Is Royal purple worth the extra $$?

[deven]

Originally Posted By: rockydee
Originally Posted By: deven
I am just wondering why 90% of the people here use Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, Pennzoil Platinum Pure Plus, or any group III synthetic when we all know that all their vehicles will run fine on Pennzoil conventional, Mobil 5000, or any other conventional oil that will most likely give them 300+ thousand miles of joy. Heck in most cases you could use conventional and go 7,500 miles easy so folks no need to pay more for synthetic oil!
As people here say for oil "As thin as possible and as thick as necessary" it should be the same with buying oil, "As cheap as possible and only as expensive as necessary"


You're kidding, right?

Lets compare apples to apples. Comparing syn to dino is not an apples to apples comparison. Lets compare synthetics to synthetics instead. When the RP loyalists can prove RP is better than any of the other oils you mentioned, you might swing some of us over. Otherwise its a value thing and for the typically higher price RP sells for there's no value to us. That in a nutshell is why this thread hasn't died yet. Show us the proof it's better.-RD

I am not comparing conventional oil to synthetic oil. People are saying that why waste money on RP if a Group III synthetic costs less and will get you 300,000 miles just as fine. What I am saying is that why use synthetic oil and justify spending $25 on M1 when a jug of Mobil 5000 at $15 will also get you to 300,000 just fine in most cases as well.

 

[rockydee]

Originally Posted By: deven
Originally Posted By: rockydee
Originally Posted By: deven
I am just wondering why 90% of the people here use Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, Pennzoil Platinum Pure Plus, or any group III synthetic when we all know that all their vehicles will run fine on Pennzoil conventional, Mobil 5000, or any other conventional oil that will most likely give them 300+ thousand miles of joy. Heck in most cases you could use conventional and go 7,500 miles easy so folks no need to pay more for synthetic oil!
As people here say for oil "As thin as possible and as thick as necessary" it should be the same with buying oil, "As cheap as possible and only as expensive as necessary"


You're kidding, right?

Lets compare apples to apples. Comparing syn to dino is not an apples to apples comparison. Lets compare synthetics to synthetics instead. When the RP loyalists can prove RP is better than any of the other oils you mentioned, you might swing some of us over. Otherwise its a value thing and for the typically higher price RP sells for there's no value to us. That in a nutshell is why this thread hasn't died yet. Show us the proof it's better.-RD

I am not comparing conventional oil to synthetic oil. People are saying that why waste money on RP if a Group III synthetic costs less and will get you 300,000 miles just as fine. What I am saying is that why use synthetic oil and justify spending $25 on M1 when a jug of Mobil 5000 at $15 will also get you to 300,000 just fine in most cases as well.


Why use RP when a $25 jug of Mob1 is just as good or even better than RP and a lot cheaper? The thread is about RP oil isn't it? All I want is proof RP is better and worth the extra scratch. So far no one has come up with it.-RD

 

[Nick1994]

Originally Posted By: rockydee
Originally Posted By: deven
Originally Posted By: rockydee
Originally Posted By: deven
I am just wondering why 90% of the people here use Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, Pennzoil Platinum Pure Plus, or any group III synthetic when we all know that all their vehicles will run fine on Pennzoil conventional, Mobil 5000, or any other conventional oil that will most likely give them 300+ thousand miles of joy. Heck in most cases you could use conventional and go 7,500 miles easy so folks no need to pay more for synthetic oil!
As people here say for oil "As thin as possible and as thick as necessary" it should be the same with buying oil, "As cheap as possible and only as expensive as necessary"


You're kidding, right?

Lets compare apples to apples. Comparing syn to dino is not an apples to apples comparison. Lets compare synthetics to synthetics instead. When the RP loyalists can prove RP is better than any of the other oils you mentioned, you might swing some of us over. Otherwise its a value thing and for the typically higher price RP sells for there's no value to us. That in a nutshell is why this thread hasn't died yet. Show us the proof it's better.-RD

I am not comparing conventional oil to synthetic oil. People are saying that why waste money on RP if a Group III synthetic costs less and will get you 300,000 miles just as fine. What I am saying is that why use synthetic oil and justify spending $25 on M1 when a jug of Mobil 5000 at $15 will also get you to 300,000 just fine in most cases as well.


Why use RP when a $25 jug of Mob1 is just as good or even better than RP and a lot cheaper? The thread is about RP oil isn't it? All I want is proof RP is better and worth the extra scratch. So far no one has come up with it.-RD
+1

I think the title of this thread should be "Is Royal Purple worth the extra hoops to jump through & $??"

If I could find Royal Purple easy to find without hunting down through websites, paying shipping and waiting for it and it would be about $25 for 5 quarts I'd definately try it out, but I've never seen it cheap or easy to find so I go with its competitors.

 

[FutureDoc]

Originally Posted By: deven
I am just wondering why 90% of the people here use Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, Pennzoil Platinum Pure Plus, or any group III synthetic when we all know that all their vehicles will run fine on Pennzoil conventional, Mobil 5000, or any other conventional oil that will most likely give them 300+ thousand miles of joy. Heck in most cases you could use conventional and go 7,500 miles easy so folks no need to pay more for synthetic oil!
As people here say for oil "As thin as possible and as thick as necessary" it should be the same with buying oil, "As cheap as possible and only as expensive as necessary"


I don't think it is 90%. Lot of Conv-users.

I agree... but then again, it comes down to requirements and extended drain needs. Unless a vehicle requires Syn or you can do 12K+ a year, the a quality conventional is definitely on the table IMO. Modern conventionals are darn good especially if you vehicle is older. My fleet is now on a mandated 7,500 interval and thank goodness I can get a syn-blend with a decent add pack on a fleet that does 80% highway miles. Sure, the vehicles are sent to auction at 170-200K but normally it is a transmission or other issue (heck I can't always get approval to change the transmission fluid), not engine/oil issue. Then again, if you can take advantage of an extended drain or must use a 0w20 or Syn, thenthose G3 are useful.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Originally Posted By: deven
I am just wondering why 90% of the people here use Mobil 1, PP, PPPP, or any group III synthetic when we all know that all their vehicles will run fine on Pennzoil conventional, Mobil 5000, or any other conventional oil that will most likely give them 300+ thousand miles of joy. Heck in most cases you could use conventional and go 7,500 miles easy so folks no need to pay more for synthetic oil!
As people here say for oil "As thin as possible and as thick as necessary" it should be the same with buying oil, "As cheap as possible and only as expensive as necessary"

My reasons to use synthetic oil in my LS400 for some OCI's:
I bought it on sale with/without rebate for less than regular price of dino.

I extended OCI to double dino, instead of 6 months I do 12 months with synthetic.

There is a new used oil analysis with more than 20k miles using Mobil 1 0W20 in a Honda Fit. The used oil analysis showed very good result after the oil was used for 20+k miles, I don't think RP can produces much better result than that.

For most engines with non-severe driving condition any off the shelves synthetic is good for up to 10-12k miles OCI or more, no need for boutique oil.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: deven
I am just wondering why 90% of the people here use Mobil 1, PP, PPPP, or any group III synthetic when we all know that all their vehicles will run fine on Pennzoil conventional, Mobil 5000, or any other conventional oil that will most likely give them 300+ thousand miles of joy. Heck in most cases you could use conventional and go 7,500 miles easy so folks no need to pay more for synthetic oil!
As people here say for oil "As thin as possible and as thick as necessary" it should be the same with buying oil, "As cheap as possible and only as expensive as necessary"

My reasons to use synthetic oil in my LS400 for some OCI's:
I bought it on sale with/without rebate for less than regular price of dino.

I extended OCI to double dino, instead of 6 months I do 12 months with synthetic.

There is a new used oil analysis with more than 20k miles using Mobil 1 0W20 in a Honda Fit. The used oil analysis showed very good result after the oil was used for 20+k miles, I don't think RP can produces much better result than that.

For most engines with non-severe driving condition any off the shelves synthetic is good for up to 10-12k miles OCI or more, no need for boutique oil.


Well put, and there's no jumping through hoops or waiting for Royal Purple to go on sale somewhere. When Royal Purple is on sale as often as Mobil 1 and for the same price I might be interested. Someone asked for proof that it's better than its competition, good luck waiting for that to happen.

 

[Al]

Wow..I spent over an hour reading this thread. I marvle at those who toke the time to trash and support RP. At the age of 68 I don't have the luxury of that time.

My opinion:
RP is not primarily a PAO base, its pour point is -45F and even 10cSt PAO is -54F. Lower vis PAO is even lower.

In all the years I have followed BITOG RP has never proven itself to give better used oil analysis than anything else. Didn't even outperform the early cheap Group III syns which had neither moly nor Boron. They only used Sodium as an AW agent.
See the UOA below at 9700 miles. Could RP do better? I think not.

To each his own ..if you like it..buy it. I'll go back to Walmart Pure syn at less than half the price when my stock of free Subaru Syn runs out.

 

[rockydee]

Thanks for posting that Al. It pretty much backs up a lot of the guys posting in this thread are saying here. I'm waiting on proof that RP does better than the cheaper priced competition. I don't see it happening anytime soon. You can take the money you saved and spend it on something you can actually see.-RD

 

[aquariuscsm]

Originally Posted By: Al
Wow..I spent over an hour reading this thread. I marvle at those who toke the time to trash and support RP. At the age of 68 I don't have the luxury of that time.

My opinion:
RP is not primarily a PAO base, its pour point is -45F and even 10cSt PAO is -54F. Lower vis PAO is even lower.

In all the years I have followed BITOG RP has never proven itself to give better used oil analysis than anything else. Didn't even outperform the early cheap Group III syns which had neither moly nor Boron. They only used Sodium as an AW agent.
See the UOA below at 9700 miles. Could RP do better? I think not.

To each his own ..if you like it..buy it. I'll go back to Walmart Pure syn at less than half the price when my stock of free Subaru Syn runs out.


That's an awesome UOA!!

 

[Al]

Originally Posted By: rockydee
Thanks for posting that Al. It pretty much backs up a lot of the guys posting in this thread are saying here. I'm waiting on proof that RP does better than the cheaper priced competition. I don't see it happening anytime soon. You can take the money you saved and spend it on something you can actually see.-RD

In the grand scheme of things, compared to gasoline and the cost of the car , etc. its chump change. If you like the oil use it and be happy.

 

[camrydriver111]

Hope the OP got his answer.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Originally Posted By: Al
In the grand scheme of things, compared to gasoline and the cost of the car , etc. its chump change. If you like the oil use it and be happy.

I agree.

Over the OCI of 11-13k miles my E430 consume about 580-680 gallons premium gasoline, at $3.50/gal the cost of gasoline is $2,000-2,400.

At the same time the cost of 8.5 quarts synthetic oil and a good cartridge oil filter is less than $60-70 which is only 3% of gasoline cost.

Even the boutique oil will not be more than 5% gasoline cost. But is there an oil better than Mobil 1 0W40 at $25-26 5-qt jug at Walmart ? So the question is: why pay more to have less ?

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: Al
In the grand scheme of things, compared to gasoline and the cost of the car , etc. its chump change. If you like the oil use it and be happy.

I agree.

Over the OCI of 11-13k miles my E430 consume about 580-680 gallons premium gasoline, at $3.50/gal the cost of gasoline is $2,000-2,400.

At the same time the cost of 8.5 quarts synthetic oil and a good cartridge oil filter is less than $60-70 which is only 3% of gasoline cost.

Even the boutique oil will not be more than 5% gasoline cost. But is there an oil better than Mobil 1 0W40 at $25-26 5-qt jug at Walmart ? So the question is: why pay more to have less ?




Exactly.
Why pay more for equal or lesser performance.
I like royal purple. Just as I like redline and if I was auto crossing or something I might spend the extra dollar however I'm not.
So why spend more when less will do

 

[dave1251]

Originally Posted By: deven
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Originally Posted By: deven
Here is an email from my colleague Jimmy.


Good afternoon Deven,


It was great chatting oil and stangs with you yesterday. Sorry to hear that your friends on the oil forum are doubting the information provided by you but I will do my best to provide all the necessary information that I am able to. Please feel free to share this information with them.

So as to the composition of our basestocks, we here at Royal Purple use only the finest basestocks that consists solely of Group 4 and 5(PAO/POE basestocks). This is true for all our API, HPS and XPR line up of oils. The differences between the three are our proprietary additive Synerlec and the amount of zinc and phosphorus additive used.

With our API certified line we unfortunately had to remove our proprietary additive Synerlec AND reduce our zinc and phosphorus amount to 800ppm per strict API guidlines. We do our best to make sure all our API oils come very close to the maximum threshold of 800ppm because we think its absolute necessary to have that much if not more in any oil but due to API restrictions our hands are tied.

With our HPS and XPR line, both contain our proprietary additive Synerlec and higher amounts of zinc and phosphorus. The HPS line typically has zinc and phosphorus amounts close to 1200 ppm while the XPR line typically has amounts close to 1800ppm. We also have twice the amount of our proprietary additive Synerlec in the XPR line and is the main solitary reason why it is an expensive product to obtain.

I personally advise people to pay a little extra and get the HPS line over the API line unless the application in which it is used is under warranty and requires certified oil. We here at Royal Purple honestly believe and know that our HPS line has 4 times the film strength of any leading synthetic in the market today and our XPR line to have 8 times the film strength of any leading synthetic in the market today.

The only mineral based oil we have in our line up is our break-in oil which has high amounts of zinc and phosphorus to facilitate the break in of an engine and we use conventional oil to create a little more heat and friction to hone the engine components and seat the rings properly.

Deven, sorry for the long email but hope I clarified all your concerns and the concerns of all your friends at the great oil forum.

Your friend,
Jimmy.



Jim Morrissey
Sr. Technical Service Advisor/Automotive
Royal Purple Inc.

-----------------------------

P.S. A little more about Jimmy. Not only does he work at RP but he's a HUGE mustang fan and knows more about stangs then I can forget. On the net if you google "Jimmysidecarr" you can find post made by him in the svtforum, all mustang forums and videos on youtube. There is an epic oil thread on pelicanparts that he participated that is a fun read. So when he talks I definitely listen!



This is not the official word from Royal Purple. I will give you the opportunity to redact this post or for "Jimmy" to do so. If you are going to post a reply from a "representative" at least get the company name right.

Dave you can think whatever your heart desires. I am not "redact"ing anything.


Good afternoon David,



The formulation of Royal Purple oils is of course proprietary information.

Royal Purple synthetic oils use a proprietary blend of premium synthetic base stocks including Groups IV(PAOs) and Groups V. The only non-synthetic consumer engine oil we offer is our Royal Purple Break-In Oil.



Thanks for choosing Royal Purple and have a great day!



Best Regards,



James Morrissey

Sr. Automotive Technical Support

Again for possible penetration if you are going to post information please post accurate information.

 

[deven]

You got the short version answer. I'm done with this thread.

 

[rockydee]

Typical canned response from RP. Did anyone really think they'd spill the beans? There are many people in the know on this site, selling us something that is no better than its lesser priced competition isn't flying here which is quite obvious. If you like it, and think its worth spending more for then go for it. Trying to sell it to this bunch ain't gonna happening.-RD

 

[dlundblad]

I was at a Walmart Supercenter yesterday and saw RP in the jugs. You guys werent kidding! It really is just under $40.

 

[dave1251]

Originally Posted By: deven
You got the short version answer. I'm done with this thread.


This happens when you fudge the data. You lose creditability.

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: dave1251
Originally Posted By: deven
You got the short version answer. I'm done with this thread.


This happens when you fudge the data. You lose creditability.


How did deven fudge anything? The answer you got is just a shorter version of what he posted. Nothing you posted there contradicts what he posted. Sorry but you are stretching in your never ending quest to convert all to be anti RP like you. Talk about credibility loss. Wow.

Originally Posted By: deven
So as to the composition of our basestocks, we here at Royal Purple use only the finest basestocks that consists solely of Group 4 and 5(PAO/POE basestocks). This is true for all our API, HPS and XPR line up of oils. The differences between the three are our proprietary additive Synerlec and the amount of zinc and phosphorus additive used.


Originally Posted By: dave12511
Royal Purple synthetic oils use a proprietary blend of premium synthetic base stocks including Groups IV(PAOs) and Groups V. The only non-synthetic consumer engine oil we offer is our Royal Purple Break-In Oil.


Seems to be the same answer. One short to a general customer and one a bit more detailed to someone the guy at RP knows better. Both essentially say the same thing.

 

[deven]

Originally Posted By: dave1251
Originally Posted By: deven
You got the short version answer. I'm done with this thread.


This happens when you fudge the data. You lose creditability.

I'm not fudging anything. Just like you I've been on this site for 10 years and have been a good standing member. For you to go out and try to smear my name goes to show your desparation. This is my last response to anything you post on this website be it about royal purple that you know jack about or be it football that you also know jack about.