Jeep Wrangler 3.0L Diesel

I don't have it yet, still waiting on it to be built. We gave them a deposit two and a half months ago. My question is how should I go about UOA's for this new rig? Below is what the supplemental manual says
Quote
SERVICING AND MAINTENANCE SCHEDULED SERVICING — DIESEL ENGINE Your vehicle is equipped with an automatic oil change indicator system. The oil change indicator system will remind you that it is time to take your vehicle in for scheduled maintenance. Based on engine operation conditions, the oil change indicator message will illuminate. This means that service is required for your vehicle. Operating conditions such as frequent short-trips, trailer tow, extremely hot or cold ambient tempera- tures will influence when the "Oil Change Required" message is displayed. Severe Operating Conditions will cause the change oil message to illuminate more frequently. Have your vehicle serviced as soon as possible, within the next 500 miles (805 km). An authorized dealer will reset the oil change indicator message after completing the scheduled oil change. If a scheduled oil change is performed by someone other than an authorized dealer, the message can be reset by referring to the steps described under "Instrument Cluster Display" in "Getting To Know Your Instrument Panel" for further information. NOTE: Under no circumstances should oil change intervals exceed 10,000 miles (16,000 km) or 12 months, whichever comes first. Engine Oil Filter Replacement Residual oil in the housing may spill from the housing when the new filter is installed if the residual oil is not either removed from the housing or enough time has not elapsed to allow the oil to drain back into the engine. When servicing the oil filter on this engine, carefully remove the filter and use a suction gun to remove any residual oil left in the housing or wait about 30 minutes for the oil to drain back into the engine.
I was thinking of getting a sample at delivery or maybe 100 miles for kicks. Then do one at 5000 miles. If it looks like it would go to the 10,000 mile recommendation take it that far regardless of what the oil life monitor says.
Quote
Engine Oil Change Engine Oil — Diesel Engine Refer to "Scheduled Servicing" in this chapter for the proper maintenance intervals. Diesel Engine Oil Selection For best performance and maximum protection under all types of operating conditions, the manufacturer recommends engine oils that meet the requirements of FCA Material Stan- dard MS-12991, and that are API SN certified and meet the requirements of FCA LLC. Engine Oil Viscosity (SAE Grade) — 3.0L Diesel Engine CAUTION! *Your vehicle is equipped with an advanced technology Diesel Engine and an emission device designed to limit Diesel Particulate Emissions from being released into the atmosphere. The durability of your engine and life expectancy of this diesel particulate filter emission device is highly dependent on the use of the correct engine oil.* We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such as Mopar or Pennzoil Platinum Euro that meets FCA Material Standard MS-12991 and the API SN engine oil category is required
Oil changes will be with Mobil Delvac ESP 5W-40. It's in the API SN category and I'm willing to bet since Mopar is semi-sorta tied in to Rotella Mobil said "screw that, we aren't testing to prove that we meet MS-12991." <<< Purely speculation..... I bought 21 gallons of this Delvac ESP (okay deal, after rebates it'll be $15.71 a gallon). I can always use it in the other rigs if this oil shows it self to be glaringly wrong for this latest version of 3.0L VM Motori. I randomly read that there was a synthetic drop in filter for this application, but I can't seem to find it? I really would like to get an FS2500 and get setup to extended OCI's, but it seems prudence says to make sure the oil can even hit the 10,000 mile mark with no issues as is. Does that make sense?
 
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after the Ram ecodiesel oil fiasco, I would take notes on what they are now using.
Originally Posted by JHZR2
Wait, theyre going to sell a wrangler Diesel?!?
yes IIRC is a $5000+ option(maybe more depending on other options) and makes the front end very heavy. I am not sold on it but its pretty nice. I'd rather their newly developed inline 6 gasser with a turbo.
 
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I don't see the point of an oil analysis when you take delivery. I would change it early, like at 1500 miles and then do a 2nd change at 5000 miles. Hopefully this new version of the Eco-diesel has all of the kinks and engineering shortcomings corrected. I would never consider buying anything with than engine made in 2014-2019. The new Delvac ESP 5w40 is primarily GRP III so it will not hold up like the original stuff. The 3.0 has a fairly large oil sump, if you can keep the soot % down you may be able to to 15k. I've seen M1 TDT 5w40 (which is also GRP III) go to 15k in a TDI, it thickened by 10% and the TBN was 3 but was still acceptable. I wouldn't push any G III lube past 15k. Another option is the Philipps 66 Triton 5w40. It's 40% PAO so maybe good to 20k with oil analysis and good soot control.
 

HighbrowHillbill

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Originally Posted by JHZR2
Wait, theyre going to sell a wrangler Diesel?!?
That's what I said!
Originally Posted by Rand
after the Ram ecodiesel oil fiasco Can you apprise me of this fiasco?, I would take notes on what they are now using. You think their recommendation of an MS-12991 oil, trumps their requirement of an SN rated oil? Or are we just reading that statement differently?
Originally Posted by JHZR2
Wait, theyre going to sell a wrangler Diesel?!?
yes IIRC is a $5000+ option(maybe more depending on other options) and makes the front end very heavy. I am not sold on it but its pretty nice. I'd rather their newly developed inline 6 gasser with a turbo.
As to the price of the diesel on our little proposal doc here it says $4000 MSRP for the diesel. The invoice price for that option was $3560 and we were a few percent under invoice. Then the manual was $2000 MSRP and $1780 invoice. The $6000 price tag you may have heard mentioned really only apply's to anyone who would have preferred the manual (no uncharge on those). To my knowledge they make everyone pay the entry fee to get the 8spd auto. So it's little bit disingenuous when people say it's a $6000 option. A little, I mean if you pay MSRP and want a diesel it's gonna cost ya 6 grand so grin
 

HighbrowHillbill

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Originally Posted by CleverUserName
I don't see the point of an oil analysis when you take delivery. I would change it early, like at 1500 miles and then do a 2nd change at 5000 miles. Hopefully this new version of the Eco-diesel has all of the kinks and engineering shortcomings corrected. I would never consider buying anything with than engine made in 2014-2019. The new Delvac ESP 5w40 is primarily GRP III so it will not hold up like the original stuff. The 3.0 has a fairly large oil sump, if you can keep the soot % down you may be able to to 15k. I've seen M1 TDT 5w40 (which is also GRP III) go to 15k in a TDI, it thickened by 10% and the TBN was 3 but was still acceptable. I wouldn't push any G III lube past 15k. Another option is the Philipps 66 Triton 5w40. It's 40% PAO so maybe good to 20k with oil analysis and good soot control.
I guess I thought getting an eye on how the factory fill was doing would be a good idea. But maybe it doesn't matter and I should just skip those completely? I'm thinking this little factory filter might need help getting through to a stretched out OCI and that's where the bypass filtration would come into play. But I don't want to waste a bunch of money on the filtration setup if fuel dilution is going to get me anyway? [Linked Image from s3.amazonaws.com]
 
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Originally Posted by HighbrowHillbill
Originally Posted by CleverUserName
I don't see the point of an oil analysis when you take delivery. I would change it early, like at 1500 miles and then do a 2nd change at 5000 miles. Hopefully this new version of the Eco-diesel has all of the kinks and engineering shortcomings corrected. I would never consider buying anything with than engine made in 2014-2019. The new Delvac ESP 5w40 is primarily GRP III so it will not hold up like the original stuff. The 3.0 has a fairly large oil sump, if you can keep the soot % down you may be able to to 15k. I've seen M1 TDT 5w40 (which is also GRP III) go to 15k in a TDI, it thickened by 10% and the TBN was 3 but was still acceptable. I wouldn't push any G III lube past 15k. Another option is the Philipps 66 Triton 5w40. It's 40% PAO so maybe good to 20k with oil analysis and good soot control.
I guess I thought getting an eye on how the factory fill was doing would be a good idea. But maybe it doesn't matter and I should just skip those completely? I'm thinking this little factory filter might need help getting through to a stretched out OCI and that's where the bypass filtration would come into play. But I don't want to waste a bunch of money on the filtration setup if fuel dilution is going to get me anyway? [Linked Image from s3.amazonaws.com]
That engine has a big oil sump. It's actually bigger than a 6.6 Duramax sump. The 3.0 also uses a 7th injector for DPF Regen so FD in such a large sump shouldn't be an issue, HOWEVER this is a new engine. I'd get an oil analysis at 5k from a company that accurately measures fuel and soot % (not blackstone) and continue from there based on the results. You can also cut open the filter media and see how loaded it is at 5k if you are concerned about it. Neodium Magnetic drain plugs are also a great upgrade for less than $20. It will also catch any larger ferrous particles which would end up in the filter media
 

HighbrowHillbill

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Originally Posted by CleverUserName
Originally Posted by HighbrowHillbill
Originally Posted by CleverUserName
I don't see the point of an oil analysis when you take delivery. I would change it early, like at 1500 miles and then do a 2nd change at 5000 miles. Hopefully this new version of the Eco-diesel has all of the kinks and engineering shortcomings corrected. I would never consider buying anything with than engine made in 2014-2019. The new Delvac ESP 5w40 is primarily GRP III so it will not hold up like the original stuff. The 3.0 has a fairly large oil sump, if you can keep the soot % down you may be able to to 15k. I've seen M1 TDT 5w40 (which is also GRP III) go to 15k in a TDI, it thickened by 10% and the TBN was 3 but was still acceptable. I wouldn't push any G III lube past 15k. Another option is the Philipps 66 Triton 5w40. It's 40% PAO so maybe good to 20k with oil analysis and good soot control.
I guess I thought getting an eye on how the factory fill was doing would be a good idea. But maybe it doesn't matter and I should just skip those completely? I'm thinking this little factory filter might need help getting through to a stretched out OCI and that's where the bypass filtration would come into play. But I don't want to waste a bunch of money on the filtration setup if fuel dilution is going to get me anyway?
That engine has a big oil sump. It's actually bigger than a 6.6 Duramax sump. The 3.0 also uses a 7th injector for DPF Regen so FD in such a large sump shouldn't be an issue, HOWEVER this is a new engine. I'd get an oil analysis at 5k from a company that accurately measures fuel and soot % (not blackstone) and continue from there based on the results. You can also cut open the filter media and see how loaded it is at 5k if you are concerned about it. Neodium Magnetic drain plugs are also a great upgrade for less than $20. It will also catch any larger ferrous particles which would end up in the filter media
Thanks for the good idea's. Who should I use to get fuel dilution and soot?
 
Last edited:
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Originally Posted by HighbrowHillbill
Originally Posted by CleverUserName
Originally Posted by HighbrowHillbill
Originally Posted by CleverUserName
I don't see the point of an oil analysis when you take delivery. I would change it early, like at 1500 miles and then do a 2nd change at 5000 miles. Hopefully this new version of the Eco-diesel has all of the kinks and engineering shortcomings corrected. I would never consider buying anything with than engine made in 2014-2019. The new Delvac ESP 5w40 is primarily GRP III so it will not hold up like the original stuff. The 3.0 has a fairly large oil sump, if you can keep the soot % down you may be able to to 15k. I've seen M1 TDT 5w40 (which is also GRP III) go to 15k in a TDI, it thickened by 10% and the TBN was 3 but was still acceptable. I wouldn't push any G III lube past 15k. Another option is the Philipps 66 Triton 5w40. It's 40% PAO so maybe good to 20k with oil analysis and good soot control.
I guess I thought getting an eye on how the factory fill was doing would be a good idea. But maybe it doesn't matter and I should just skip those completely? I'm thinking this little factory filter might need help getting through to a stretched out OCI and that's where the bypass filtration would come into play. But I don't want to waste a bunch of money on the filtration setup if fuel dilution is going to get me anyway?
That engine has a big oil sump. It's actually bigger than a 6.6 Duramax sump. The 3.0 also uses a 7th injector for DPF Regen so FD in such a large sump shouldn't be an issue, HOWEVER this is a new engine. I'd get an oil analysis at 5k from a company that accurately measures fuel and soot % (not blackstone) and continue from there based on the results. You can also cut open the filter media and see how loaded it is at 5k if you are concerned about it. Neodium Magnetic drain plugs are also a great upgrade for less than $20. It will also catch any larger ferrous particles which would end up in the filter media
Thanks for the good idea's. Who should I use to get fuel dilution and soot?
Oil Analyzers aka Polaris includes FD and soot. You can order the test kits from Amsoil, get 4 UPS prepaid kits for free delivery. Pablo on here can hook you up with better pricing if you send him a message.
 

HighbrowHillbill

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Originally Posted by Danno
Not sure why using a non-compliant spec engine oil on a brand new in warranty "expensive" vehicle. But, as always, your decision.
Show me how you read this, please.
Quote
We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such as Mopar or Pennzoil Platinum Euro that meets FCA Material Standard MS-12991 and the API SN engine oil category is required
I read it as *We recommend you use 5w-40 synthetic engine oil such as Mopar or Pennzoil Platinum Euro that meets FCA Material Standard MS-12991* <<< that was a recommendation and I think you get the next part here *the API SN engine oil category is required* I don't know if you don't understand the context or what? Part of this is a recommendation part of it is a requirement....... Otherwise they could have stated *We require you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such as Mopar or Pennzoil Platinum Euro that meets FCA Material Standard MS-12991 and the API SN engine oil category*
 

HighbrowHillbill

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Originally Posted by CleverUserName
Don't they (FCA) have to provide you with free oil if it's "required" to maintain warranty coverage?
That's the rumor I'm seeing around here. I've just run across a lot of people freaking out about trying to source this $40 a gallon oil. From reading that Supplement, I don't see why they aren't just looking for a 5W-40 SN oil, that says it is low ash, DPF, and emissions compatible? But I'm sure they will also try to tell me I need to use the oil filter from the Mopar box. $40-50 instead of one that is most likely the exact same quality or literally from the same batch and just marked up less and sold by a different supplier. I was on rock auto just now: $3.55 for a cheapie $15.27 for the comfort a WIX branded item would give me $36.79 for the Mopar...... Now I'm just [censored] and moaning, but it seemed relevant.
 
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I'd use the OEM filter. $40 is outrageous for a cellulose cartridge filter but every 10k isn't a big deal. This MS-12991 spec looks like a European mid-saps C3 type 5w40. That's different than the previous ED 3.0 which got CJ-4. It also looks like the oil sump is now smaller. From 10.5 quarts to 8.5 on the new ED 1500 I'd use the Delvac ESP or Triton in it and skip the C3 oils.
 

HighbrowHillbill

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Originally Posted by CleverUserName
I'd use the OEM filter. $40 is outrageous for a cellulose cartridge filter but every 10k isn't a big deal. This MS-12991 spec looks like a European mid-saps C3 type 5w40. That's different than the previous ED 3.0 which got CJ-4. It also looks like the oil sump is now smaller. From 10.5 quarts to 8.5 on the new ED 1500 I'd use the Delvac ESP or Triton in it and skip the C3 oils.
I came up with the $40-50 figure using a part number for a ram ecodiesel as I was having trouble finding the oil filter listed for a 2020 Wrangler Diesel. Found it 68498720AA $60-70.......WOW....... I stumbled across it because a website specifically stated the old part number would not work on the ecodiesel Wrangler. Would you pay $60 plus shipping for a nothing special filter every 10k miles? If this oil even lasts that long.
 
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Originally Posted by HighbrowHillbill
Originally Posted by CleverUserName
I'd use the OEM filter. $40 is outrageous for a cellulose cartridge filter but every 10k isn't a big deal. This MS-12991 spec looks like a European mid-saps C3 type 5w40. That's different than the previous ED 3.0 which got CJ-4. It also looks like the oil sump is now smaller. From 10.5 quarts to 8.5 on the new ED 1500 I'd use the Delvac ESP or Triton in it and skip the C3 oils.
I came up with the $40-50 figure using a part number for a ram ecodiesel as I was having trouble finding the oil filter listed for a 2020 Wrangler Diesel. Found it 68498720AA $60-70.......WOW....... I stumbled across it because a website specifically stated the old part number would not work on the ecodiesel Wrangler. Would you pay $60 plus shipping for a nothing special filter every 10k miles? If this oil even lasts that long.
I'd pay the price for the OEM filter while under Powertrain warranty. I use the Delvac with OEM filter. I was considering buying one of the 1500 ecodiesels in 2017 because they were heavily discounted. But I read about all the engine failures with the 3.0 and decided against it and got a Canyon CCLB 2.8 Duramax 4x4. It was more expensive than a similarly equipped 1500 Ecodiesel but it has been trouble free for me. OEM oil filters are $12 too. Considering the sordid past of the 3.0 ED I'd be doing as much as possible to be compliant with the warranty and document everything to CYA.
 
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Pennzoil Euro 5W-40 has the MS-12991 certification, And Pennzoil Euro 0W-40 has the same add pack as the 5W-40, but no MS-12991.... Pennzoil Euro 0W-40 can be found at Maul-Mart... Careful, there is an SRT version chock full of Moly, you do NOT want that
 
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