. I have done one on the other Prizm, but it didnt' have this much in the filter on either phase of the Auto-RX treatment, like I said.

Lastly, I was in Pep Boys yesterday and they have the K&N Golds for $9.99. Today online I found them for $8.85 with free shipping if you buy three (over $25 worth is free shipping). I just may buy some more, as after cutting it open I'm really impressed. AJUSA dot com.

 

[quik89si]

I have been wondering about the quality and overall impression of K&N filters for a while, as I have been using them (purchasing them from the same site you mentioned above) for quite some time. I like the overall construction of the filter, and the 1" nut on the end that makes removal easier.

 

[dailydriver]

They are one of only 3 filters I would ever allow on my car (the other two being M1 EL and the Amsoil EaOs). For my girlfriend's car ('97 Maxima GLE) I "step down" to a Wix.

 

[MarkC]

Wix, a step down from K&N?
Highly unlikely.

 

[m2200b]

Flows like a Purolator plus. Filters a little worse. Has a thicker can and the nut on the end.
That's not worth an extra $6-10 to me.

 

[Ray H]

quote:

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Originally posted by SWHeat:
I took this thing off on 3-22-06 and then had it tilted for a few days with little oil drainage. I then put it face down in the drain pan and then later on a paper towel for over a week. ... The thing was still FULL of oil after being face down for over a week and tilted for a few days. I couldn't believe it.

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So brim-full and face down, on a paper-towel blotter, and no oil in the dirty side of the filter percolated through the media and out the filter's exit port? Wow - I couldn't believe it either.

It's a miracle! (either that or you were merrily driving along in full bypass for who knows how long...

)

 

[SWHeat]

quote:

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So brim-full and face down, on a paper-towel blotter, and no oil in the dirty side of the filter percolated through the media and out the filter's exit port? Wow - I couldn't believe it either! [freaknout] And then I realized, you were merrily driving in full bypass for who knows how long... [Wink]

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Hmmmm, interesting thought. There was quite a bit of filtered gunk at the dome end of the can. I mean these thimble size Toyota filters of all of them out there would be the first size to load up. I usually run the Ford size FL-400/PH3600.

I wonder if you could put oil into a brand new filter on the dirty side only, how much you would get out through the media in a week. All of it? That is what you presume...I don't know it that is the case at all. Especially given the small size of the filter in the first place. Atmospheric pressure...blah blah I forgot all of that stuff. Filter Gurus/hydrolics experts know the answer?

I would put it on a paper towel for a day and then check it as I passed by the shelf when I got home. Never more than a ring where the gasket was placed. I thought it odd that there was always a ring each time as if it were empty, eventually there would be no residual. I just thought it was a dang good anti-drain valve when I opened it up with all of that oil. I guess it is possible it could have been fully loaded and kicking into bypass. If so, this size is a dome end bypass. Rats. I bought the HP-1002 (a little wider and just a bit taller) and the HP-2009 (Ford size mentioned above) from the website. Both have the threaded end bypass. Thanks for the replies.

 

[SWHeat]

Nice edit Ray H. Your original post as quoted above wasn't sarcastic enough?

I'll run one of your Super Tech filters and do a particle count on it to see how it does. I realize you think anything above a Fram or Super Tech is overkill and will do nothing to help the enginelastlonger. No I will not run a micro sized Fram...or any Fram on my car. I'll run the Super Tech4967 size to compare 5K particle counts.

m2200b, I'm sure the media has changed in both the Purlolator Plus and the K&N Gold since the oil filter study was done, to which you allude. Latest Info on PP and P1 It doesn't show a change in the PP, but that doesn't mean it hasn't changed since "11/7/2003" when the "oil fiter study" waslastupdated.

MarkC, it would depend entirely on which Wix application you were discussing. The beta ratios on their website vary greatly between applications. The particle count for this filter was given here Particle count HP-1003. I have in my filter stash some Wix 51516's and I'll get a 51394/PH4967/L14476 size and run it so it will be a direct comparison to this filter. The only info on he Wix website for the 51394 is a nominal rating of 19, not good IMHO. Who knows, the Wix may be better. Hence the test.

The current filter on the car is a Baldwin B-223 which is a PH3614/51348/L10241 cross reference. A particle count will be done at 5K for comparison. New STP air filter placed at the beginning of the OCI. Are we having fun yet?

 

[vad]

quote:

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Originally posted by m2200b:
Flows like a Purolator plus. Filters a little worse. Has a thicker can and the nut on the end.
That's not worth an extra $6-10 to me.

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Second that!

 

[SWHeat]

quote:

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Originally posted by vad:

quote:

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Originally posted by m2200b:
Flows like a Purolator plus. Filters a little worse. Has a thicker can and the nut on the end.
That's not worth an extra $6-10 to me.

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Second that!

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Fine, I'll run a PP L14476 after the Baldwin. Do a particle count and post. I hope the numbers back ya'll up. A PP would be cheaper to run. Not as sturdy, but cheaper.

 

[m2200b]

It's penny plus a stamp for the rebate at Pepboys.

Will the L14477 fit?

 

[javacontour]

Yes, the L14477 will fit a Toyota 4 cylinder engine.

My Geo Prizm 4A-FE specs the 14476 and I've been using the 14477 for years.

Toyota dealers typically carry two filters for the 4 cylinder engines, the YZZF1 and the YZZF2. Many dealers just carry one, the YZZF1 because they can use it on the cars that spec the YZZF2.

The YZZF1 roughly corresponds to the 14477 and the YZZF2 roughly corresponds to the 14476.

Now if someone would just answer my question about the differences between the YZZF1 and the 10004 Toyota filters...

 

[SWHeat]

Sorry I don't know the answer to that javacontour.

So, which size do you want me to run with the particle count? The L14476 or the L14477? According to other threads it should not matter as the media is supposed to be the same for all sizes with Purolator. I would prefer the larger one, but that would not be a direct compare the the HP-1003. Pro's, Con's?

Of course the baldwin I'm running is a larger one, so maybe the experiment is already flawed? Nah. No worries either way as it will not be 100% scientific as I'm unable to control all variables.

 

[dailydriver]

quote:

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Originally posted by MarkC:
Wix, a step down from K&N?
Highly unlikely.

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Hence the " "s. I don't know, maybe I'll try a Wix next on my car.

I just like the ideas behind Donaldson's technology (Amsoil EaOs) so I will probably stick with them.

 

[SWHeat]

I took off a FL400S off my other Prizm engine (my newer one that has received an Auto Rx treatment) on 4-18-06 and when cut open (after being face down for the past three days) it was still 1/2 full of oil. It was on for 4500 miles with Mobil 1 5w30 oil. First oil change since the Auto Rx treatment. No debris like in the HP-1003 that was on the "older" Prizm. Hence, I do believe that HP-1003 on the "older" engine was indeed nearly fully loaded if not fully loaded. The "older" prizm with more miles has NOT had an Auto RX treatment.

I also took off another HP-1003 that I had set up inline as a transmission filter for the past 4500 miles just to see if it caught anything. It too was 1/2 full and was clean as a whistle. No metal shavings or anything. No debris at all. Of course for a transmission filter...it was still very young at 4500 miles. Basically, I wasted that one.

So, I rekon Ray H was right and the first HP-1003 that did not drain at all must have been loaded and the oil could not drain past the media for even over a week. No miracle here bud. Of course it could also have been due to the fact that ATF is Cst 7.5 and GC is Cst 12.1 at 100C. Plus it has been in the 90's the past two days here.

Next up for the "newer" Prizm is dino Chevron 5w30 for a very short run as I just dropped the oil pan due to it being crunched when I bought it. If I knew it was dented that badly...I would not have bought the car. The oil pan seal was leaking slightly with the Mobil 1 5w30. Just black residue on the right drive shaft, oil pan, and lower block. The oil uptake was smashed some as well. The lower block is well varnished despite having an Auto Rx treatment. I've had the car for a year in this condition, who knows how long it has been driven with the uptake partially blocked. The screen was clean. The oilpan itself was not full of sludge or debris.

The inline transmission filter will be a Baldwin B2-HPG for the next 30K. I'm working on a physical mount for it tomorrow. I just had it zip tied to the lower motor mount and had to use the smaller toytota filter for space reasons. I've found a place to mount it behind the right fender. Well protected. Fun.