Issues with batteries...
- Thread starter mrsilv04
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To all who took issue with the NAPA aka Exide batteries. Just last week, I received the Consumer Reports flyer asking 'which one is better?' This is a promo for their CR mag, of course. It gave the NAPA Performance Select 8465 battery the best deal in new batteries. Last time they had one of the Auto Zone DuraLast batteries as the best buy, IIRC.
I have some time today to play around with this issue.
Here's the list of aftermarket accessories on the truck. XM radio, trailer brake controller, and one of those LED brake/turn light strips that goes under the tailgate.
I unplugged the trailer brake controller at the fuse block, and unplugged the XM radio. They're now both completely off the electrical system. Since the LED strip is nothing but a light, I'm leaving it alone.
I unhooked the negative cable and put a test light in line. I'm getting a pretty bright light, that is pulsing. I took my little multimeter and set it to the 250mA setting (that's as high as it will go) and it is pegging the needle. I am going to find my neighbor and see if he has a multimeter that has a 500mA DC setting.
Anyone know what an acceptable level of parasitic draw is on a truck like this? (2004 Silverado Extended Cab 2WD 5.3).
Is is possible that the radio is doing this? It's a factory radio.
Here's the list of aftermarket accessories on the truck. XM radio, trailer brake controller, and one of those LED brake/turn light strips that goes under the tailgate.
I unplugged the trailer brake controller at the fuse block, and unplugged the XM radio. They're now both completely off the electrical system. Since the LED strip is nothing but a light, I'm leaving it alone.
I unhooked the negative cable and put a test light in line. I'm getting a pretty bright light, that is pulsing. I took my little multimeter and set it to the 250mA setting (that's as high as it will go) and it is pegging the needle. I am going to find my neighbor and see if he has a multimeter that has a 500mA DC setting.
Anyone know what an acceptable level of parasitic draw is on a truck like this? (2004 Silverado Extended Cab 2WD 5.3).
Is is possible that the radio is doing this? It's a factory radio.
Originally Posted By: Eddie
Really sounds like an issue with the vehicle and NOT the battery. Maybe one bad battery or two but, three. I think something maybe deep-cycling the batteries or maybe they are being shaken apart internally.
They're not getting shaken apart unless they're really fragile batteries. This is a 2WD pickup and the worst shaking it would get would be driving across a grass pasture at 10mph. This truck spends 99+% of its time on the same paved roads that everyone else uses, and is never on gravel roads at all.
Really sounds like an issue with the vehicle and NOT the battery. Maybe one bad battery or two but, three. I think something maybe deep-cycling the batteries or maybe they are being shaken apart internally.
They're not getting shaken apart unless they're really fragile batteries. This is a 2WD pickup and the worst shaking it would get would be driving across a grass pasture at 10mph. This truck spends 99+% of its time on the same paved roads that everyone else uses, and is never on gravel roads at all.
The max draw is 25 milliamps (sp).
Maybe an AMP meter would be a better first choice checker. MA meters are easy to destroy.
I've had bad luck with Delco batteries and good luck with Deka batteries (though I had one not-so-good one from them, too).
Yup, a car battery won't take a lot of heavy cycling.
Yup, a car battery won't take a lot of heavy cycling.
Even a Harley doesn't puke a battery that quick from vibration.
[Loose mounts are battery killers, but it takes a year or two in a car.]
I am hearing more and more about Exide batteries being sub standard.
WE use Interstate in the shop, and never had a problem - for many years.
[Loose mounts are battery killers, but it takes a year or two in a car.]
I am hearing more and more about Exide batteries being sub standard.
WE use Interstate in the shop, and never had a problem - for many years.
Originally Posted By: MrCritical
The max draw is 25 milliamps (sp).
I'm WAY beyond that... I'm going to have to find something that will read up to 10 amps.
Any thoughts as to where I should be looking? Or just take it back to the dealer (who blamed it on my unplugged XM radio?)
The max draw is 25 milliamps (sp).
I'm WAY beyond that... I'm going to have to find something that will read up to 10 amps.
Any thoughts as to where I should be looking? Or just take it back to the dealer (who blamed it on my unplugged XM radio?)
OEM on my Subaru was a Johnson battery, and it's still going after 7.5 years since the car was made. I've tried Canadian Tire batteries (exide) in the past and one failed after 8 months and its replacement after 1.5 years. One cell had boiled away half its electrolyte.
Originally Posted By: mrsilv04
Originally Posted By: MrCritical
The max draw is 25 milliamps (sp).
I'm WAY beyond that... I'm going to have to find something that will read up to 10 amps.
Any thoughts as to where I should be looking? Or just take it back to the dealer (who blamed it on my unplugged XM radio?)
You need to let things settle down after you reconnect the battery. Current draw can be a lot higher for a few seconds or longer until the ECU is happy with things and tells everything to go back to sleep.
You can do that by hooking a jumper and your meter is parallel, then removing the jumper after a minute or so.
Originally Posted By: MrCritical
The max draw is 25 milliamps (sp).
I'm WAY beyond that... I'm going to have to find something that will read up to 10 amps.
Any thoughts as to where I should be looking? Or just take it back to the dealer (who blamed it on my unplugged XM radio?)
You need to let things settle down after you reconnect the battery. Current draw can be a lot higher for a few seconds or longer until the ECU is happy with things and tells everything to go back to sleep.
You can do that by hooking a jumper and your meter is parallel, then removing the jumper after a minute or so.
be sure any added accessories go to the fuse block under the hood and not the one in the drivers side of the dash.
Bring your vehicle to a starter/alt. rebuild shop and have them test it out. Some have a scope and can look at the waveform output from the alternator. The output from an alternator (before the bridge) is 3 phase and so 6 diodes are needed in the bridge. One broken can cause problems, but not apparent in the output voltage.
They know alternators and batteries better than AZ or most mechanics who just throw a new one in.
Is it possible (maybe not with today's connectors) someone swapped sense and excite on the connection to the alternator? Sense does not have to be keyed, but excite does. Reverse them and everything works fine but the excite drains your battery when engine is not running. If you feel your alternator when everything is outside temp and its warmer, then the excite probably has power.
They know alternators and batteries better than AZ or most mechanics who just throw a new one in.
Is it possible (maybe not with today's connectors) someone swapped sense and excite on the connection to the alternator? Sense does not have to be keyed, but excite does. Reverse them and everything works fine but the excite drains your battery when engine is not running. If you feel your alternator when everything is outside temp and its warmer, then the excite probably has power.
Go to WalMart...they sell so many batteries (3 year 100% replacement warranty) that they usually never have old stock. They also check your entire charging system included in the price.
The Wal-Mart batteries in this region are made by Exide.
the ones here are the good ones
Set a meter on ten amps, disconnect the negative battery cable and put the meter leads between the battery post and the cable end. You'll read whatever your amp draw is on the meter. Now, start pulling fuses until it stops. Now you've found your draw.
I would go to Sams before Walmart. Same parent company, but better batteries and people installing them.
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