It rattles when I shake it and if I suck or blow on the hose end, air flows pretty freely through it. Isn't it not supposed to flow in one of those directions?
Is this PCV valve bad?
- Thread starter atikovi
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If they are cheap enough, I just buy new ones that are OEM within reason. For my car, the price is $5.50.. Plenty cheap enough. I had an experience a month ago when I replaced my PVC valve in an 02 Ford Taurus. The old one rattled also, and seemed to be old but fine. Cleaned it with brake cleaner and re-installed. No change at all with the cars performance which is what I expected. A while later I changed it anyway since its was so cheap and easily accessed. To my Absolute amazement the engine function drastically improved. Idle was smoother, power and mileage was also better. This was a 2002 Ford Taurus with 110k on it, and I was pretty sure the valve was the original. Like I said, I cleaned it with brake cleaner, and it rattled fine, which is what I thought the only function the valve needed to be performing ok. It was the single most improvement I've ever experienced with an auto (aside from misfire and some driveability sensors)
What type of vehicle are you working on? I've never tried to blow through the valve though, like you I think it shouldn't flow in each direction. I'm going to do the google and see if I can find out..
What type of vehicle are you working on? I've never tried to blow through the valve though, like you I think it shouldn't flow in each direction. I'm going to do the google and see if I can find out..
Yes I'll replace it for $8, just wondering if it's supposed to do that. 03 Sequoia.
That's a super nice vehicle you have there. It's one of my top ten on my "wish" list. How many miles on it? How easy is it to access the valve? I haven't worked on a Toyota V8 in years..
It has 503,000 miles. Easy access on top of the valve cover. Screws in. New one isn't much different but flows a little bit better.
Legit 503k? If you don't mind me asking, what major repairs has it needed? If that is the all original engine, you are one hell of an expert at managing its maintenance.
Well, that's what it says,
I have no history on it but assume it has the original engine.
I have no history on it but assume it has the original engine.
I recently replaced the PCV valve on my Accord V6. It was close to $50 (usual Canadian ripoff pricing). Just the same I thought it was important to use the OEM part.
Do these PCV valves clog with just age as well? I'm still using a vintage 1998 one with 72K miles on it and have been wondering if I should change it.
Well the new one does feel less constricted than the old one when sucking on it.
I'd bet they clog with "cool down" cycles; when oil vapor can condense.
Besides accumulation of crud, the spring weakening is another consideration. Hmmm...cheap wire used to make the springs cheaper is likely a weak point.
I changed a 15 year old PCV valve (w/48K) because it was barely moving inside.
No economy to coaxing $8 worth of cleaner through a 15 year old, $6 PCV valve.
A guru on another board said the atmosphere, and subsequent engine vacuum, exist on the same very finite scale such that operational parameters of PCV valves are quite similar.
He didn't mention what occurs during turbo boost situations (positive manifold pressure).
Besides accumulation of crud, the spring weakening is another consideration. Hmmm...cheap wire used to make the springs cheaper is likely a weak point.
I changed a 15 year old PCV valve (w/48K) because it was barely moving inside.
No economy to coaxing $8 worth of cleaner through a 15 year old, $6 PCV valve.
A guru on another board said the atmosphere, and subsequent engine vacuum, exist on the same very finite scale such that operational parameters of PCV valves are quite similar.
He didn't mention what occurs during turbo boost situations (positive manifold pressure).
For $8 I wouldn’t be sucking on any engine parts…
