I’ve been driving CR-Vs

These maintance items are similar on other brands IF you want them to be reliable. Many people don't do maintance and end up with vehicles that are not reliable.

Honda makes vehicles that can go 250,000 miles or more if maintained.

After 100,000 miles, being good to go another 100,000 after being maintained is saying a lot about a vehicle.

You pays your money and makes your choice. Parts wear out on all vehicles. If you want reliabality get a Honda or Toyota. Both require routine maintance if you want them to be very reliable vehicles.

Many other brands don't have another 100,000 miles left in them after the first 100,000, even if you maintain them.
 
Thanks for this, it’s just another reason why this site is so useful. I ran the VIN on the Honda recall site and it turns out the recall wasn’t done but is still active.
Don't even consider it. The recall is just a band aid, does not fix the problem. But there is a bulletin that says if you got it fixed on your own before the inspection then they are supposed to pay for it. Look for cars that were never in the rust belt of the country.
And yes there are AC compressor clutch issues on the early 3rd gens, and a few other things, but most all cars and trucks have issues.
 
While Honda's do require valve adjustments every 100 K, and their 6 cylinders have cam rubber toothed belts that need replaced every 100 K because they are an interferance engine, and cvt fluid change every 30 K, first rear end fluid ( if it's AWD ), 15 K to 20 K and then about every 30 K + / - depending on severity of use. Toyota's with AWD have the transfer case seperate from the trany and they require a different fluid. And getting the fluid level correct when filling a Toyota trany is a royal pain.

As for the rest such as sparkplugs, serpentine, tensioner, water-pump, thermostat, hoses and clamps, radiator, filters, sensors, alignment, wiper inserts; these items are common to all ice powered vehicles, and by 100 K are due for replacement.

And again, Honda and Toyota vehicles are good for 250 K if properly maintained. Many other brands are just about ready for the junkyard by 100 K and are not worth going over to prep them for another 100 because the engine, trany, and or the rest of the vehicle, won't last that long.

Most of the other brands problems are well documented. So, if your thinking of one of those, research the history of that vehicle.
 
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You do know that there's a long list of preventative maintance that they need around 100 K miles.

Also, many times when one is for sale with more than 100 K miles, that preventive maintance has not been done.

Some of that stuff can bite you big time, such as resulting in destroying the engine if not done. So if you buy one with 100 K miles or more, you should be ready to do all that is required, and it will be good for another 100 K miles.

Most cities in the US have one Honda dealer who will work with the online Honda parts purchasing system for customers. You save about 40% with that system, and pick up the order at the perticipang dealer.

Around 100 K miles they need valve adjustment ( extremely important, they are solid lifters and the exhaust get tighter on clearance with use, if it gets too tight it burns the valve, ruins the head, and if the melted valve pieces score the cylinder the engine is ruined ). Also, the intakes get loose and the engine cant take in the maximum air resulting in less power. Get double iridium sparkplugs from rock-auto and put them in after adjusting valves. Valve cover gasket, water-pump, thermostat including housing, both coolant temperature sensors engine and Radiator don't mix them up, they look the same, all coolant hoses and clamps, coolant, serpentine and tensioner with idler, both trany filters there's 2 one in the trany and another either above or inline depending on year, be sure you have the O rings if its the above cvt one, trany fluid and drain and overflow crush-washers, rear end fluid and drain and fill crush-washers, clean throttle body and maf and map sensors you'll need the appropriate sprays and a soft cloth ( microfiber is best ) don't overnighter the sensors screws it's only plastic, flush brake fluid. The rubber gasket between the aluminum Radiator core and the Radiator tanks is sealed in place by crimping. Those gaskets go bad between 12 and 15 years of age, so while it's drained is a good time to replace the Radiator, and it's easier to install the new Radiator temperature sensor, also, new Radiator drain petcock and o ring. If it's a 2015 and has not yet had the improved Radiator mounts installed, add those, pcv valve, engine air cleaner, cabin air cleaner, wiper inserts, oem knock sensor ( if it goes bad the engine will lean out the air fuel mix sooooo bad it will ruin the engine ). Clean away paint below battery ground wire mount, clean battery terminals and check battery. Both O2 sensors, after 100 K they are ready to go bad, and if they do it will ruin the catalytic converters ( there are 2 and they ain't cheap, so replace those O2 sensors ) AutoZone usually will lend you the O2 socket.

All in all, your probably looking at the cost of fluids and parts of around $ 2,500 + / - some and that's using the online discount.

About a weeks worth of work for a DIY mechanic. Watch seversl YouTube about each job.

And after 100 K miles they need aligned with a hunter alignment macheine that measures some angles down to 1/100 of a degree. It makes a world of differance in how they drive. If all the front end parts are OK and nothing needs replaced, that will cost you about $100.00 to $150.00 + tax.

Put a bottle if Red-Line SI - 1 in a full gas tank to clean the fuel injectors asap, and run that tank low, and repeat. From then on about every 15 K miles or so another bottle. Amazon sells a 4 pack for the best price.

Have the alignment shop rotate the tires.

After all the above, they are good for another 100 K miles of very low maintance.

These are very reliable vehicles, but they require maintance every 100 K miles.
Believe me when I say I appreciate an aggressive, even excessive maintenance schedule, but this list is simply too much. Many radiators will last 300,000 miles, and with clean and fresh coolant in your car, can’t imagine why you would switch the OEM radiator out. I am also questioning the need to change sensors at this interval, or any interval before failure. They are also, in most cases, good for the car’s lifetime. I am good with all your other suggestions, and with frequent fluid changes. The filters are okay to change. I would avoid all the o rings, which are more likely to cause,rather than remedy, most problems.
 
I highly value reliabality, and also prefer working on my own vehicle if I can. But because I work on it outside, I can't fix things in the winter, so that is additional incentive to replace some aged items.

I also did the common upgrade from the tiny 51R battery, to a large 24F, with more CCA and more reserve capacity. And when that ages out it will get replaced with another Walmart MAXX 24F before it has a no start. Pre-emptive replacement a few months before it dies is cheaper and more reliable than buying and carrying a jump pack.

I know my vehicle is a little over maintained and that cost me extra. I figure I will get that back with reliabality and long life, IF some teenager driving something recklessn does not total my vehicle. In the last 25 years, we had 5 times when someone totaled one or more vehicles on our street. Usually they are teens, sometimes running from police, sometimes on something, sometimes both. Once it was an old man who came out of the local bar so drunk he could hardly stand. He got in a new truck and totaled 2 vehicles, damaged another vehicle, sheared off a telephone pole and damaged a brick wall. Two times our Impala had a door mirror broken off by a moving vehicle, and another time was seriously damaged the entire length on one side when a ball-joint broke on a moving vehicle causing it to hit our parked car.

Some buy a triple A service contract. I spend that on agressive maintence instead.
 
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Some buy a triple A service contract. I spend that on agressive maintence instead.

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Idk if it’s still true, but Honda’s engineering design life at least used to be to reach 400k. My family (mom and dad, brother, sister, etc) had one civic that made it to 350 before the HG blew, and after that was fixed the car just simply came apart - but up until that point it needed a water pump and an alternator. I think I did an amsoil drain/fill on the AT at 100k and 200k miles, and besides that it had dealer oil changes by the book. My family tends to be very good about maintenance, and my brother and I both tend to look out for the others. The family in general drives more conservatively.

My son, conversely, drove his 1.5t civic 6MT so hard that the rings seated and it stopped “making oil!” (Half kidding).
 
Correction, Hondas are not solid lifters, they are overhead cams with rockerarms with adjusters over the valve.

My old school mind is still back in the lifter pushed days when I think about the lack of hydraulic lifters that take up the slack on those old engines.
 
Believe it or not there is 800k+ mile Civics and Accords 1.5 T still on the road with original turbo, trans, engines, and no head gasket issues...
Maintenance and no short tripping is the key.
 
Most cities in the US have one Honda dealer who will work with the online Honda parts purchasing system for customers. You save about 40% with that system, and pick up the order at the perticipang dealer.

Put a bottle if Red-Line SI - 1 in a full gas tank to clean the fuel injectors asap, and run that tank low, and repeat. From then on about every 15 K miles or so another bottle. Amazon sells a 4 pack for the best price.

Nice.

So how would one "find out which dealer" or is that strictly via something like hondapartsonline website ?

As to Redline, not Techron or Berryman B12 ?
 
Nice.

So how would one "find out which dealer" or is that strictly via something like hondapartsonline website ?

As to Redline, not Techron or Berryman B12 ?

Phone your local Honda dealer, talk to the parts department, ask if they participate in any online Honda parts purchasing system where you could purchase honda parts at a cc lower price than at the dealer, and if they say yes, ask for the website name / address. If they say no phone an other Honds dealer and ask there parts department. Or if you are near by, talk to the parts department in person and ask.

If you find one and order online you pay with a credit card.

The website let's you track if the parts are at the dealer.

After the parts are sent to the dealer, you pick them up at the dealer by telling the dealer parts counter person the order number.
 
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