jack adapter pad

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
Originally Posted By: Trav
Cut a hockey puck to the required depth.
I did but without the proper tools, the procedure is a nightmare!


Originally Posted By: JHZR2
What is the right depth? To allow the pinch weld to bottom out and some mass transfer to the surrounding area, or just enough to keep the weld in place when jacking it up?


Thats why i think a piece of square wood is better you can run it through the table saw. I'd just measure the pinch weld and add 1/4 or so for the wood to compress. Dry oak should not compress much but softer wood might. I'd make the slot across the grain , to avoid splitting.

Or screw the hocky puck to a square piece of wood temporarily and use that to run against the rip fence. Just be aware of how you orient the screws so they don't hit the blade.

 

[doitmyself]

- Spasm3, you didn't answer JHZR2's question.

- And, no one ever addresses greasegunn's question: SOME cars are difficult to find both a place to jack it up AND place a jack stand.

First, we need the obligatory "if you don't know how to jack up a vehicle, maybe you shouldn't be doing vehicle repairs".

JHZR2, these links to the Figs Jack Jaw state: "NOTICE: Weight is supported in the center of the channel not the top of the block. If for any reason this is not the case during installation please contact FIGS for a shim kit."

http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=188
http://my.is/forums/f174/new-product-figs-jack-jaw-frame-rail-armor-455409/

JHZR2, my thoughts are probably in line with yours.....the slot should be deep enough to just barely (if at all) touch the flat areas next to the pinch weld to prevent the pinch weld from bending.

And, to repeat, on SOME cars it is a challenge to find both a floor jack point AND a jack stand point at the same time.

 

[doitmyself]

LOL, this Protec model shows the opposite of above regarding slot depth:

Never a resting moment for those with OCD.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
What is the right depth? To allow the pinch weld to bottom out and some mass transfer to the surrounding area, or just enough to keep the weld in place when jacking it up?


There is no concrete answer to this question. This information comes from doing dozens of rocket panel repair and replacements.
Some cars use reinforced areas on the rocker panels that goes all the way up the inside of the rocker panel to the door sill and double wall where it connect in the rear of the rocker.

This area is usually boxed construction of heavier gauge steel with an extra lip in those 2 areas in the middle of the inner and outer rocker panel sheet metal, it also supports the rocker panel exterior skin.
There is usually a cut out to fit the cars OE jack. Heavier vehicles like large FWD cars and vans (your Honda van uses this construction) have this type. It is best to lift by the lip only although panel contact in the area around it usually causes no distress to the outer panel.
Never use the lip to lift or support outside of this area, the rocker can be easily damaged.

On some lighter cars the middle supporting strip is just a piece of heavier gauge stock sandwiched between the inner and outer about 8 inches long and spot welded to the inner rocker panel, lifting this by anything other than just the lip can damage the skin.

Many Euro cars use a tube welded through the subframe rail and go through the rocker panel, this type has no inner reinforcement layer and can be easily damaged using anything on the lip.
I try to use the frame/subframe with a puck or piece of wood to spread the load out.

 

[Donald]

Maybe the best method to determine how to jack at a jack point is to examine the supplied jack and try and mimic how it lifts at the jack point. (Besides asking Trav).

 

[Quattro Pete]

This is what I used on my old Audi A4 to get around the pinch weld:

http://www.automotivepartsfactory.com/p/...d-33307863.html

It worked well. You can probably find it cheaper somewhere else, like ebay.

 

[sciphi]

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
This is what I used on my old Audi A4 to get around the pinch weld:

http://www.automotivepartsfactory.com/p/...d-33307863.html

It worked well. You can probably find it cheaper somewhere else, like ebay.



Or find two hockey pucks, screw them together, and cut a slit down the middle. Shouldn't cost much.

 

[zzyzzx]

Originally Posted By: philipp10
I use a piece of hard wood with a slot cut into it.


I can confirm that a regular pine 2" x 4" with a slot cut in it will break. Hardwood has got to work better.

 

[zzyzzx]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Cut a hockey puck to the required depth.


Hockey pucks are much cheaper too, as per Amazon's people viewing this item also viewed section.