If i wasn't so cheap I'd love to do a UOA on this mix after say 8-10,000 miles im going to run it.
IS there a any good moly additive
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LOL
I'm probably cheaper than you, so don't look for a UOA from me anytime soon.
I'm probably cheaper than you, so don't look for a UOA from me anytime soon.
I can buy allot of M1 for $30,lol..
My engine seems to be quiter with the Lubro-Moly in there, when I am idling at a light I can barely hear the engine, if my windows are up and I have the AC on then I hear nothing.
I have 900 miles on this OCI with Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20 and a bottle of Lubro-Moly, the oil color still has that greyish green look.
I have 900 miles on this OCI with Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20 and a bottle of Lubro-Moly, the oil color still has that greyish green look.
Originally Posted By: daman
I can buy allot of M1 for $30,lol..
Yes you sure can. It can buy a nice supply of more LM too!
I can buy allot of M1 for $30,lol..
Yes you sure can. It can buy a nice supply of more LM too!
Originally Posted By: c3po
My engine seems to be quiter with the Lubro-Moly in there, when I am idling at a light I can barely hear the engine, if my windows are up and I have the AC on then I hear nothing.
I have 900 miles on this OCI with Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20 and a bottle of Lubro-Moly, the oil color still has that greyish green look.
I now have 2000 miles on the Aerostar with the LM and you can still see the silver color.
My engine seems to be quiter with the Lubro-Moly in there, when I am idling at a light I can barely hear the engine, if my windows are up and I have the AC on then I hear nothing.
I have 900 miles on this OCI with Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20 and a bottle of Lubro-Moly, the oil color still has that greyish green look.
I now have 2000 miles on the Aerostar with the LM and you can still see the silver color.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: daman
I can buy allot of M1 for $30,lol..
Yes you sure can. It can buy a nice supply of more LM too!
That will even cover half of a RL oil change for me!! (on top of which they seem to be ALL over the place, with NO guarantees of accuracy {the UOAs, that is}
)
Originally Posted By: daman
I can buy allot of M1 for $30,lol..
Yes you sure can. It can buy a nice supply of more LM too!
That will even cover half of a RL oil change for me!! (on top of which they seem to be ALL over the place, with NO guarantees of accuracy {the UOAs, that is}
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: daman
Ive just recently added some after having 6 bottles in stash for months,i noticed something but to early to confirm.
this stuff coats well so after the initial bottle i'd say 1 oz per qt is good,a good amount stays in your engine after the drain so full strength is not needed after.
That's the opinion I have too after using it for a little while now. I think an initial treatment of a full bottle followed by 1 ounce/qt is all you'll need.
demarpaint, im sure you will recall i was happy about the way it would stay in the engine. I notice faster starts after Lubro-Mily can, i added half on hot engine then the other half 500 miles later on hot engine, it pours out like Grease.
Well im coming up on OC, and i was about to ask that same question, if a whole can -again - of LM was needed, and i thought for sure the answer would ne No, since i put a whole can in already.
I was thinking half a can. Im looking at can now.. its 10,14 oz.
So one ounce a quart, you say.
?
And surely NOT during the ARX run?
Originally Posted By: daman
Ive just recently added some after having 6 bottles in stash for months,i noticed something but to early to confirm.
this stuff coats well so after the initial bottle i'd say 1 oz per qt is good,a good amount stays in your engine after the drain so full strength is not needed after.
That's the opinion I have too after using it for a little while now. I think an initial treatment of a full bottle followed by 1 ounce/qt is all you'll need.
demarpaint, im sure you will recall i was happy about the way it would stay in the engine. I notice faster starts after Lubro-Mily can, i added half on hot engine then the other half 500 miles later on hot engine, it pours out like Grease.
Well im coming up on OC, and i was about to ask that same question, if a whole can -again - of LM was needed, and i thought for sure the answer would ne No, since i put a whole can in already.
I was thinking half a can. Im looking at can now.. its 10,14 oz.
So one ounce a quart, you say.
And surely NOT during the ARX run?
Last edited:
I surly wouldn't say grease seems like regular visc oil i think someone posted the actual visc is a 30w,and yes 1 oz per qt would be my guess.
Lubro Moly has a lot of Moly and some Boron:
German Castrol is extremely stout on everything except Moly and Boron:
Castrol Syntec 0W-30 (Made in Germany) (aka SLX, GC)
Batch #: M040976ADC1U315019411:32
Lab: Blackstone Laboratories
Sample Date: 10/04/2004
.
TBN: 10.8
.
Aluminum 1
Chromium 0
Iron 2
Copper 0
Lead 0
Tin 0
Molybdenum 0
Nickel 0
Manganese 1
Silver 0
Titanium 0
Potassium 2
Boron 0
Silicon 5
Sodium 1
Calcium 3631
Magnesium 104
Phosphorus 822
Zinc 935
Barium 0
.
Sus Viscosity @210F 66.2 (Should be 58-65)
Flashpoint (F) 440 (Should be >365)
Fuel % -
Antifreeze % -
Water % 0
Insolubles % 0
****************
Match made in heaven?
German Castrol is extremely stout on everything except Moly and Boron:
Castrol Syntec 0W-30 (Made in Germany) (aka SLX, GC)
Batch #: M040976ADC1U315019411:32
Lab: Blackstone Laboratories
Sample Date: 10/04/2004
.
TBN: 10.8
.
Aluminum 1
Chromium 0
Iron 2
Copper 0
Lead 0
Tin 0
Molybdenum 0
Nickel 0
Manganese 1
Silver 0
Titanium 0
Potassium 2
Boron 0
Silicon 5
Sodium 1
Calcium 3631
Magnesium 104
Phosphorus 822
Zinc 935
Barium 0
.
Sus Viscosity @210F 66.2 (Should be 58-65)
Flashpoint (F) 440 (Should be >365)
Fuel % -
Antifreeze % -
Water % 0
Insolubles % 0
****************
Match made in heaven?
Thanks for posting this...
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Thanks for posting this...
No problem.
By the way, I think the VOA I posted for GC was the "Green" formula. I've read where the newer "Gold" formula has 50% of the calcium but 600% of the Magnesium.
Other VOAs that are comparatively light on Calcium but heavy on Magnesium include Motul 300V and Royal Purple.
Even so, the "Gold" GC formula has no Boron or Moly and Lubro Moly Mos2 would appear to be a nice complementary additive for GC.
Thanks for posting this...
No problem.
By the way, I think the VOA I posted for GC was the "Green" formula. I've read where the newer "Gold" formula has 50% of the calcium but 600% of the Magnesium.
Other VOAs that are comparatively light on Calcium but heavy on Magnesium include Motul 300V and Royal Purple.
Even so, the "Gold" GC formula has no Boron or Moly and Lubro Moly Mos2 would appear to be a nice complementary additive for GC.
Originally Posted By: CougarRed
Even so, the "Gold" GC formula has no Boron or Moly and Lubro Moly Mos2 would appear to be a nice complementary additive for GC.
Did the "Green" (have any boron or moly in it)??
Was that Oct. 2004 sample green or gold?
Even so, the "Gold" GC formula has no Boron or Moly and Lubro Moly Mos2 would appear to be a nice complementary additive for GC.
Did the "Green" (have any boron or moly in it)??
Was that Oct. 2004 sample green or gold?
Originally Posted By: CougarRed
Lubro Moly has a lot of Moly and some Boron:
Yep nice 30w
Lubro Moly has a lot of Moly and some Boron:
Yep nice 30w
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: CougarRed
Even so, the "Gold" GC formula has no Boron or Moly and Lubro Moly Mos2 would appear to be a nice complementary additive for GC.
Did the "Green" (have any boron or moly in it)??
Was that Oct. 2004 sample green or gold?
Oct. 2004 sample was old green formula with lots of calcium.
The new gold formula has less calcium and lots more magnesium.
Neither one has any moly or boron.
Originally Posted By: CougarRed
Even so, the "Gold" GC formula has no Boron or Moly and Lubro Moly Mos2 would appear to be a nice complementary additive for GC.
Did the "Green" (have any boron or moly in it)??
Was that Oct. 2004 sample green or gold?
Oct. 2004 sample was old green formula with lots of calcium.
The new gold formula has less calcium and lots more magnesium.
Neither one has any moly or boron.
I really like Schaeffers Moly 132... not really much moly in it, but a good shot of antimony (like moly) and really quiets down and smooths out a high mileage engine. Also cuts oil consumption down, if that is an issue. I only use half a bottle (pint) in smaller engines sometimes or in winter unless a large sump like 7/8 qts. or more. Price is less than $5/pint bottle, so not too pricey.
Originally Posted By: bmwtechguy
I really like Schaeffers Moly 132... not really much moly in it, but a good shot of antimony (like moly) and really quiets down and smooths out a high mileage engine. Also cuts oil consumption down, if that is an issue. I only use half a bottle (pint) in smaller engines sometimes or in winter unless a large sump like 7/8 qts. or more. Price is less than $5/pint bottle, so not too pricey.
From what I have read from MolaKule and Terry (Dyson)'s postings, Schaeffer's #132 is an excellent product. In addition to its additive pack, it apparently boosts and stabilizes viscosity. So it's perfect for thin oils in engines that run hot and tend to shear those oils out of grade. Like my G37.
I am going to try the Mola-Brew at my next oil change. 5 ounces Schaeffer's #132 & 2 ounces of Lube Control. I am going to use Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 for my oil. I'll add 2 ounces of LC every 1000 miles.
I'll run it for 5K miles and get an UOA. I'll probably run PP + Mola-Brew for 3 consecutive UOAs to get a baseline and for trend-spotting.
I really like Schaeffers Moly 132... not really much moly in it, but a good shot of antimony (like moly) and really quiets down and smooths out a high mileage engine. Also cuts oil consumption down, if that is an issue. I only use half a bottle (pint) in smaller engines sometimes or in winter unless a large sump like 7/8 qts. or more. Price is less than $5/pint bottle, so not too pricey.
From what I have read from MolaKule and Terry (Dyson)'s postings, Schaeffer's #132 is an excellent product. In addition to its additive pack, it apparently boosts and stabilizes viscosity. So it's perfect for thin oils in engines that run hot and tend to shear those oils out of grade. Like my G37.
I am going to try the Mola-Brew at my next oil change. 5 ounces Schaeffer's #132 & 2 ounces of Lube Control. I am going to use Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 for my oil. I'll add 2 ounces of LC every 1000 miles.
I'll run it for 5K miles and get an UOA. I'll probably run PP + Mola-Brew for 3 consecutive UOAs to get a baseline and for trend-spotting.
Sounds good. I like #132 as well. It will be interesting to see the UOA report.
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