Issues with Ariens 911019

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Hello everyone. I have a 27 year old Ariens 911019 with Tecumseh 5 hp 4 cycle motor. She sat for 20 years without ever being ran. Last fall I had the carburetor either tuned or rebuilt I can't remember. Took it to the neighbor who is a small engine mechanic and he fixed it up and got it running. Runs good. Just has some issues. The main one is when it's cold it takes many many pulls to get it to start up. When it's warm it starts usually on the first pull. This mower had the original Sae 30 oil in it from 27 years ago till yesterday. I drained all the oil that would come out of it but it wasn't much. Maybe about half a cup on a measureing glass. I filled it up to the full mark with fresh Rotella t5 10w30 and drained the fuel out and put fresh 93 octane gas with Stabil marine stabilizer in it. I ordered a new spark plug for it which will be in this afternoon. I'm trying to figure out why it's so hard to start when cold. A few people in Facebook told me it could be a blown head gasket or stucking valves. Others say it's carburetor related. It has a new primer bulb that works great but still I can't get it to start in less then 5 pulls when cold. How can I fix this? Any help is greatly appreciated. Oh P.S I was told to fill the crankcase with Diesel fuel and let it sit for 48 hours and then drain it because this will loosen all the sludge that is probably in the motor. Idk if that's a good idea or not. Also was told to run transmission fluid or seafoam in the oil in it for a few minutes to loosen it up and dump that and refill with oil. Oh when I had it running it also shot a 1 1/2 inch long flame out the muffler and it backfired once or twice. It also has been lightly smoking. Light blue in color and hard to see unless in the sun a certain way.
 
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Easiest way to get it to start in 5 or so pulls is to pour a little gas in the air box so the carb sucks it up and take the air filters out and usually I can get it to fire up in 5 or 6 pulls that way.
 
I like the idea of soaking it with diesel oil...looks like valves are stuck or sludget up so bad that they dont get fully closed (fire from the exhaust...hard start)...

Unscrew valve cover and have a look...
 
Those little engines really aren't all that difficult to work on. If you really want to find out what's wrong, start with compression. You can also take out the spark plug and look in the hole to see what sort of shape the upper end is in. It would not be unusual to see a fair amount of rust in there, which can cause the issues you describe. If it looks clean and compression is good, then move on to the electrical; check the spark-it should be a good, solid, snappy spark and not weakly yellow. If the spark is good, then the problem is probably fuel related. Pull the carb, get a rebuild kit, and fix it right.

Dumping all sorts of stuff into it won't do much good-it's far easier to just diagnose it and fix it correctly in the first place.
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
Spray a 1-2 second shot of ether before pulling the start rope. ed


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That's the easy way!
 
Isint spraying ether into it every time to get it to start gonna end up being bad for the motor and carb? Just curious
 
No....its not a 2stroke engine where ether will wash away 2stroke oil from cylinder wall... And its Lhead engine with low compression...wich will handle bang from ether
 
If it starts up fine after being warmed up, then it's either a choke or primer bulb issue. Or it could be a carb or intake gasket. I have a 1992 Craftsman push mower with a Tecumseh 3.5hp engine, and after rebuilding the carb probably 7-8 years ago, it still starts on the first pull or two. Tecumseh engines are tough and reliable, but the carbs have always been a bit of a pain until you get them straightened out. I've also preferred Tecumseh over Briggs because Tecumseh uses an oil pump instead of the dipper/splash lube on Briggs.

L8R,
Matt
 
Ah gotcha. Didn't know that. Yeah I think my small engine mechanic neighbor rebuilt the carb last year but I can't remember. My dad took it over to his house and he worked on it and got it running good. So some people online have told me it might be a blown head gasket, carb issues, coil, valves, motor could be gummed up really and and valves as well because it had the original 27 year old oil in it till yesterday and when I drained it only about 1 cup on a measuring glass came out of it. It takes 1 1/4 pints and it was about a cup short on oil that came out of the motor. I put fresh oil in and started it and then rechecked it and the fresh oil is black already 5 minutes later and it shouldn't be. I'm thinking about draining it all and filling the crankcase with diesel and pulling the cord a few times to get it up into the valves and through the motor and letting it sit 48 hours and then draining it out and adding fresh oil. Should remove most of the build up. Might have to do it twice but then it should be good. This motor sat for 20 years without being run so it's probably sludge causing all the cold start issues.
 
The higher the octane the more resistance to ignition.
Low compression. Maybe not the full solution but 93 octane is hindering your efforts.
 
Originally Posted By: 555
The higher the octane the more resistance to ignition.
Low compression. Maybe not the full solution but 93 octane is hindering your efforts.


This ^^^^^^^^^^
 
I am no Tecumseh fan,everytime I replaced one with a Briggs engine I haven't been disappointed.They shoot long flames out the pipe,backfire,kick back at the rip cord and like to pop after shutdown.No wonder Tecumseh sold out and the new owner closed them down.Only the strong survive.
 
That surprising because everyone I've talked to and every lawn care company I know has told me to run higher octane fuel in it and not 87. They all have said run either 91 octane ethanol free fuel or 93 octane premium in it. I know that's what your supposed to run in blowers and trimmers and edgers per manufacturer.
 
Not only that but this mower was doing all this on 87 octane fuel as well so I really don't think the fuel has anything to do with the cold start issue it's having to be honest
 
I thought they where still in business. I hear Ariens owns them and still uses there motors on there mowers. I wish I could find a Briggs and Stratton motor that would fit it cause I'd replace it in a heartbeat
 
Originally Posted By: Diesel16
That surprising because everyone I've talked to and every lawn care company I know has told me to run higher octane fuel in it and not 87. They all have said run either 91 octane ethanol free fuel or 93 octane premium in it. I know that's what your supposed to run in blowers and trimmers and edgers per manufacturer.


It was just a thought. I guess we can rule that out.
 
You could buy a whole new mower for what a replacement
engine would cost-assuming you buy new.

Shouldn't need to pull over with diesel fuel in it,
just tip it toward the side with the valves.
A few short oil changes with high quality oil will
go a long way to cleaning out the insides.
the new plug might help some, but the choke system
isn't doing it job, if there is an adjustment for it, check that out.


My 2¢
 
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