JC Higgens Model 60 Shotgun Help

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Here's a frame screw from a revolver that I re-blued with Perma Blue paste. I sanded down the whole head and slot to shinny bare metal and cleaned it with 99% IPA before cold bluing. Think I applied Perma Blue 4 or 5 times and left it on for ~5 minutes each time before removing for the next application. It came out pretty dark.

Not referencing you specifically but you did post an example pic people can see but on cold bluing in general.

A lot of the "cold blue" performance has to do with the steel composition and hardness ( that's where some of the red and purple comes from). It isn't always easy to determine this and sparking is more holistic than an actual cook book in terms of reactance. Some metals simply wont take it well at all.

Also, these formulations are barely 5% of the hot tank counterpart ( but they also don't carry all the danger or damage potential either)

clean it, heat it and layer it for overall best performance

Just FYI
 

ZeeOSix

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^^^ For what I use it for (re-bluing small parts mostly) it works pretty well. If the steel is reluctant to take on a chemical reaction I usually just keep applying more applications and leaving it on longer and it typically turns out acceptable. I certainly wouldn't use it to to re-blue a whole gun. In 30 years of use it's worked pretty well for me 95% of the time. I'm still using the same tube of Prema Blue I bought decades ago. The screw I re-blued in the photo was done a few months ago with that decades old tube of Perma Blue. I'd say that's a pretty good ROI for a tube of Perma Blue I probably paid $3 or $4 for and used it on many small parts. Have even used it to touch up small scratches/gouges that are down to the bare metal on blued surfaces if done carefully (apply with a sharp toothpick or similar to control area application).

If the OP want's to re-blue the area that he reworked on the new part I'd say Perma Blue would be a good way to go to protect that bare metal from future corrosion, especially if that area isn't visible when the part is installed and it doesn't match perfectly with the original finish. Way cheaper DIY method than any other option.
 
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Sierra048

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Thought I would give you an update since you were so kind in trying to help me. I was able to spend some time on it yesterday and I think I've got it to where it needs be to function correctly. I was trying to get it done before tomorrow so I could take it and cycle some rounds through it before I gave it to my son. Won't be able to do much, if any, today with Dr. appointments eating up the day and I need to pick up some Perma Blue solution as well. One question, do I have to take the whole action bar down to bare metal or can I just blue the area that I had to remove some metal from? Again, I just want to protect the metal from rusting as best I can and 95% of the area will be internal and not visible unless the gun is broken down for heavy cleaning.
 

ZeeOSix

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Thought I would give you an update since you were so kind in trying to help me. I was able to spend some time on it yesterday and I think I've got it to where it needs be to function correctly. I was trying to get it done before tomorrow so I could take it and cycle some rounds through it before I gave it to my son. Won't be able to do much, if any, today with Dr. appointments eating up the day and I need to pick up some Perma Blue solution as well. One question, do I have to take the whole action bar down to bare metal or can I just blue the area that I had to remove some metal from? Again, I just want to protect the metal from rusting as best I can and 95% of the area will be internal and not visible unless the gun is broken down for heavy cleaning.

Just clean the bare metal areas with Isopropyl Alcohol and then apply the Prema Blue with a Q-tip to the bare metal area. Leave it on for 5 minutes and remove it. Repeat until you get the desired blued finish. Treat the part with some gun oil of your preference and you're done.
 
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One question, do I have to take the whole action bar down to bare metal or can I just blue the area that I had to remove some metal from? Again, I just want to protect the metal from rusting as best I can and 95% of the area will be internal and not visible unless the gun is broken down for heavy cleaning.

Just touch up the shiny stuff.

Personally I would wait on that until he puts about 2 boxes through it before touching up for the following reasons.

It wont hurt anything and you will likely go through the exercise several times.

The force of firing will make it "wear in" possibly at other areas as well ( and scrape off your fresh touch up) than manually cycling wont stress the same way.

Give you both a reason to go shooting.
 

Sierra048

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Just touch up the shiny stuff.

Personally I would wait on that until he puts about 2 boxes through it before touching up for the following reasons.

It wont hurt anything and you will likely go through the exercise several times.

The force of firing will make it "wear in" possibly at other areas as well ( and scrape off your fresh touch up) than manually cycling wont stress the same way.

Give you both a reason to go shooting.
Had a busy couple of days but was able to get the action bar blued. I wasn't really impressed with the Perma Blue that I used and I followed the directions to the letter. In the end it was certainly better than leaving the metal bare. I put the shotgun back together yesterday after giving it one final cleaning. Took it up into the woods above our cabin and put five rounds of 00 buck shot through it. Everything worked fine. Five shots in roughly five seconds. I'm satisfied that the gun is functional and I am comfortable passing it down to my son. This project started out being a huge pain but with your guidance and suggestions it ended up being a rewarding challenge. I can't tell you how grateful I am for the help you provided. Please accept my humble gratitude.
 

ZeeOSix

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Had a busy couple of days but was able to get the action bar blued. I wasn't really impressed with the Perma Blue that I used and I followed the directions to the letter. In the end it was certainly better than leaving the metal bare.

My experience with Perma Blue paste is that you need to leave it on way longer than the directions say. And repeat applications until you get the amount of bluing you desire. Could be that metal part wouldn't take well to any cold bluing product depending on its composition.
 
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I wasn't really impressed with the Perma Blue that I used and I followed the directions to the letter. In the end it was certainly better than leaving the metal bare.

Very welcome, glad to help a fellow gun owner.

Remember, cold blue is basically a copper based oxidation ( layer of paint basically) nowhere near a hot blue and is subject to any number of issues. Any of which will affect the end result and most are beyond the ability to detect in the field.
 
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