John Deere X350

I've been running an x380 for the last 5 years.

You will need to change the fuel filter every year. I had surging and stalling due to the original clogging (without visible junk in the bowl) a month into my second year.

Oil changes are messy. You'll want cardboard, etc, to keep oil off the undercarriage and floor.

The pulley areas fill up with grass clippings FAST. An air compressor works great after mowing.

Be sure to level the deck when you get the mower. The screws are hard to find thru the access holes.

The deck will clog up, and the hose hookup just makes things worse. I back onto a ramp, and clean out with a hoe.

My steering has a lot of slop. Can't see an easy way to fix it.

The reverse pedal is hard to modulate when slowing down, resulting in a quick lock up of the tires, and a sudden stop.

The mower is very quiet when cutting, and I get a perfectly even cut, with almost no visible cuttings sitting on the top of the grass, and I mulch. I just did my first cut, cut off 3" (!), and the lawn looks fantastic.
 
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The reverse pedal is hard to modulate when slowing down, resulting in a quick lock up of the tires, and a sudden stop.
Something doesn’t sound right here. A transmission linkage adjustment or hydro oil change might be in order?
 
After jumping around with engine oil grades, I ran 10w40 motorcycle oil for the last few years and now 15w40 CK-4/SN in my 2011
X320. Same engine as your 380. You can cross over the JD oil filter to a Fram or whatever. I snapped off a plastic shroud and run
#3600 Fram Ultras. I'd advise changing the oil after the first 3 hours.
I hung 4 weights across the back which helped traction and made the ride smoother. I bought a 48" snow blower with the tractor
and a tow behind aerator last year.
Last year both JD and Kabota dealerships sold out of lawn tractors in Canada. Box stores likely had the toy quality ones available.
 
Is a straight 30 important in these engines?
Coincidently, I have a buddy who in fact, just called me yesterday asking about straight 30 grade oil in his Kawasaki.
He just happened to call me from Tractor Supply while he was looking for straight 30 oil, asking for advise.
I had recently given him a 5qt jug of ST 10w30 FS.
I told him to use the 10w30 he had in his garage. Did I give him bad advise?
 
30 grade. Possibly Valvoline Advanced Full Synthetic

Here is a link to the Kawasaki page for your engine: https://kawasakienginesusa.com/engines/fr-series/fr651v

See page 14 in the manual: 10w-40 is recommended for most conditions, but they also allow other viscosities for various temperature ranges.

I have an FX851V in my zero turn, and I have slowly moved to thicker oil over the last 10 years. The JD dealer told me to use 10w-30, and I did for the first few years - and I was annoyed at how much oil it consumed. I finally looked at the Kawasaki manual and saw the same chart I mentioned above and switched to SAE 30, and later to 15w-40. Now I go through an entire season without having to add any oil.

Last year I got a 1980's John Deere 318 as a second mower that consumed a noticeable amount of SAE 30 when worked in hot weather. I switched that over to Mystik 15w-50, and haven't needed to add any oil since. I will probably continue with 15w-50 in both mowers.
 
I typically run 15w40 HDEO in Kawasakis. You can use SAE 30, 10w30, 10w40, etc, but I've just noticed the 15w40 has lower consumption, especially on mowers used commercially.
15w40 diesel oil is the best option for small engine oil. Readily available, robust additives and can be bought at very low prices if you pay attention to this site!!
 
Sweet machine with a Kawasaki engine! They recommend 10w-40 oil, whch by some strange coincidence they also sell. If it were mine, I would run synthetic Rotella T6 15w-40 diesel oil. I've been running that in my JD D140 and a few other machines for the past two years. Zero consumption issues with this oil, and it is both affordable and readily available at your local Wally*World.
 
From one of the X-350 manuals. Enjoy.

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5 hrs and I can tell you that it feels premium. With the extended warranty I will be using the kit for service and the Hy-Gard for the transmission. Will do annually as maintenance guidelines are oil changes at 100 hrs or annually and transmission is at 50 for first change then 200 hours.
https://shop.deere.com/us/product/LG265:-Home-Maintenance-Kit/p/LG265

Nice! Can't go wrong with those kits and doing the service annually. The kit comes with everything you'll need. The only thing I would add to the machine would be an in-line fuel shut off if you plan on storing it for winter, that way you can turn off the fuel and let it run dry before winter storage.
 
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