Supertech filters are not always available in the sizes that I need them. In addition, given that Walmart is an additional 10 mi round trip from me, I would have to purchase more than just a single oil filter to justify the increased car operation expenses, which in the big picture, may easily be $0.30/mi.
Also, I have an unproven theory regarding oil filters that I could use some comments on. I personally believe that filtering out the smaller particles is less important, contrary to the opinions of others. I stand by this view as the higher-efficiency, more restrictive filters have a tendency to have a shorter service life, thus possibly allowing bypass mode to occur during the longer drains, and successfully negating your efforts in a quest for finer filtration. In addition, OEMs have always designed filters to have lower efficiency ratings, but with higher-flow and high capacity in mind by using greater amounts of less restrictive media. Thus, I will continue to use filters of the recommended size containing designs allowing for maximum flow and maximum amounts of low restriction media. This leads to my choice of the Supertech E-Core for the 3614 applications and the Fram Extra Guard for the Honda/Acura applications. The Fram Extra Guard does offer significantly more media than the lower-end Champ filters, but the Champs E-Core offers greater flow than the Fram Extra Guard in 3614 apps, which is why I consider it better. Please feel free to disagree and correct my statements.
Vad: I see your point. The warm “fuzzy” feeling of having good quality parts as cheap insurance, is certainly valid reasoning for spending extra $$$ on higher-quality parts, regardless of whether or not they’ll bring you longer engine life. The cheap insurance concept is valid, btw, and I don’t disagree with you there. But there has to be a line drawn, somewhere, between excessive and wasteful and cheap insurance. I chose to draw the line at 10,000 miles/1-yr with the lower-end filters, and 5000 miles/6-mo with conventional oil, and 10,000 miles/1-yr with synthetic oil. That’s my view of cheap insurance. Another person may draw their line at 7500 miles/6-mo for conventional oil, and 12,000 miles/1-yr with synthetic oil. That’s their choice. I prefer a shorter interval, but their plan may not affect overall engine longevity either.
Roger: Using the OEM size is always a given, at least in my book. Don’t know about others.
As for the bypass design, it has been stated by various filter manufacturers that the real-world differences, especially with regards to affecting the overall engine life, are negligible between the threaded-end and dome-ended bypass valves. Lastly the material of the ADBV is a consideration, especially for the longer drains. The silicone ADBV may be beneficial for the extremely long drains, as nitrite tends to harden. OTOH, for drains not exceeding 10,000 miles/1-yr, it logically seems unlikely that a nitrite ADBV would have hardening issues, and I haven’t heard of any reports of nitrite ADBV functionality issues in such a short time frame, at least on BITOG. Of course, Honda does allow for filter changes to be extended to 2-yrs/20,000 miles, and VW/Audi does allow for up to 2-yr/30,000KM intervals, so the silicone ADBV is probably more important to them.
Sxg6: $4 every few months will add up in the long run. Suppose you drive for 50 years, and you follow this practice. Per my calculations, $4*3*50=$600. Think of how long $600 will feed you when you retire, when your monthly check isn’t the same amount as it was before.
quote:
Originally posted by Big O Dave:
Michael, how long did it take you to type this last post?
Not very long.
